HID and LED Lights Install - GMT-400

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Bernie

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I'm all over the place. :lol:

Moisture: That's about the only way I know of.

Aiming: Take a look at this, it might help. http://www.truckmodcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2986&page=8

I know it is moisture, but...wait, you mean to let moisture get in them so that when it is dry outside, there won't be condensation?

Thanks for the link!

Stick the housings in an oven set as low (180-200 degrees) as it can go for a few hours. It'll dry 'em out just fine. Or take a hair dryer to 'em.
 

nubuilder

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That passenger side high-beam ballast is awfully close to that a/c line... If you get enough vibration, and it slips in the bracket, I think there's a real danger of it rubbing against the line. You might want to consider moving it a little. Also, I'm not seeing any of that neoprene you cut to insulate the ballasts from vibration.

Other than those two things I think you did an outstanding job! :thumbs:

Thanks again Bernie. Without your supreme knowledge (ya, the shits getting deep), I would not have gotten it to work.

-Side note on my wiring job. - I had the relays mounted (as pictured) and started hooking up the spade connectors to them picturing a mirror of the connections in my head. I tried the first light and it didn't work. I thought I had the ground and signal wires crossed so I switched them. Still didn't work. Then I moved my temporary ground to the battery. Still nothing. Then I re-thought the switching of the ground and signal wires and realized I had it right the first time. Switched them back and worked right away. I should have gone with my first instinct. From there on, everything fell into place and worked great.

The large pieces of neoprene are under the ballast (you can't see them; they're there) and the small ones are there too. Without the neoprene, my straps wouldn't work very good.

I know the pass. ballast is really close, but I can't go higher because of the headlight lens itself. The plastic sticks back right above the ballast. I'll have to see what I can do. I was worried about that one too.


Just aimed them a little better. After work tonight, I'll see how they look and I'll park behind another car and see if they are too high.
I measured my lights at approx. 37 inches from the ground and aimed them at 34 inches from a distance of just shy of 6 ft. - Does that sound good?
 
B

Bernie

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That passenger side high-beam ballast is awfully close to that a/c line... If you get enough vibration, and it slips in the bracket, I think there's a real danger of it rubbing against the line. You might want to consider moving it a little. Also, I'm not seeing any of that neoprene you cut to insulate the ballasts from vibration.

Other than those two things I think you did an outstanding job! :thumbs:

Thanks again Bernie. Without your supreme knowledge (ya, the shits getting deep), I would not have gotten it to work.

-Side note on my wiring job. - I had the relays mounted (as pictured) and started hooking up the spade connectors to them picturing a mirror of the connections in my head. I tried the first light and it didn't work. I thought I had the ground and signal wires crossed so I switched them. Still didn't work. Then I moved my temporary ground to the battery. Still nothing. Then I re-thought the switching of the ground and signal wires and realized I had it right the first time. Switched them back and worked right away. I should have gone with my first instinct. From there on, everything fell into place and worked great.

The large pieces of neoprene are under the ballast (you can't see them; they're there) and the small ones are there too. Without the neoprene, my straps wouldn't work very good.

I know the pass. ballast is really close, but I can't go higher because of the headlight lens itself. The plastic sticks back right above the ballast. I'll have to see what I can do. I was worried about that one too.


Just aimed them a little better. After work tonight, I'll see how they look and I'll park behind another car and see if they are too high.
I measured my lights at approx. 37 inches from the ground and aimed them at 34 inches from a distance of just shy of 6 ft. - Does that sound good?

Does Wisconsin have safety inspections? I'm pretty sure they do... If so, any shop that does inspections will have the equipment to check headlight aim.

If you can't move the passenger ballast, see if you can slit an old piece of hose and slide it over the a/c line, then secure it with a couple of zip ties.
 

nubuilder

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We don't have inspections. I'll just see how they do.

I'll probably end up doing something along those lines to protect/cover the lines. Do the lines get hot or cold at all?

Tried the hairdryer to the lens. Got it cleared up and put the bulb in right away. Came back to it 15 minutes later and moister was on the inside again. So I'm gonna leave the bulb out for the rest of the day and try to let Mother Nature take care of it (worked last time, but it is really, really muggy here today).
 
B

Bernie

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We don't have inspections. I'll just see how they do.

I'll probably end up doing something along those lines to protect/cover the lines. Do the lines get hot or cold at all?

Tried the hairdryer to the lens. Got it cleared up and put the bulb in right away. Came back to it 15 minutes later and moister was on the inside again. So I'm gonna leave the bulb out for the rest of the day and try to let Mother Nature take care of it (worked last time, but it is really, really muggy here today).

Yes, the lines do get hot/cold, but a piece of old heater hose can easily handle it.

On the housings, when you use the hair dryer you have to do it for a good 10-15 minutes to get all the moisture out, but if it's really humid by you then it won't help because the humid air is just adding new moisture to it. Wait for a low humidity day and then do it.
 

700 sportsman

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Those look really bright Matt, I do like your mounting idea, and the relay rack. As for the aiming, I have mine at about 34" at like 20' or so, and I read somewhere that it should drop about an inch from 3' or less then out to 20 or 25', so you could probably turn them up a fuzz, but they're probably pretty good. I also used a large garage door at my grandma's shop to aim them. I'm bidding on a set of silverstar ultras on ebay right now

I also have the problem with the high beam flickering the lows, but I can't think of any possible way to fix it, unless you triggered the high beams via a relay
 
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nubuilder

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To try to correct the low beam flicker when I turn on the highs, could I get the signal from the stock high beam wiring (where the new high beam relay gets it from)? Would this help at all or not? - What is this "seperate circuit" you are speaking of drperry (sorry, your name is listed as sinned; I know its a joke)?

Just so you all know, the lows don't fliker when I go from HIGH to LOW, just LOW to HIGH (if that helps figure this out at all).

Also, I don't think I need to re-seal the lens (it is one of my corner markers). I didn't have an issue with it until I unplugged the light from it a few weeks ago. I'm gonna see what happens this week with it though. It isn't supposed to get sunny until Friday (rain up until then :().

Tyler, I'm waiting until after the drive home and a re-measure before I change the aim. I just want to test it out first and I'll go from there. But I'm glad you listed how you aimed yours.
 

drperry

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To try to correct the low beam flicker when I turn on the highs, could I get the signal from the stock high beam wiring (where the new high beam relay gets it from)? Would this help at all or not? - What is this "seperate circuit" you are speaking of drperry (sorry, your name is listed as sinned; I know its a joke)?

Just so you all know, the lows don't fliker when I go from HIGH to LOW, just LOW to HIGH (if that helps figure this out at all).

Also, I don't think I need to re-seal the lens (it is one of my corner markers). I didn't have an issue with it until I unplugged the light from it a few weeks ago. I'm gonna see what happens this week with it though. It isn't supposed to get sunny until Friday (rain up until then :().

Tyler, I'm waiting until after the drive home and a re-measure before I change the aim. I just want to test it out first and I'll go from there. But I'm glad you listed how you aimed yours.



My name is Dennis :jester:

By separate circuit, I meant put in a switch for the purpose...

I'd try connecting the low beam relay trip to the highbeam one, just to see if it helps :dunno:

If you didn't have the moisture issue until you took the bulb out, then drying it out should be fine
 

700 sportsman

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Dennis, how could the low beam trip the high beam, wouldn't they always all be on? Or do you mean get the power from the low beam supply?

I'd really like to get the problem figured out.
 

drperry

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Connect an extra wire from the high beam relay trigger to the low beam relay trigger, with a diode...

A diode is like a one way valve, power will only flow in one direction.
 

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