Sounds like Hotrod should pop in here and explain. Cause I'm obviously no help, sorry.
66chevystepside-the rebuild-It lives!
- Thread starter 63chevystepside
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63chevystepside
High speed low drag.
That top one is the volt reg. and it has one wire from it to alt. that is plugged in and spliced to also being bolted on the back of the alt. and the second wire from the volt reg. is to the pos. on the battery.-Thats how it's hooked up.
63chevystepside
High speed low drag.
okSounds like Hotrod should pop in here and explain. Cause I'm obviously no help, sorry.
Yeah sorry that's one of those things I would just have to figure out by looking at it and sampling voltages.
63chevystepside
High speed low drag.
Yea-me two-it just makes sense to me at this point that it probably is a 6 volt and has not been changed over-because the way it's hooked up and the way it looks orginal and how it acts when it runs then shut off for no reason then after a few min starts back up and does it all over again-iv got a volt meter on the way tomorrow.
hotrodpc
No, we're not the TF misfits, we WERE the TF ITs !
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I didn't read the whole thread, but I got your email to check out your thread. Yes, you are obviously running 6 volts or through a resister wire. Need to change up some wiring. Member way back there I asked about this HEI, Points, etc etc??? Now you know why !!! Not quite as dumb as some like to think. But, to verify, do this. Disconnect the dizzy wire from the switch. Run a hot wire from the positive of the battery to the dizzy where you took the ignition wire off. Take it for a drive. I have a feeling it will keep running since you'll then have 12 volts.
Then next we need to find some kind of wiring diag on what the existing wiring is, and then make changes from there, OR simply run a brand new wire from the ignition swith to the dizzy, this way you know for fact you are bypassing the resistor, resitor wire, or ballast resistor whichever your truck happens to have.
hotrodpc
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OK, and to add, I did back up some and read somemore. Yes, 66 is already 12 volt factory, and is also already factory alterntator. I think 62 or 63 was last year for generator. Hell not even sure, but for sure its 12 volt and alterantor. It sounded like you have some funky wiring gonig on. When I was hearing this positive from the Regulator etc. Didn't make sense. So what wiring have you changed??? Are you still using the hot wire off the alternator, and the plug with 2 wires on the back of the altarnator too??? Those wires are where the voltage regulaiton come from. Tells the alternator what voltage to put out. BTW, void that statement up there for now and the ignition switch idea for now. You do need a voltmeter to know whats being put out.
63chevystepside
High speed low drag.
Im glad you mention about this before cause id be lost!-i NEVER THOUGHT you didn't know what you was talking about...for the record ok-i just don't know as much as you do and i have to understand it the way i can explain it back...and that sometimes seems like i'm giving ya a hard time when i'm really not-so bear with me i consider ya a bud-ok-OK-i SAID ok?Man when i first start it up and run ok at first but i here a noise like piston drag or bad water pump(replaced pump)then after a few shuts all down.Then after a few i can start it up and it will do it all over again-iv tried to keep it running by giving it more gas and that helps but then it starts running funny.
63chevystepside
High speed low drag.
ok-you see the pic of the volt reg(top one)it has two wires from it one to the pos. battery and one to the alt. and that same wire to the alt plus in to the plug on the left if facing alt and the it's spliced to back of alt and bolted on.
hotrodpc
No, we're not the TF misfits, we WERE the TF ITs !
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No problem 66, that wasn't directed at you. I'm actually not here, but here to help buds and keep in touch. I have a feeling the problem is in the charging system, but it does sound like you are only 6 or low voltage. I have seen it happen before when a guy put a 80 Olds HEI engine in a 73 Olds car that was wired for points ingnition dizzy. Apparently it will run, but with low voltage, the coil is working harder and overheating then you lose spark. After the coil cools down, then it will start back up again. And who knows, it may actually be the HEI module too that is overheating. Never the less this is common of low voltage. The dragging or grinding you are hearing may be the rectifier bridge in the alternator being shorted out by being wired wrong. You really need a voltage meter to verify some things. You know Harbor Freight thas them for like $2.98 for a digital multimeter. They are cheap enough get 2 or 3 of them if you go there. I have even seen them on sale for $1.98, and $2.98 for the fancy one with a backlit display light.
