Turbo 350 trans probs HELP

PenguinLTZ

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Gotcha.

Well.

If that is truly the HP and torque figure for your engine, then you just need to get your wallet out, and have a seriously stout transmission built for your truck.
 

Chevytime94

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Hahah yeah thatll be great hahah hey taks for all the posts n replys gave me some missing pices to this story ha..... thanks yall
 

hotrodpc

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Uhhhhhhhh, I'd have to do some research to figure out exactly what someone did wrong, but none of the above is wrong and the trans might very well be just fine if it's not to late. But, it's going to have to come out and apart and put back together right.

So who built this trans? Is this a lock up Th350 or a Non Lock Up Th350? Is it possible someone used some Lock Up parts in a Non Lock Up unit?

Not sure how much hp your're running. I've run 600hp with a Th350 no problems and it held up fine for a year til I broke the input shaft.

It is important to know who built it and what they did to it. I'm a bit rusty on these for now, but it could be something like a pressure regulator valve was installed backwards, the wrong hole in the pump may have been blocked off for dual feeding, or something of this nature. Something is causing to high of a line pressure and it's literally blowing the seals out of the trans.
 

hotrodpc

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If you decide to build one yourself, here's a couple threads that will help you on another one of Fully Driven's forums.

Turbo 350 Disassembly - GM Square Body - 1973 - 1987 GM Truck Forum Th350 Disassembly

Turbo 350 Build - GM Square Body - 1973 - 1987 GM Truck Forum Th350 Build

If you want to be sure you have that problem solved on that other unit and know that you corrected the issue, lose that pump and valve body then you'll know you have the problem solved and start with a different OE stock valve body and pump, cuz the problem is in one of those 2.

If you want it to hold up to some abuse, upgrade the intermediate drum and sprag to a dogbone wedge element sprag instead of roller sprag w hardened race, and a hardened input shaft.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-350-T...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a2f4eb62e&vxp=mtr

If you don't want get into drilling holes and blocking ports in the pump and in the case, just get a B&M Shift Improver kit and drill 2 holes in the supplied seperator plate in the shown locations with the supplied drill bit, and install the supplied transfer plate for dual feeding and you'll have neck snapping firm shifts. I do all that stuff manually without the kit, but the shift improver kit just does it a different way to where you can uninstall it and go back to stock if you want, or even tame down to Stage 1 RV type shift instead of Stage 2 Street/Strip shift.
 
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PenguinLTZ

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Good info, hot rod! He needs a beast for that serious high horsepower engine
 

hotrodpc

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Th350's never had a problem breaking sunshells so a Beast wasn't made for the Th350. The biggest thing and #1 failure on the Th350 is the intermediate race gear breaking. You can get a hardened race relatively cheap, but get a good one, not a China made one. The stronger race will help the roller clutch (sprag) hold better and help keep it together, but I still prefer the upgraded drum and dogbone sprag. I broke several roller clutches in a Th350 racing. Finally I upgraded the drum and sprag and that problem was fixed for good. Then I snapped 2 input shafts and finally upgraded that to a hardened shaft. After that, no more breaking the Th350 with just under 600hp and a well built 3000 stall converter in a 4000lb truck with 4.56 rear gears.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH350-Outer...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5323dad2&vxp=mtr

You're right if he was running a 700r4 the Beast. There are to many things to list to upgrade a 700r4 to withstand that kind of horsepower, like the beast sunshell, sleeving the input drum and hardened shafts and blah blah blah and it still will not be strong as a Th350 or Th400 can be.

Even on very basic 700r4 builds, I like to do the beast sunshell, vette servo, wider 2/4 band, and a commercial Alto 3/4 clutch pack. That cures MOST of the most common problems and weaknesses for the stocker builds.

Some like to use the Raysbestos Z pack for the 3/4 clutch too as upgrade instead of the Alto Commercial Pack, and I'll put it in if they insist on it, but being that the real problem with the 3/4 clutch pack is overheating and coning of the clutches and steels, it doesn't make alot of sense to me to use even more 1 sides clutches that are even thinner yet and by theory you'd think they'd cone even quicker. But, the trick is keeping the heat down in the drum and that could be the purpose of the Z pack. I do know several that have had great luck with it.
 
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66nova

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Some great info for you here. Keep us informed how it turns out.


Where are the pics? We are picture whores here!
 

Chevytime94

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Thats alot of great info thanks alot i think im gonna build the trans my self with the help of manuals and a buddy thats a trans mech but the info on what parts i should upgrade to handel the hp n torque the trucks gonna get completley redone and be a "sleeper" haha
 

CJ Hungus

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Thats alot of great info thanks alot i think im gonna build the trans my self with the help of manuals and a buddy thats a trans mech but the info on what parts i should upgrade to handel the hp n torque the trucks gonna get completley redone and be a "sleeper" haha
:worthless:
 

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