Try not taking the bed off, just loosening it and lifting it enough up front to get your hands and tools in there.
P0449-How To Replace Evap. Vent Solenoid
- Thread starter Bigredmariner
- Start date
Propping the bed up may be the only way to do it by yourself. Take the front bolts completely out and loosen the back ones, use some 2x4's to prop it up and maybe you can get in there. If that doesn't work a lot of people have pulled beds using an engine hoist and some ratchet straps. Use the 4 tie down loops in the bed and criss cross the straps, snatch in the center with the lift. Or use a tree. Good luck and keep us posted, any info that can be added to the subject will hopefully help the next guy.
Sent from my phone y'all.
Sent from my phone y'all.
Dartboy
I actually AM too lazy to Choose a Custom Title
I've got access to an overhead winch, right above the two post lift inside a heated garage 
So lifting shouldn't be a problem, just finding all the little bits connecting the two parts might be, that and rust. It just seems like a lot of work that shouldn't be necessary. Searching the internet has brought up some mentions of a connector beneath the underhood fuse box. I might try digging into that first.
On the other hand, I've gotten so good with the scantool that I can plug it in and clear the code without even slowing down.
Oops, didn't see OldZ71's post in there. I guess you guys were talking to him about tipping the bed
So lifting shouldn't be a problem, just finding all the little bits connecting the two parts might be, that and rust. It just seems like a lot of work that shouldn't be necessary. Searching the internet has brought up some mentions of a connector beneath the underhood fuse box. I might try digging into that first.On the other hand, I've gotten so good with the scantool that I can plug it in and clear the code without even slowing down.
Oops, didn't see OldZ71's post in there. I guess you guys were talking to him about tipping the bed
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Thanks for the prompt replies. I will look into tilting the bed tomorrow and see what I can do. I have had my check engine light go on for the same reason one year ago...on another posting I had found, someone mentioned "SeaFoam" gas additive had allowed his check engine light to go off. ($8.99 to $10.99 at your local automotive store). I've used this fix 3 times over the course of a year and, although it worked for that time, obviously it only delayed the inevitable.... I mention this since it may be of help to someone who cannot get under their truck at this time of year.
BTW OldZ71 is an old lady.
BTW OldZ71 is an old lady.
Never would know it from behind this computer screen. Welcome.Brianfarber
I'm NEW... What now?
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Thanks for the info!! Had the CEL for a year, then it was time to have a smog check. Trouble shot for 15 minutes (found an 'open' when measuring the resistance of old valve, supposed to get 21ohms) ordered the part on Amizon and the fix took 15 minutes, start to finish. Passed smog today and I'm on my way!!
Thanks again for the tech tips!
Brian
Thanks again for the tech tips!
Brian
Dartboy
I actually AM too lazy to Choose a Custom Title
Apparently the problem with mine was that I had $250 too much in my bank account. Took it to the pros, final cause was a corroded wire by the Purge Solenoid up under the hood. Mechanic was gone by the time I picked it up and he wrapped it all back up pretty well, so I didn't get the exact location of the break. From the sound of his description- pinhole in the insulation allowed moisture in and rotted the wire out, plus it looks like the updated parts already under the bed, I'm thinking it might have been an old test probe puncture and I've had this issue before. Probably I would never have found the issue myself.
Thank you for posting your results, glad it got fixed but sorry it cost so much.
