Darth Bama
Zombie Control Specialist
They look damn good! 
Painting Interior Plastic
- Thread starter nubuilder
- Start date
KillaF150
I'm Ron Burgundy?
nubuilder
Why buy new when you can restore?
A few things I learned/noticed while doing this.
-Sand anywhere and everywhere that you can see with the part off. Even if you don't think you'll see it, you might.
-Minimum of 3 coats of all the products used (for me and also for good coverage).
-Get the parts up off the floor so you can paint the edges better.
-Make sure you get the edges good!! They're the hardest part. Give them a few extra shots of paint.
-When sanding with 600 grit (or any grit) on the filler primer, DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE PAPER. It will go through anything faster than you can imagine. Just lightly dragging the paper over will make the surface smooth.
-Be careful sanding edges. Too much pressure and the high points will come right through.
If you're going to sand between paint (color) coats, put on more coats. (I didn't sand between, but I'm guessing you'll need at least 5 coats to get full coverage)
Like everyone says, prep is crucial. Sandpaper is your best friend. Use it. 400 is enough. It will leave scratches, but you want them and you can't see them once painted anyways.
-Sand anywhere and everywhere that you can see with the part off. Even if you don't think you'll see it, you might.
-Minimum of 3 coats of all the products used (for me and also for good coverage).
-Get the parts up off the floor so you can paint the edges better.
-Make sure you get the edges good!! They're the hardest part. Give them a few extra shots of paint.
-When sanding with 600 grit (or any grit) on the filler primer, DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE PAPER. It will go through anything faster than you can imagine. Just lightly dragging the paper over will make the surface smooth.
-Be careful sanding edges. Too much pressure and the high points will come right through.
If you're going to sand between paint (color) coats, put on more coats. (I didn't sand between, but I'm guessing you'll need at least 5 coats to get full coverage)
Like everyone says, prep is crucial. Sandpaper is your best friend. Use it. 400 is enough. It will leave scratches, but you want them and you can't see them once painted anyways.
Huckleberry
Full Access Member
I like to wet sand between the coats and also before I clear the parts. I also like to hang the parts if possible.
The parts you've done so far look really good. I don't think you'll have any problems with them holding up.
The parts you've done so far look really good. I don't think you'll have any problems with them holding up.
nubuilder
Why buy new when you can restore?
Thanks for the tip. I never though of it since they weren't seen from the back, but none the less, good idea for future parts.
Now I just need to come up with a way to get them off without scratching them. A flat-blade screwdriver is too thick. Might try a jeweler's screwdriver (ya know, the tiny set of like 6)?
So I decided that after work tonight I would start sanding the dash trim bezel. Well, 100 grit isn't cutting it. Apparently the part that is the color of the interior is actually painted too. So when I sand it, it goes back to black, not gray. Also, the black parts seem to want to go to gray and not black. I haven't totally figure out what the heck GM did when they made them, but I'm sure I'll uncover the secret soon enough.
Next up: buy some 80 or even 60 grit sand paper tomorrow and try that.
Now I just need to come up with a way to get them off without scratching them. A flat-blade screwdriver is too thick. Might try a jeweler's screwdriver (ya know, the tiny set of like 6)?
So I decided that after work tonight I would start sanding the dash trim bezel. Well, 100 grit isn't cutting it. Apparently the part that is the color of the interior is actually painted too. So when I sand it, it goes back to black, not gray. Also, the black parts seem to want to go to gray and not black. I haven't totally figure out what the heck GM did when they made them, but I'm sure I'll uncover the secret soon enough.
Next up: buy some 80 or even 60 grit sand paper tomorrow and try that.
64shortbed
TMC 2013 NASCAR CHAMPION,
lookin good! i didnt sand mine down cause with the colors i chose ( cast aluminum and cast iron) i thought they looked better with the texture. but with the color you used i like the smoother look. keep up the good work.
i didnt sand mine down cause with the colors i chose ( cast aluminum and cast iron) i thought they looked better with the texture. but with the color you used i like the smoother look. keep up the good work.
nubuilder
Why buy new when you can restore?
Well, I've started sanding the dash trim bezel. Man, this thing is a bi*** to sand! I don't know if the plastic is just that much harder or what, but I've been at it an hour with 60 grit and I'm not even half way done.
I'm not going to be able to get all the grain out, but the filler primer will help anyways. I'm hoping to get it all sanded tonight so I can possibly prime it tomorrow morning.
I'm not going to be able to get all the grain out, but the filler primer will help anyways. I'm hoping to get it all sanded tonight so I can possibly prime it tomorrow morning.
nubuilder
Why buy new when you can restore?
Well, I didn't get the dash trim bezel all sanded today. I ended up helping a friend pull a SBC 400 and Turbo 350 out of a '73 Monte Carlo that he's parting out.
I've decided not to sand the black area of the bezel. The paint is just too hard to get off. It continuousely clogs up the sand paper (60 grit), but it does come off by flicking the paper. The black area is pretty smooth anyways and the filler primer will take care of the minor defects.
I'm going to start tomorrow (or today) by sanding the tan (or gray, blue, or red area) with 100 grit and keep moving on it. I won't be painting since we're supposed to get up to 94 tomorrow.
I've decided not to sand the black area of the bezel. The paint is just too hard to get off. It continuousely clogs up the sand paper (60 grit), but it does come off by flicking the paper. The black area is pretty smooth anyways and the filler primer will take care of the minor defects.
I'm going to start tomorrow (or today) by sanding the tan (or gray, blue, or red area) with 100 grit and keep moving on it. I won't be painting since we're supposed to get up to 94 tomorrow.
nubuilder
Why buy new when you can restore?
I finally got the bezel sanded down. I think I have about 3 to 4 hours into sanding it. I started with 60 grit and moved to 100, 150, 220, and wet sanded with 400. I ended up sanding the black area. I only used 220 and wet sanded with 400 on it. This tactic seemed to work very good. I didn't use a lot of pressure at all and flicked out the 220 often. I found that making large movements, going slow, and not putting pressure on a small area worked the best. This kept the plastic from getting hot and melting onto the sand paper. It is smooth, but you can still see some of the original grain and color. I'm not worried about it since I'm using filler primer. Overall I couldn't be happier on how it turned out. I'll post some pics tonight of how it sits now.
Now that is is all sanded, I'd like to cut a few holes in it for switches and a hole for an 1/8 inch headphone jack (my CD player has and AUX input on the back of it so I need a front-mount one). I have no idea right now what the switches will be used for, but I'd rather cut and put them in now before I paint for future use. I'm thinking green rocker switches with or without a back light. I'll see what I can find.
Now that is is all sanded, I'd like to cut a few holes in it for switches and a hole for an 1/8 inch headphone jack (my CD player has and AUX input on the back of it so I need a front-mount one). I have no idea right now what the switches will be used for, but I'd rather cut and put them in now before I paint for future use. I'm thinking green rocker switches with or without a back light. I'll see what I can find.
KillaF150
I'm Ron Burgundy?
