'63 Chevy step side

hotrodpc

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Its a 454 crank-i don't know to much about 454 but was wondering is that hole put there because of being balanced? Like to have some info on this-help. Thanks
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yes, that is where weight was removed for factory balancing. Which spec is not near what a pro balance job will do. Any motor other than a stocker that I build, spend the money. Take the rotationg assembly and have it balanced. Usually when it gets done pro, they balance to within 1/2 gram. That's pretty balanced I'd say.
 

63chevystepside

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If the stroke on that 454 is 4.0 and i have it turned 20 would it change it to a 3.80?
 

hotrodpc

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No, turning a crank is only cleaning up the journals. They will grind off .010, .020, or .030. They will take off little as possible to clean it up. So if they grind of .010 off the mains, and .010 off the rod journals, then its a .010/.010 crank, and you will order your bearings .010 thicker to make up for what they grind off. Only way to ever change the stroke is to change the crank. No grinding will change a thing other than the size of bearings you need to use.
 

63chevystepside

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ok thanks hot rod. Iv got a question and im really just trying to(understand better)iv been told...and iv heard.... so that being said i lay this to you guys to help me out. So this is what iv heard an been told and you guys help me to get the right answer please. On a 454 iv heard guys who have built them(manchinest) and heard about guys actually doing it taking them to 8000rpm. And at the same token iv been told by them(engineers)that the stroke is the limiting facter because of piston speed... and they say on a stock cast crank....its max safe operating is 5625rpm. Now im guessing the guys who run 8000rpm make things stronger and lighter thereby able to. And iv heard the good ol boy done the street come up with mine is bone stock with just a cam...and iv touched 7000-8000rpm daily for 5yrs now. Can you guys kinda give me some insight on how to build this 454 to be able to get closer to the 8000rpm range. and or how to get more out of the 454 block but i want it to stay together and be able to depend on it not to break so id suffer some hp and torque an rpm for it not exploding apart on me. It is a 1974 454 2 bolt bored 30 over with a cast crank with a N at the beging of the crank casting numbers. Thanks guys-- any an all in put welcomed. Please give as much detail as you can.
 
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63chevystepside

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Any idea how much a heavy duty 1975 3/4 ton gmc regular cab c20 truck would weigh?
 
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hotrodpc

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ok thanks hot rod. Iv got a question and im really just trying to(understand better)iv been told...and iv heard.... so that being said i lay this to you guys to help me out. So this is what iv heard an been told and you guys help me to get the right answer please. On a 454 iv heard guys who have built them(manchinest) and heard about guys actually doing it taking them to 8000rpm. And at the same token iv been told by them(engineers)that the stroke is the limiting facter because of piston speed... and they say on a stock cast crank....its max safe operating is 5625rpm. Now im guessing the guys who run 8000rpm make things stronger and lighter thereby able to. And iv heard the good ol boy done the street come up with mine is bone stock with just a cam...and iv touched 7000-8000rpm daily for 5yrs now. Can you guys kinda give me some insight on how to build this 454 to be able to get closer to the 8000rpm range. and or how to get more out of the 454 block but i want it to stay together and be able to depend on it not to break so id suffer some hp and torque an rpm for it not exploding apart on me. It is a 1974 454 2 bolt bored 30 over with a cast crank with a N at the beging of the crank casting numbers. Thanks guys-- any an all in put welcomed. Please give as much detail as you can.

I'll take a wild guess and only ASSUME the N is on the crank is to designate its Nodular Iron Cast. A bit better than just a cast crank but still not forged. Its what it means in other breeds of GM cranks like Olds 455 for example. I'll let some others chime in on this too, cuz its a long deep subject. Noone says, or maybe they do, but I won't. I won't say a 454 can not operate at over 5625 safely. Its not a matter of will they do the RPM, sure they will do the RPM. Its a matter of if it will stay together or not. Realistically though, your guy down the street turning 7-8K rpm daily for 5 years, you might mention to him to adjust his tach to 8 cylinders instead of 6 cyl cuz I say his tach is lying or someone else is. I don't beleive that for a STOCK 454. You want to get a 454 to turn that kind of rpm, you better be willing to spend some cash to modify the bottom end. Lighten the rotating assembly, balance it, oil restiction kits, high volume pan, main cap girdles, aluminum rods, ARP rod bolts, etc. etc. I don't see any stock 454 turning 7000-8000 and staying together for very long. If you like high rpm motors you better stick with small blocks but plan on some ass spankins with a BBC turning 5200-5500 rpm.
 

63chevystepside

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ok thanks hot rod. Iv got a question and im really just trying to(understand better)iv been told...and iv heard.... so that being said i lay this to you guys to help me out. So this is what iv heard an been told and you guys help me to get the right answer please. On a 454 iv heard guys who have built them(manchinest) and heard about guys actually doing it taking them to 8000rpm. And at the same token iv been told by them(engineers)that the stroke is the limiting facter because of piston speed... and they say on a stock cast crank....its max safe operating is 5625rpm. Now im guessing the guys who run 8000rpm make things stronger and lighter thereby able to. And iv heard the good ol boy done the street come up with mine is bone stock with just a cam...and iv touched 7000-8000rpm daily for 5yrs now. Can you guys kinda give me some insight on how to build this 454 to be able to get closer to the 8000rpm range. and or how to get more out of the 454 block but i want it to stay together and be able to depend on it not to break so id suffer some hp and torque an rpm for it not exploding apart on me. It is a 1974 454 2 bolt bored 30 over with a cast crank with a N at the beging of the crank casting numbers. Thanks guys-- any an all in put welcomed. Please give as much detail as you can.

I'll take a wild guess and only ASSUME the N is on the crank is to designate its Nodular Iron Cast. A bit better than just a cast crank but still not forged. Its what it means in other breeds of GM cranks like Olds 455 for example. I'll let some others chime in on this too, cuz its a long deep subject. Noone says, or maybe they do, but I won't. I won't say a 454 can not operate at over 5625 safely. Its not a matter of will they do the RPM, sure they will do the RPM. Its a matter of if it will stay together or not. Realistically though, your guy down the street turning 7-8K rpm daily for 5 years, you might mention to him to adjust his tach to 8 cylinders instead of 6 cyl cuz I say his tach is lying or someone else is. I don't beleive that for a STOCK 454. You want to get a 454 to turn that kind of rpm, you better be willing to spend some cash to modify the bottom end. Lighten the rotating assembly, balance it, oil restiction kits, high volume pan, main cap girdles, aluminum rods, ARP rod bolts, etc. etc. I don't see any stock 454 turning 7000-8000 and staying together for very long. If you like high rpm motors you better stick with small blocks but plan on some ass spankins with a BBC turning 5200-5500 rpm.

The stuff i found on the "N" was bout what you said-its a better than normal cast crank. Im thinking of going ahead and doing the 454 an putting it in the 63 with the 400 u built 4 me then gear it to 4.11. And just pic a good cam up to bout 6000rpm and with the lest amount of duration i can and doing the 4 retard on the chain and have it balanced with arp bolts higher compression pistions(9.2 to 1)...and try to build as much hp/torque between idle and 6000rpm and call it good-i don't wanna speed 10g on the rebuild but i wouldnt mind doing a thing or two to help the bottom end be stronger. My 63 with the 350 in it now is pushing 500 to 550hp.
 

63chevystepside

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Im looking into getting my boy a 1976 chevy camero LT-the guy said u have to"bump" shift it-im guessing its just a filter clogged? Anything else could be?
 

Zembonez

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Anything on earth could be wrong with a 35 year old trans. That's probably a turbo 350 though... unless somebody has switched it with something else over the years. Pretty good and easily fixed units normally.
 

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