Rebuilding A GM 8.25 IFS Differential **56K Beware! Pic Heavy**

surfcityZ71

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That one looks similar to the one in my 2006.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/.../Front diff teardown/Frontdiffteardown060.jpg

Frontdiffteardown060.jpg



Something that baffles me is why, after installing the two washers and the ring clip, there appears to be a tremendous amount of end play in the shaft. Is that end play controlled by the limited distance between the differential and the steering knuckle so that it becomes a non-factor? As you can see in your pic, that ring clip does little more than prevent the axle from sliding out of the housing.
 

Mountaidan

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Thanks for the great write up, this may be a summer project for me.

I do have a question on the actuator, I still have the crappy thermal actuator, can you tell me 1) how much it extends and 2) is it possible to push it back in with your hand while engaged?
I can easily push it back in and it only extends an inch or so. I would think that I would not be able to push it back in at all?
Thanks for the help!
 

Bigredmariner

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Thanks for the great write up, this may be a summer project for me.

I do have a question on the actuator, I still have the crappy thermal actuator, can you tell me 1) how much it extends and 2) is it possible to push it back in with your hand while engaged?
I can easily push it back in and it only extends an inch or so. I would think that I would not be able to push it back in at all?
Thanks for the help!

I'm not sure on your actuator, maybe someone else has an idea.


Posted from my iPad via Tapatalk HD.
 

dragracer5256

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interesting, I built one of these 8.25 with one tabed washer (no thrust) in r/s axle 2 years ago. It just came back for noise, apon inspection found tabed washer spun and damaged slightly the housing where washer sits. Looked up info in GM SI and r/s axle supose to have between .002-.020 axle end play. Mine much more so I bought thrust for 9.25 and its too thick, so I think im going to take .050 off end of loose gear(r/s) and get .010 end play. I guess too much end play caused washer to fall out of notches and spin. What do you think?
 

JWSierra

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Just wanted to say thanks for all this great info, did mine last night and I can't even begin to tell you how helpful all this was!
 

Bigredmariner

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interesting, I built one of these 8.25 with one tabed washer (no thrust) in r/s axle 2 years ago. It just came back for noise, apon inspection found tabed washer spun and damaged slightly the housing where washer sits. Looked up info in GM SI and r/s axle supose to have between .002-.020 axle end play. Mine much more so I bought thrust for 9.25 and its too thick, so I think im going to take .050 off end of loose gear(r/s) and get .010 end play. I guess too much end play caused washer to fall out of notches and spin. What do you think?

Sounds like you've got a plan, I'm just having a hard time visualizing the exact problem you're having.

Just wanted to say thanks for all this great info, did mine last night and I can't even begin to tell you how helpful all this was!

You're welcome and glad that it was of some help to you. :cheers:
 

machadosl

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Hi, does anyone knows a site where I can buy and have the differential lock tab shipped to Brazil? The one on the right side of the differential has broken.
 

black79ta

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well I am in the middle of doing mine...an AWD which appears to be simpler than the 4WD units discussed here. dont have the actuator and the tabbed washers since my long axle tube is completely hollow...but I have 2 broken adjuster tabs. I will check with one parts house, but then I am gong to have to make them if I am gong to get this done tomorrow. I have taken a bunch of pictures, wondering if I should post them up. not wanting to derail Bigredmariner's fine thread..if anyone has made the tabs please chime in.. willl post up date tomorrow
 

black79ta

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I ended up buying the tabs. I have the case put together and the backlash is perfect at .008, mesh pattern is perfect(used gears). the only thing giving me heartburn is when I put the crush sleeve in, I mis interpreted all of my info sources and put the seal in before I crushed the seal. then when I crushed it I think I might have gone a bit too far, the bearings preloaded all of a sudden -like at the end. I had 28 in-lbs of torque. I guess it is okay, being it is between the 15-30 in-lbs. my neighbor is a mechanic and I will ask him. final rotating torque with backlash and carrier bearing preload is about 40 in-lbs. I now have to pull it apart and seal the case. great thread, Thanks Bigredmariner
 

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