Rebuilding A GM 8.25 IFS Differential **56K Beware! Pic Heavy**

zoomequipd

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internal bearing puller

What tool (manufactor and part number?) did you use to pull that super small bearing in the axle stub? I'm having a hard time finding a pilot bearing puller or blind bearing puller that is small enough to get on the inside of that bearing.
 

Smacananny

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I just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I attempted this this past weekend, front and rear 4.88s. I had never installed any gear sets before, the idea wasnt too complicated but i ran into quite a few issues that held up progress.

One thing i did is drianed both axles then filled them with diesel fuel. Then i drove it around the parking lot for 5 minutes to help clean the Red Line Heavy Shockproof oil i had it in. I wasnt worried about bearings since i was replacing them all.

When i opened the rear up i could move the carrier left to right 1/4" with it bolted in. I could rotate the pinion about 1/8 of a turn before engaing the ring gear. All of the bearing rollers and races were the texture of asphalt.

I couldnt get a good wear pattern at all on the rear axle, pinion was too deep but after some searching by myabe .006" on a similar gear/setup pattern i saw online. I tried every shim combination i had and even measured the pinion bearing height vs the new one (i machined the center from one) and found the checking bearing .008" taller and shimmed accordingly when i installed the final bearing. i ended up with .009" backlash which gave me a better pattern. I am using USA Standard gears which i understand are yukons that didnt make QC anyway so i figured it was the best i could do.

The front axle i tried for 2 hours to get the short stub axle out. I tried every combination of assembly, penetration oil, 10lb slide hammer, rubber mallet, 4lb hammer etc to get it removed. I even took it to a shop to get the axle out. They tried for an hour, then finally got it out with a slide hammer by wrapping a strap around the hammer slide and pulling as fast as they could.

After all that the front was easier than the rear. I got new locking tabs form GM PN 15588312 about $1.40 from the dealer, after reading the horror stories about them breaking, i put blue thread locked the threads of the adjusters, not sure if it will hold or make a difference but i dont think it could hurt it. I did have trouble crushing the crush sleeve on the front, the rear went fine, i used an impact, the front, i could not get it to crush. I had to crank my compressor up to 135psi and i have an air cat 1150 (supposedly 975ft lbs tightening at 120psi) to finally get it to crush. I removed the pinion to install the seal (i saw it suggested to get roating torque without seal first), and when i removed the pinion all of the rollers and cage fell out of it. It was a Koyo bearing, none of the race was dented or anything. I ordered a timken, and installed in place. I had a great wear pattern on the front, then i installed the new bearing and it went a few thousands deeper. I didnt worry about it too much, i was already 30+ hours into this job.

For the rear 4.88 gears i had to grind one tooth of the ring gear to get the cross pin back in.

I cleaned everything with brake clean, all new bearings housing etc. I replaced the axle tube bearings and seals. I filled the rear with oil, rotated it around 20 times then drained it since i had it apart 12+ times and im sure it got some dust and dirty in areas i couldnt clean out. I also rotated the front and rear pinion, and eaxl axle 50+ times in each direction once filled to ensure all bearings were oil before anything was put under load.

the front stayed clean and i had it apart maybe 5 times.

I bought the yukon tool though i dont think that you need it. I just kep loosening the case and making adjustments with my fingers until i had the correct backlash and preload. I sealed the case with the suggest 1184 (1194 has been replacedby 1184) and thats come good stuff. Says it's ready for gear oil in 20 minutes.

I filled both front and rear with just dino 80w90 oil for now. I will drain in 500 miles and put in some red line, a mixture of 75w90 and heavy shockproof i think.

There is a faint whine at cruise around 55mph when the gears warm up, Wehn cold i cant hear anything at all when it warms up its a faint whine but nothing bad at all, nothing like it was or anything that bothers me too much. I figured with a less than ideal gear pattern it would be a littel noisy, its actually pretty quiet, 4,88s are low gear anyway so i think they'd make a little more noise. I think with some run time and heavy shockproof the noise will go away. i only put maybe 1,000 miles a year on this (2001 suburban) and i tow my bobcat maybe 100 miles locally throughout the year. I think it will be ok.

With the rear gear i ended up leaving the pinion deep, any of the other adjustments put the pinion high on the tooth top land, right now its about 2/3 down towards the crown, and centered for the most part heel to toe, maybe a little towards the toe on both axles. There is a definitely line in the root on the rear but its not far down in it, i couldnt get it to go away without the pattern being on the top land of the gear so i just let it be.

I'll let you guys know if it blows up haha. I think it'll be ok, i'd rather the pinion be deep than shallow anyway.

thanks again for this awesome write up!
 
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machadosl

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Very good topic, thank very much. I am planning to replace the bearings of the front differential as soon as the bearings arrive. I hope not having problems in disassembling it and also post some photos of the service.
Thanks
 

surfcityZ71

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Well, i took out the Differential and attached the axle tube and installed this weekend, sounded good saturday night and sunday morning. My wife took it out of town, and says its making a noise. I took a test drive this morning and there is a sound i'm not sure what yet. When i come to a stop its more of a winding down sound, almost like tires (could be, but i didnt' here this the day before) , maybe more mechanical. I plan to test drive again tonight. It's probably nothing, but i wonder is putting the new diff in might of awaken another problem, like CV joints? I did not replace the needle, i know..I Know.....there was only one i could see, and it looked and felt fine. Also when i poped the tube/axle out with a rubber mallet i assumed the snap ring stayed in the groove, because it was not on the shaft. When I put the shaft in, it did stop, and i had to smack it back in. Any thought????


You raise an interesting point that I think I can shed at least a little light on. I am in the process of replacing the right front axle seal on my 2004 Tahoe Z71. In doing so, I relied on different sources that said I could simply drive the axle out of the extension housing, replace the seal and reinstall. Great. Well, that's not what I experienced. Why? Because my right axle is held in by a ring clip that MUST BE RELEASED FROM THE AXLE BEFORE THE AXLE WILL SLIDE OUT OF THE TUBE. I drove my axle out with brute force and the ring clip damaged the thrust washer and tabbed washer that prevented the axle from sliding out. See below. This is what I found inside the extension housing (the damaged washers are in upside down in the pic. the tabbed washer seats into the grooves and the flat washer goes on top of it) after I beat the hell out of the axle to get it to release:



DSCF7076 by rzgkane, on Flickr


There seems to be two types of right axle setups in these vehicles. Making matters more complicated is the fact that the GM parts system, using my VIN, thinks my truck has a different setup than it does. To illustrate, look at the images below. The top image (which I believe is of a 9.25 axle) is exactly what my setup looks like. The bottom image is what GM says is in my Z71 and what most other owners have found inside their 8.25 front diffs.


Notice that there are two washers (#5 and #6) behind the axle's retaining ring clip (#7)? Well, if you drive the axle out using force, those two washers will become damaged and will fall out of place. If you simply slide the axle back in after replacing the seal and you think you are done, wrong, those washers (and maybe even the ring clip) will be bouncing around inside the extension tube. Luckily, the ring clip stayed on the axle and prevented me from being able to slide the axle out past the outer bearing. That forced me to remove the extension housing and discover the damage inside. You probably were not so lucky.



2004 Tahoe Z71 Front Axle Housing by rzgkane, on Flickr

The image below is what GM thinks is in my truck. Notice the gear #6? That does not exist in my vehicle. Numbers 6 and 8 are a one piece unit in my truck and are depicted as # 8 in the top image. That gear (#6) is what the axle's locking ring sits in and can be released by simply prying the axle out. The locking ring usually stays inside the gear and re-engages the axle when the axle is tapped back in. Nice for folks with that setup.






Why is the GM parts system confused? I don't know. But the parts guy at my local dealer looked at the extension housing that came off my truck (I am the original owner and no work has ever been done to the front diff) and noted that it had "K3" cast into it. He says that K3 is consistent with a 1 ton truck, not the 1/2 ton that a Tahoe is. Hmm. Crazy. But facts are facts. My 2004 Z71 has different insides than what most other 8.25 diffs have and I suspect others out there have the same issue.


Moral to the story? If you have a 2004 Tahoe Z71, I suggest you remove the extension housing before trying to drive the axle out of the tube. You don't know what's inside until you get in there.


Hope this helps someone.
 
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Zembonez

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Thanks for your input!

:tmc:
 

Bigredmariner

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That one looks similar to the one in my 2006.

http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww224/bigredmariner/Truck%20repairs/Front%20Diff/Front%20diff%20teardown/Frontdiffteardown060.jpg

Frontdiffteardown060.jpg
 

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