Blazer Ignition Problems

gsta86

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Only thing I might have wrong is the small red to a "12 volt switched" source. If that can be clearly defined to what I should run it to might help. Right now it's to the back of my ignition switch,MIT gets 12 volts when key is turned on. Right?

I'm getting closer. I can use a screwdriver to jump from the ignition post to the starter signal post on the back of the ignition switch. But turning the key from ON to START, I don't get anything. Also, touching the ACC post wires to the SIGNAL post results in the engine cranking over, no start. There's a small piece of this puzzle that I'm obviously missing.
 

Kennyray

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Only thing I might have wrong is the small red to a "12 volt switched" source. If that can be clearly defined to what I should run it to might help. Right now it's to the back of my ignition switch,MIT gets 12 volts when key is turned on. Right?

I'm getting closer. I can use a screwdriver to jump from the ignition post to the starter signal post on the back of the ignition switch. But turning the key from ON to START, I don't get anything. Also, touching the ACC post wires to the SIGNAL post results in the engine cranking over, no start. There's a small piece of this puzzle that I'm obviously missing.
That is correct. I would look for problems in the crank wire or the switch itself.
 

gsta86

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Only thing I might have wrong is the small red to a "12 volt switched" source. If that can be clearly defined to what I should run it to might help. Right now it's to the back of my ignition switch,MIT gets 12 volts when key is turned on. Right?

I'm getting closer. I can use a screwdriver to jump from the ignition post to the starter signal post on the back of the ignition switch. But turning the key from ON to START, I don't get anything. Also, touching the ACC post wires to the SIGNAL post results in the engine cranking over, no start. There's a small piece of this puzzle that I'm obviously missing.
That is correct. I would look for problems in the crank wire or the switch itself.

I've done both. Bought a new ignition switch, and I've used a jumper wire. Jumping from starter solenoid, to the ignition switch. And still nothing.

6" back from ignition post on the signal wire, there is a yellow male connector that has been split into the line, if I plug a female connector into this, would it complete the circuit? Resulting in the key moving to the START position, sending the complete signal down to the solenoid?
 

Kennyray

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Only thing I might have wrong is the small red to a "12 volt switched" source. If that can be clearly defined to what I should run it to might help. Right now it's to the back of my ignition switch,MIT gets 12 volts when key is turned on. Right?

I'm getting closer. I can use a screwdriver to jump from the ignition post to the starter signal post on the back of the ignition switch. But turning the key from ON to START, I don't get anything. Also, touching the ACC post wires to the SIGNAL post results in the engine cranking over, no start. There's a small piece of this puzzle that I'm obviously missing.
That is correct. I would look for problems in the crank wire or the switch itself.

I've done both. Bought a new ignition switch, and I've used a jumper wire. Jumping from starter solenoid, to the ignition switch. And still nothing.

6" back from ignition post on the signal wire, there is a yellow male connector that has been split into the line, if I plug a female connector into this, would it complete the circuit? Resulting in the key moving to the START position, sending the complete signal down to the solenoid?
Put a meter or test light on it to see if you get voltage in the start position.
 

gsta86

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Only thing I might have wrong is the small red to a "12 volt switched" source. If that can be clearly defined to what I should run it to might help. Right now it's to the back of my ignition switch,MIT gets 12 volts when key is turned on. Right?

I'm getting closer. I can use a screwdriver to jump from the ignition post to the starter signal post on the back of the ignition switch. But turning the key from ON to START, I don't get anything. Also, touching the ACC post wires to the SIGNAL post results in the engine cranking over, no start. There's a small piece of this puzzle that I'm obviously missing.
That is correct. I would look for problems in the crank wire or the switch itself.

I've done both. Bought a new ignition switch, and I've used a jumper wire. Jumping from starter solenoid, to the ignition switch. And still nothing.

6" back from ignition post on the signal wire, there is a yellow male connector that has been split into the line, if I plug a female connector into this, would it complete the circuit? Resulting in the key moving to the START position, sending the complete signal down to the solenoid?
Put a meter or test light on it to see if you get voltage in the start position.

I don't. Is this the pain in my ass that is so easy to fix? Maybe?
 

Kennyray

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You need to make sure that you are getting voltage to the starter in the start position. That may be your only problem.
 

gsta86

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You need to make sure that you are getting voltage to the starter in the start position. That may be your only problem.

I know that I'm not getting that. But I have no idea how to fix that. Any pointers? All the wires look good. Only wires that should be of concern are the red starter >>battery cable. and the purple starter >>>>>ignition switch. Right? I'm pretty sure I have the ignition switch set up right. Only thing I could think of is there suppose to be a hot wire on the starter/signal post?
 

gsta86

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1972. The ignition switch is from a earlier model jeep. Don't know why. But I don't think it should make a diff, right?
 

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