78 Chevy Monza

[66nova]

That's a pretty cool setup!

 

[63chevystepside]

Im going to put the battery in the trunk and mount those hoses where the high beams are.

 

[63chevystepside]

Ok iv been working on the monza and on the number 6 cyclinder and if your on passenger side standing facing the number 6 cyclinder the valve train on the right for the number 6-or- if you count from back to front standing in front of the engine facing it-its the 4th valve train-hope your with me. I have tried everything but take the heads off...it keeps clicking like its a lifter and i have to tighten it up to the point where its almost to tight to get it to stop. Its the second cam and lifters and same thing happened with the other cam and lifters.its new push rods and rockers-heck i went so far as to put a new spring on it that is suppose to be for a 500lift cam and mines is a 480-still does that clicking unless i tighten it almost to tight.i soaked the lifters-the cam i took out of it was good i checked it out.What could cause it to keep clicking like its a lifter unless its almost to tight(to tight is when it starts having to rough of a idle)-HELP PLEASE !Its not the lifter,pushrod,cam, spring,rocker(new) Can a valve bend... and make that noise?I took it to a tranny shop a while back to have the tranny done and it was fine when i dropped it off but when i picked it up after the guy test drove it to check the tranny-it has made that clicking noise ever since on that one cyclinder and when i got it home i found the push rod had a crack at the top and replaced it-but still does it.And it should run better and smoother.

 

[63chevystepside]

HELP!!!

 

[Bigredmariner]

Do a compression check against all cylinders before you take the heads off.

 

[hotrodpc]

Does the rocker arm stud seem to be sticking up taller than the others? I wonder if you have a rocker arm stud trying to pull out. You know those are only pressed in. Unless you have had the heads worked on and had screw in studs put in, which for some high perf applications, you should do that just for that reason. The only other thing I could think of then, is the valve tip is not flat, its angled off where the rocker hits it, or the rocker itself is messed up. Maybe try to change rockers with another valve a couple cylinders down, and see if the problems moves. You may have to do some creative things to try process of elimination. Many times in an engine, especially with valve train components, the problem is not obvious to the naked eye and why it takes a machine shop to find certain failures.

 

[63chevystepside]

Ok on the compression test.Im tinking with it-i moved the place where i get vaccum for advance(to no vaccum at idle) and turned up the idle and adjusted the carb and that made a BIG difference so far.Then i put a adapter plate on for the carb. that helped.Im getting about around 16inches of vaccum almost steady-before it was about 13.i moved the plunger on the carb. and that seemed to help alot when first giving it throttle.i re ran the valves with one valve down(spring pressure) while the one beside it was up(no spring pressure) and the one up i tightened-that one that was clicking clicked and i tightened it down to were i just had to then i did all that adjusting above that i just mentioned. Now im going to go back to that clicking one and see if any of what i did fixed it-SOON.Thanks all for the help-esp. Hot Rod !Its getting to hot again though.That might be that tightened one clicking?O i have the timing set at 12degrees before hooking up adv.

 

[hotrodpc]

Ok on the compression test.Im tinking with it-i moved the place where i get vaccum for advance(to no vaccum at idle) and turned up the idle and adjusted the carb and that made a BIG difference so far.Then i put a adapter plate on for the carb. that helped.Im getting about around 16inches of vaccum almost steady-before it was about 13.i moved the plunger on the carb. and that seemed to help alot when first giving it throttle.i re ran the valves with one valve down(spring pressure) while the one beside it was up(no spring pressure) and the one up i tightened-that one that was clicking clicked and i tightened it down to were i just had to then i did all that adjusting above that i just mentioned. Now im going to go back to that clicking one and see if any of what i did fixed it-SOON.Thanks all for the help-esp. Hot Rod !Its getting to hot again though.That might be that tightened one clicking?O i have the timing set at 12degrees before hooking up adv.

Timing to far advanced will cause overheat or to run warm. I could be wrong, but just from memory, seems to me timing should be about 4-6 degress BTDC. You could also have a differant requirement due to your cam specs, so it may be right, but if you are overheating, retarding the timing a bit will help with running warm. I nornally like to keep my initial timing close to stock spec, but depending on the cam, just have the mechanical curve kit add more timing, and have it come on more quickly with further advance. Also depending on how big the cam is, just avoid vac advance all together since you likley don't have vac at WOT anyway, so you want to depend more on the mechanical advance than you do vac advance.

 

[63chevystepside]

Ok on the compression test.Im tinking with it-i moved the place where i get vaccum for advance(to no vaccum at idle) and turned up the idle and adjusted the carb and that made a BIG difference so far.Then i put a adapter plate on for the carb. that helped.Im getting about around 16inches of vaccum almost steady-before it was about 13.i moved the plunger on the carb. and that seemed to help alot when first giving it throttle.i re ran the valves with one valve down(spring pressure) while the one beside it was up(no spring pressure) and the one up i tightened-that one that was clicking clicked and i tightened it down to were i just had to then i did all that adjusting above that i just mentioned. Now im going to go back to that clicking one and see if any of what i did fixed it-SOON.Thanks all for the help-esp. Hot Rod !Its getting to hot again though.That might be that tightened one clicking?O i have the timing set at 12degrees before hooking up adv.

Timing to far advanced will cause overheat or to run warm. I could be wrong, but just from memory, seems to me timing should be about 4-6 degress BTDC. You could also have a differant requirement due to your cam specs, so it may be right, but if you are overheating, retarding the timing a bit will help with running warm. I nornally like to keep my initial timing close to stock spec, but depending on the cam, just have the mechanical curve kit add more timing, and have it come on more quickly with further advance. Also depending on how big the cam is, just avoid vac advance all together since you likley don't have vac at WOT anyway, so you want to depend more on the mechanical advance than you do vac advance.

Ok---I heard that i can get about 16 degrees total mechanical advance before it gets to were it wont start.So if i unhook the vaccum i could lock it down about 16 and be set.

 

[63chevystepside]

If/when i get this monza up and running its going to be a nightmare to any street legal hot rod-Hot Rod take a look at the pic of that cold ram air kit that i took pics of a page or two back.