P0449-How To Replace Evap. Vent Solenoid

[CJ Hungus]

IT Fixed my issues! Great Write up coming at you from the Great wide north.. Good thing too you had this, nearest dealer to me is 1 winter and a whole ICE road away! With the warm weather I was looking at having to do this next year! Now, I got no issues! Was able to have the parts flown in! Awesome!

Glad could help you out.

 

[GMCSIERRA1500]

I have no schematic, but if you watch that video that I just added to the OP it may help you to use a test light on the connectors.

Also, did you reset the code and it came back? Or did it just never clear?

If you didn't clear it, it will take several drive cycles to clear on it's own. You can clear it by removing the negative of the battery for about 5 or 10 minutes, or use a code reader.

BTW: I found a pic of this on the AC Delco USA site. Just enter the number and the Pig tail described will show up.

 

[NoLife1980]

For me, no. The purge valve is in a tight placed on a bracket between the bed and the cab of the truck. The only thing that came off relatively easy was the wiring harness. The hose has an immediate 90 degree angle on it and my quick connect on this hose was too brittle to come off easily. I could unbolt the braket from the truck frame but couldn't slide the bracket off - again brittle plastic. All of this is complicated by the fact that you're working at an arms length with no leverage and most of the time, if you can get your hand on it you can't see what you're doing, and vice versa, with very little room to manuever any parts. For me, removing the bolts from the truck bed afforded me just enough room to maneuver. Still, in the end, I got so disgusted with the hose, that I just cut it so I could get the part out and it was only then that I could see exactly what the part looked like.

Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts a couple days before you plan to remove the bed. The 4 bolts on the front are easy to get too. The four on the back are somewhat hidden and you'll need a socket extension to reach through the framing to get to them.

DON'T FORGET: to remove your wiring harness for the tail lights (under the rear bumper just to the driver side of center)
AND: loosen your gas tank neck ( right at the gas cap). two torx screws and one of those plastic snap in "bolts"
AND: remove your gas tank ground from the frame (small wire runs from the gas tank neck to the bracket that the front bolt of the bed is attached to).

If you can get a couple guys to help you completely lift the bed off, I'm sure this would simplify the whole process, and leave time for pizza and beer when the job is done.
Good luck, NOLIFE1980

Hello OLDZ71 and rest of you in this forum. Well I did it replace this purge valve and solenoid in exactly 22 minutes and with out removing a thing from my 2003 Silverado 1500 Z71 extended cap. I used two long needle nose players and two tiny in cone shape needle pins (approximately from .060 to .125 of the inch in the diameter) for removing the house clamps. I am toolmaker and I make those pins my self in work. Wasn’t easy to replace this part but it is doable and you have to be patient. I swear in three languages while doing this but helps.
Part AC Delco 214-1091 $17.00
Standard Shipping $3.48
Total cost $20.48 and tons of satisfactions and even more beers. Light on dash board is gone, and ready for state inspection next month.
Thank you OLDZ71
NoLife
Next thing on the line is replace Leaf Spring Rear Shackles they just snap other day. This truck keeps me occupy

 

[afsgt]

Thanks guys for all the information and posting the video. Easy fix for my 2007 GMC Sierra. The check engine light cleared after a few drives. Thanks again.

 

[dbZ71]

Well I finally replaced installed the Solenoid kit (Delco #214-2082) on my 2005 Chevy Z71, this past weekend. I had to disconnect the battery to reset the Check Engine Light, but so far so good. It hasn’t come back on. Thanks for all the info, especially where to buy the part (Amazon- $60.00). After the part arrived, I saw one go for ~$30 on eBay, but just about everyone else is selling them for over $70.

 

[dbZ71]

I'm surprised at how much these parts move around on different trucks. Mine is an '05 6.5ft bed Extended Cab 5.3L. Vent solenoid was on the tail end of the gas tank, easily accessible, Purge solenoid was up on the top of the engine under the plastic cover, again easy to replace.

My Chevy is a 2005 w/Extended cab (5.3L) and my Solenoid was on the front end of the gas tank. It was easy for me to reach, plus I only needed ~5' of hose to route the filter box above the transmission.

 

[Dartboy]

Well that's thoroughly confusing. I wonder if they put one of our fuel tanks in backwards? Yours is a Silverado too, right?

 

[Bigredmariner]

I have read about them being in a bunch of different places, in front, behind, beside the tank. I just don't know enough to say exactly where each specific model stick them. They are all around the gas tank though.

 

[Dartboy]

They wander around a lot depending on bodystyle, but you'd think they would put it in the same place on two all but identical trucks.

 

[OSUCowboy27]

2004 Chevy Suburban 1500 4WD 118,000 miles


While researching the dreaded p0449, I discovered this very informative thread but could not find an answer for my problem.

The CEL has been on for 2 years and 30,000 miles. The codes are p0449 and occasionally p0446. It started after the fuel nozzle at the quick stop did not shut off and the tank was completely filled. I tried changing the gas cap, but that did not work. I removed the solenoid, applied 12 volts, and the solenoid functioned perfectly. It was also fairly clean. I checked the voltage between the orange wire and the other wire and the reading was 1.4 volts with the key on. Should I be checking the voltage from the orange wire to ground instead? Also, since the solenoid did function, could it be the problem? Would checking the resistance tell me anything? Any help and insight is greatly appreciated.