Timing...

[63chevystepside]

I'm going to ask just to be nosey i guess. It acts like its just missing out something bad right? You have check and rechecked plugs wires timming the best you can while its missing right? Its not back firing anymore not poping any more?

Now not tellong you what to do but just telling you what i did when my 350 was acting like that. It was missing something bad. Id put it in gear and the whole truck would act like it was trying to buck me out. i was running a quadra jet. I could not fine a thing wrong with anything ( plugs, plug wires, timming didnt help) I called my cousin who is a machanic by trade he told me to find a differant carb and try it. I talked to a buddy in town borrowed a edelbrock 600 he had on a shelf. Slaped that baby on hooked every thing up. Turn the key she ran like a champ. Gave my friend $100 for it and have not had any trouble since.

Now the other day i got stupid a little and when i put carb on i didnt adjust my kick down for the th350 tranny and i got the kick down stuck and it would idle ok but put it in gear and hold on it would shake rattle and roll. I adjusted the kick down right and had no problems at all runs great kick down work etc...

So i guess even though you have had the carb checked and it may be new. You may have a piece of somthing stuck in a jet or something. Slap a differant one on and try it. Im just saying you'd be surprised.

I hear ya. Iv tried another carb. had did the same thing. While doing the plugs i noticed a fuel leak. Thought it was the back bowls not snug. Well it turns out my carb guy took off the fuel line that goes to the bowels. Looks like he had crossed threaded the back one an it was leaking. Got plugs back in and wires on. Going to check out that fuel line now. When i fix that and if it is not the issue then i try checking that the wires are good like one of the guys mentioned above.

 

[63chevystepside]

Well it is not any better. Fixed the fuel leak. Switched dist. caps. I thought it had quite popping out the exhaust and backfireing out carb but still doing it. Other than that an it being doggee it is fine

 

[PenguinLTZ]

So, how's the cam?

 

[63chevystepside]

So, how's the cam?

I am hoping thats not the issue. It is the second one. First one a lifter and its bore flattened it. It does'nt seem to back fire up through carb very much almost never. At reving it up to about 4000 rpms im hearing poping out the exhaust. I did check an all plug wires are getting fire through them. Can'nt seem to find any vacum leak either. Has steady vacum at idle and reving. Im trying to exhaust every option before tearing it apart. Then if it is the cam maybe its the valves two...That back bowel on the carb. might still be sucking in air?

 

[PenguinLTZ]

Dude. Second one?

I would be yanking the valve cover and checking the hole that failed, right now.

 

[63chevystepside]

Dude. Second one?

I would be yanking the valve cover and checking the hole that failed, right now.

Yes second one. I had to pull the engine back out and tear it down to get that lifter out. It mushroomed up and flattened out that cam. It was making a bad ticking then. My builder honed it and their was no issues on reinstalling new lifters. Their is no ticking now. I have noticed that with the valves at half a turn it popped out exhaust at idle. I then did a 3/4 and it seemed to get less. It is at one full turn now and the popping is not at idle but at about 4000rpms. Should i go 1 1/2 turn an see what it does? they are antipump lifters. I am using the right oil. It popping like that makes me think the valves are'nt closing. It has to be the cam again...Im about ready to just put a rv cam and stock lifters an forget it. After all this small stuff iv been doing it seems better but not like it should. It was fine before when i had exhaust done.

 

[PenguinLTZ]

I have never had success with damaged lifter bores. Especially if someone tried to yank a mushroomed one out of the hole from the top.

I have read of many people who claim great success with honing them. I have never been lucky.

Never again, will I attempt it. I have dealt with 4 of my own smallblocks with bad lifter bores, and a few customers/friends.

I smelled this one in the beginning (see post 22), and I would at least check it. If you are saying that you are already a full 1/2 turn past the others, I would be worried.

 

[63chevystepside]

I have never had success with damaged lifter bores. Especially if someone tried to yank a mushroomed one out of the hole from the top.

I have read of many people who claim great success with honing them. I have never been lucky.

Never again, will I attempt it. I have dealt with 4 of my own smallblocks with bad lifter bores, and a few customers/friends.

I smelled this one in the beginning (see post 22), and I would at least check it. If you are saying that you are already a full 1/2 turn past the others, I would be worried.

All valves not just the one that had the issue are 1 full turn from preload. I could'nt take that bad lifter out the top because it was mushroomed up by the cam. Thats why i had to yank the engine out and tear it back down. Dropped the oil pan and took out the cam and taped it out. Then took whole block to my builder for the honing. At a half a turn on all of them i still get the rockers clicking alittle. My guess at this point is the cam is to big. 501 lift, shaved 8 thou heads, spings good up to 510 lift. My builder just told me not to go over a 510 lift cam. I don't know...im just going to walk away from it for alittle bit.

 

[PenguinLTZ]

I gotcha now. Well, that sounds more promising. I misunderstood, and thought you only had a few that were run down tighter.

Let us know what ya find

 

[63chevystepside]

If it was a valve not closing i would think it would show itself at idle and or when its rev up with a vacum gauge hooked up. Thats why im not sure what it is...It just seems the farther i adjust the valves down it starts going away. I did'nt want to go any more than a full turn down.