Project: Never Finished- 04 Silverado
- Thread starter 04SilveradoMykk
- Start date
04SilveradoMykk
Full Access Member
Some updates:
I hurt the bed on a tree. Pulled it off and was driving bedless for a couple of years. I wanted to try something different, so I located an 80's stepside bed, bolted it down, wired in some truck LED's and shot it in black:
I then developed a hell of a trans leak, so I decided to pull the engine and freshen it up and fix the trans leak. I thought the leak was a front pump seal. It turned out to be a cracked weld on the torque converter at the snout.
The new heads are Pro-comp aluminum 210cc/58c chamber, angle plugs. I opted for a set of budget castings because I wanted to try a few internet myths. Somender Singh grooves and combustion chamber dimpling:
I'm estimating a 61-62cc chamber after the grooves and dimples, with an .026" gasket & .004" piston to deck height it will put static compression around 11:1 and a .030" quench.
Retired the chinese copy intake for the real deal:
Cleaned up & painted the engine compartment. Removed unused wiring and hid as much of the remaining wiring as possible.
The cowl hood was hurt/dented, so I'll run the tall velocity stack/aircleaner without a hood for a while before ordering a cervini ram air hood
The video makes the geardrive sound weird, it's not nearly as obnoxious as it sounds here:
[YT]tjIXf4_6MYc[/YT]
[YT]_z9NY8QvlkY[/YT]
I hurt the bed on a tree. Pulled it off and was driving bedless for a couple of years. I wanted to try something different, so I located an 80's stepside bed, bolted it down, wired in some truck LED's and shot it in black:
I then developed a hell of a trans leak, so I decided to pull the engine and freshen it up and fix the trans leak. I thought the leak was a front pump seal. It turned out to be a cracked weld on the torque converter at the snout.
The new heads are Pro-comp aluminum 210cc/58c chamber, angle plugs. I opted for a set of budget castings because I wanted to try a few internet myths. Somender Singh grooves and combustion chamber dimpling:
I'm estimating a 61-62cc chamber after the grooves and dimples, with an .026" gasket & .004" piston to deck height it will put static compression around 11:1 and a .030" quench.
Retired the chinese copy intake for the real deal:
Cleaned up & painted the engine compartment. Removed unused wiring and hid as much of the remaining wiring as possible.
The cowl hood was hurt/dented, so I'll run the tall velocity stack/aircleaner without a hood for a while before ordering a cervini ram air hood
The video makes the geardrive sound weird, it's not nearly as obnoxious as it sounds here:
[YT]tjIXf4_6MYc[/YT]
[YT]_z9NY8QvlkY[/YT]
Last edited:
Sweet! Not sure how I missed the original post on this back in 2009. 
NMRam
Still Here Because I'm Not There
Very Cool! 
Looks & sounds very sexy!
04SilveradoMykk
Full Access Member
I blew up the transmission on the test drive:
Now it's back together. On the road and feels better then ever. It feels like it's got double the torque and the high rev feels better too.
The torque and throttle response was so impressive I installed a 2" open spacer under the 1" tapered spacer to help raise the torque curve higher in the rev.
The velocity stack was rattling on the carb so I made a grommet from vacuum tubing. Also cut the tail pipes off, sounds way better. Deeper, louder, boomier and all around much better.
While adjusting the timing I noticed the vacuum advance diaphragm blew and was not only not adding any timing it wasn't even close to holding any vacuum. I've got it set with 16 initial and 38 max. Really I should put in a bigger dist bushing for a smaller mechanical add with more initial, closer to 20-22. I just fear of burning up another starter motor with that much load.
Now it's back together. On the road and feels better then ever. It feels like it's got double the torque and the high rev feels better too.
The torque and throttle response was so impressive I installed a 2" open spacer under the 1" tapered spacer to help raise the torque curve higher in the rev.
The velocity stack was rattling on the carb so I made a grommet from vacuum tubing. Also cut the tail pipes off, sounds way better. Deeper, louder, boomier and all around much better.
While adjusting the timing I noticed the vacuum advance diaphragm blew and was not only not adding any timing it wasn't even close to holding any vacuum. I've got it set with 16 initial and 38 max. Really I should put in a bigger dist bushing for a smaller mechanical add with more initial, closer to 20-22. I just fear of burning up another starter motor with that much load.
04SilveradoMykk
Full Access Member
Back on the road and is my daily driver. I've plugged in a wideband O2 and have started down the long road that is dialing in AFR's.
With the carb in stock settings it had an ugly rich cruise and scary lean power/high rev. As to be expected with an oversized carburetor for the application.
The Mighty Demon is now a hybrid between the Mighty Demon 750cfm main body using Speed Demon 650cfm metering plates and a Quickfuel throttle base.
With 70 primary jets, .072"PVCR. 86 secondary jets .036" main air bleeds, .062" idle air bleeds, .033" idle feed restictors. Primaries hav a blue pump cam in #2 and the secondaries have a green cam in #1. With the distributor mechanically locked out and set to 36° +15° vacuum advance. I get low 14's idle, low 15's cruise and low 12's power. The MPG's have gone from 6-7 up to 16+.
[YT]xXs5dUx76Pg[/YT]
This week I decided to tackle the stunk bug stance.
Before:
After:
I lowered it by removing the middle leaf spring. To help prevent axle wrap I added a set of slapper bars:
And going this low has giving me a bit of axle to frame interference, so I cut the frame and added a notch bracket.
Running just the main leaf and overload the rear suspension became quite soft. I measured and spec'd out a set of monroe load leveler coil over shocks to help.
Next I plan to make the bed floor using 2"x 2" aluminum square tubing stock and a sheet of aluminum treadbright. I'd also like to make some sort of solid bed cover. Not sure how and what yet.
I also added a time-on delay relay to the headlights circuit and the fuel pump circuit. The idea was the prevent the aftermarket HID's from flashing when the starter is engaged and to also deliver as much voltage to the starter motor as possible.
When the truck was in the air for the frame notches, I was looking at my mufflers and thought that they could possibly be a water trap. I drilled a weep hole at the bottom rear most of the mufflers, once I did solid streams of water came pouring out.
It sounds better not having the mufflers filled with water too.
With the carb in stock settings it had an ugly rich cruise and scary lean power/high rev. As to be expected with an oversized carburetor for the application.
The Mighty Demon is now a hybrid between the Mighty Demon 750cfm main body using Speed Demon 650cfm metering plates and a Quickfuel throttle base.
With 70 primary jets, .072"PVCR. 86 secondary jets .036" main air bleeds, .062" idle air bleeds, .033" idle feed restictors. Primaries hav a blue pump cam in #2 and the secondaries have a green cam in #1. With the distributor mechanically locked out and set to 36° +15° vacuum advance. I get low 14's idle, low 15's cruise and low 12's power. The MPG's have gone from 6-7 up to 16+.
[YT]xXs5dUx76Pg[/YT]
This week I decided to tackle the stunk bug stance.
Before:
After:
I lowered it by removing the middle leaf spring. To help prevent axle wrap I added a set of slapper bars:
And going this low has giving me a bit of axle to frame interference, so I cut the frame and added a notch bracket.
Running just the main leaf and overload the rear suspension became quite soft. I measured and spec'd out a set of monroe load leveler coil over shocks to help.
Next I plan to make the bed floor using 2"x 2" aluminum square tubing stock and a sheet of aluminum treadbright. I'd also like to make some sort of solid bed cover. Not sure how and what yet.
I also added a time-on delay relay to the headlights circuit and the fuel pump circuit. The idea was the prevent the aftermarket HID's from flashing when the starter is engaged and to also deliver as much voltage to the starter motor as possible.
When the truck was in the air for the frame notches, I was looking at my mufflers and thought that they could possibly be a water trap. I drilled a weep hole at the bottom rear most of the mufflers, once I did solid streams of water came pouring out.
It sounds better not having the mufflers filled with water too.
Last edited:
OldCracker29
I've been knocked down drug out and left for dead
Not a fan of lowered trucks, but that engine is awesome. You've definitely put a lot of time into this project. 
