I am going to try to cover the basics on rebuilding the front differential in a GM truck with the 8.25" IFS differential. I am doing a gear change but also a full rebuild while I have it apart. Parts you'll need: Ring & Pinion Gear set, Master Install Kit, lock tabs (2)- (GM PN - 15588312) Make sure to download the pdf attachment at the bottom of this post, it contains all torque specs you'll need and a few notes that I have found while doing this myself. Tools needed: General hand tools, bearing pullers, slide hammer, shop press, dial indicator with magnetic base, inch pound bar type torque wrench, special spanner wrench: http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5227 To start off place your diff over a 5 gallon bucket and drain the gear oil from it. Now place the diff up on a work bench, or the floor if it won't fit on your bench. Stand the diff up with the short shaft down and remove the bolts around the case. Remove the electric motor actuator by unscrewing then set aside. Now lay the diff over on it's side and place a slide hammer on the axle flange. Give it a few good wraps and the casing should split apart. With the case split in two, flip the section over with the short shaft pointing up. Lift the case up and the carrier may fall out. If not, which was my case, use your slide hammer on the axle flange and give it a few tugs up. This should lift the case free of the carrier. Flip the case over and using the handle of a ball pein hammer tap the stub axle out of the housing. The stub axle was held into the carrier by a small circlip, look down in the spline area of the carrier and you should see it in a groove. Using a long punch knock the stub axle seal out. This will give you access to the stub axle bearing, lock tab, adjuster and carrier bearing. Using a screwdriver or chisel pry the lock tab up enough to be free. Flip the case over and drive out the axle bearing with a punch. Now this is where my experience ( or lack of it) will help you. The adjusters should be driven out, towards the inside of the case. Using a brass drift hammer them out evenly. This will also allow you to replace the lock tabs. If the carrier bearing races have fallen out before you drive out the adjusters, take a measurement and write it down. This will help for setup down the road. How not to do it, but it won't hurt to do it this way. Just a few unnecessary steps is all. **I should have left the two pieces screwed together before driving them out. Learn from my mistakes** Remove the pinion nut and drive the pinion out. Leave the nut screwed on a few threads until the yoke turns loose of the splines, then remove the nut and yoke. Finish driving the pinion out. Remove the pinion seal and outer bearing. For ease of removal, using a chisel fold over a portion of the lip of the seal. Then stick a pry bar in and roll the seal out, catching the bearing as the seal comes out. Using a long punch from the outside, drive the inner pinion bearing race out. Flip the case over and drive out the outer pinion bearing race. Remove the old ring gear from the carrier and remember these are left handed bolts. Using a gear puller remove the carrier bearings. I pulled the inner pinion bearing off to measure the factory shim, this gave me a starting point for the new gear set.