'63 Chevy step side

[hotrodpc]

Duh, Thread skimming again. BRM already told you that.

 

[hotrodpc]

Im kinda not getting this-can't you instead of bleeding the bleeders at the drums rev the process and do it at the master cyclinder? using the pump brake pedal and hold as you open the bleeder on the master cyclinder? the above method mentioned in last reply is for using a pump at the bleeder on the drums then bleeding it out the master cyclinder.instead of using a pump and gravity why not use pressure?havent tried it yet just getting info before i head that way...

Uhhh, I think not. If I understand this process right, you are sucking air back into the system from the bleeders. I'd do it the good old fashioned right way or not at all. This is brakes, not a performance tune where you try something, and go around the block and the come back and try something else. If you don't have someone to pump and hold for you, then use a vac pump.

 

[63chevystepside]

Im kinda not getting this-can't you instead of bleeding the bleeders at the drums rev the process and do it at the master cyclinder? using the pump brake pedal and hold as you open the bleeder on the master cyclinder? the above method mentioned in last reply is for using a pump at the bleeder on the drums then bleeding it out the master cyclinder.instead of using a pump and gravity why not use pressure?havent tried it yet just getting info before i head that way...

Uhhh, I think not. If I understand this process right, you are sucking air back into the system from the bleeders. I'd do it the good old fashioned right way or not at all. This is brakes, not a performance tune where you try something, and go around the block and the come back and try something else. If you don't have someone to pump and hold for you, then use a vac pump.

Yea i already know the good ol fashion way-i was trying to see if there was another method of doing the bleed which there is-just not through the master cyclinder unless your bench bleeding the master cyclinder-just checking with everyone-yes i know the o fashion way...but we are talking about a 47yr old truck and pentrating fluid don't seem to be doing the trick and just didnt want to break the bleeders at the drum then have a whole other issue to deal with.i had checked the brakes and the front two were way to tight so i loosed them up and checked brake pedal travel an for my set up its 4.5inches and mine are not far off from that so i just topped off the master cyclinder an called it good for now til i can get it out of the garage an test it-it stoped fine before but pulled to the left an really pulled to the left once you hit the brake-so might of just been a adjustment-but yea i know upgrade the brake system-i probably leave the drums and go with a dual line set up and power booster but thats after the 454 and 400 install---i dont know no where near as much about vehicles as you do hot rod and some of you others thats why i try to be smart an ask...some guys open all the bleeders an keep the master cyclinder full an let gravity bleed the system-there is 4 methods at least that can be done in bleeding brakes though an lol bleeding from the master cyclinder is not one of them ---hows the 700r4 coming?

 

[hotrodpc]

Im kinda not getting this-can't you instead of bleeding the bleeders at the drums rev the process and do it at the master cyclinder? using the pump brake pedal and hold as you open the bleeder on the master cyclinder? the above method mentioned in last reply is for using a pump at the bleeder on the drums then bleeding it out the master cyclinder.instead of using a pump and gravity why not use pressure?havent tried it yet just getting info before i head that way...

Uhhh, I think not. If I understand this process right, you are sucking air back into the system from the bleeders. I'd do it the good old fashioned right way or not at all. This is brakes, not a performance tune where you try something, and go around the block and the come back and try something else. If you don't have someone to pump and hold for you, then use a vac pump.

Yea i already know the good ol fashion way-i was trying to see if there was another method of doing the bleed which there is-just not through the master cyclinder unless your bench bleeding the master cyclinder-just checking with everyone-yes i know the o fashion way...but we are talking about a 47yr old truck and pentrating fluid don't seem to be doing the trick and just didnt want to break the bleeders at the drum then have a whole other issue to deal with.i had checked the brakes and the front two were way to tight so i loosed them up and checked brake pedal travel an for my set up its 4.5inches and mine are not far off from that so i just topped off the master cyclinder an called it good for now til i can get it out of the garage an test it-it stoped fine before but pulled to the left an really pulled to the left once you hit the brake-so might of just been a adjustment-but yea i know upgrade the brake system-i probably leave the drums and go with a dual line set up and power booster but thats after the 454 and 400 install---i dont know no where near as much about vehicles as you do hot rod and some of you others thats why i try to be smart an ask...some guys open all the bleeders an keep the master cyclinder full an let gravity bleed the system-there is 4 methods at least that can be done in bleeding brakes though an lol bleeding from the master cyclinder is not one of them ---hows the 700r4 coming?

And bench bleeding only bleeds the master for a swap, you'd still have to bleed the wheels. What you might need for those bleeders if not late and you have stripped them, is an offset brake bleeder wrench that is boxed with a 6 pt instead of 12 pt. They work great for those old stuck bleeders and they won't strip the bleeder either. Othe choice maybe to try is a line wrench or flare nut wrecnch if you have it. Then last but not least choice, is a 1/4 in drive deep well 6pt socket, just to get them broke loose, then go back to your wrench.
700r4 was to nice. I got the pan off of it, it was perfect shape. Didn't even have some normal wear sludge in it, the fluid was perfect, so I buttoned it back up. By the pan gasket and the filter I could tell it had been rebuilt before. The guy I bought it from told me it worked great. I now beleive him and am going to install it when I get time and the weather warms up. It's ll be a runner. Not as strong as I wanted it since I didn't build it and mod it, but it will work.. My other 4x4 is the going to be the hell raiser anyway, so a good stock build on this 4x4 will be good enough.

 

[63chevystepside]

Im kinda not getting this-can't you instead of bleeding the bleeders at the drums rev the process and do it at the master cyclinder? using the pump brake pedal and hold as you open the bleeder on the master cyclinder? the above method mentioned in last reply is for using a pump at the bleeder on the drums then bleeding it out the master cyclinder.instead of using a pump and gravity why not use pressure?havent tried it yet just getting info before i head that way...

Uhhh, I think not. If I understand this process right, you are sucking air back into the system from the bleeders. I'd do it the good old fashioned right way or not at all. This is brakes, not a performance tune where you try something, and go around the block and the come back and try something else. If you don't have someone to pump and hold for you, then use a vac pump.

Yea i already know the good ol fashion way-i was trying to see if there was another method of doing the bleed which there is-just not through the master cyclinder unless your bench bleeding the master cyclinder-just checking with everyone-yes i know the o fashion way...but we are talking about a 47yr old truck and pentrating fluid don't seem to be doing the trick and just didnt want to break the bleeders at the drum then have a whole other issue to deal with.i had checked the brakes and the front two were way to tight so i loosed them up and checked brake pedal travel an for my set up its 4.5inches and mine are not far off from that so i just topped off the master cyclinder an called it good for now til i can get it out of the garage an test it-it stoped fine before but pulled to the left an really pulled to the left once you hit the brake-so might of just been a adjustment-but yea i know upgrade the brake system-i probably leave the drums and go with a dual line set up and power booster but thats after the 454 and 400 install---i dont know no where near as much about vehicles as you do hot rod and some of you others thats why i try to be smart an ask...some guys open all the bleeders an keep the master cyclinder full an let gravity bleed the system-there is 4 methods at least that can be done in bleeding brakes though an lol bleeding from the master cyclinder is not one of them ---hows the 700r4 coming?

And bench bleeding only bleeds the master for a swap, you'd still have to bleed the wheels. What you might need for those bleeders if not late and you have stripped them, is an offset brake bleeder wrench that is boxed with a 6 pt instead of 12 pt. They work great for those old stuck bleeders and they won't strip the bleeder either. Othe choice maybe to try is a line wrench or flare nut wrecnch if you have it. Then last but not least choice, is a 1/4 in drive deep well 6pt socket, just to get them broke loose, then go back to your wrench.
700r4 was to nice. I got the pan off of it, it was perfect shape. Didn't even have some normal wear sludge in it, the fluid was perfect, so I buttoned it back up. By the pan gasket and the filter I could tell it had been rebuilt before. The guy I bought it from told me it worked great. I now beleive him and am going to install it when I get time and the weather warms up. It's ll be a runner. Not as strong as I wanted it since I didn't build it and mod it, but it will work.. My other 4x4 is the going to be the hell raiser anyway, so a good stock build on this 4x4 will be good enough.

Good glad to hear it is able to go right in. iv just been tinkering with my 63 here an there working bugs out-it starts right up now-i got a radio in it now...its coming along pretty good-heck i got power sterring an heat two-lol-i feel better about putting the 454 an 400 in it now-just got to sale the 70 c10 and i'll have the funds to do the 454-well at least make a dent.after next week i'll be able to at least get the crank turned an start doing it piece by piece in the rebuild til i get the big bucks to slam down on it. hoping before spring to have this all done.---can't be driving the 63 around with a stock 350-lol-someone might wanna race-i havent had it on the road much yet but im sure i'll get alot of attention once i do an i want it to do what it looks like it can do.

 

[hotrodpc]

I hope you realize how wicked of a drive that's going to be in the that truck with a 454/400. And you better be looking for a rear end upgrade. If thats the rear end I am thinking of, I used to shatter a set of spiders about once a month with a modified 350/350. Then I put spacers in to tighten up the spiders and shattered the carrier. Bought a new/used 3rd member, since its a drop out, that lasted a week. Mine was a 62 Long Bed. I got another 3rd member, put an inline 6 in it, then transfered that motor and trans to the 64 GMC 3/4 ton with Dana 60 and Limited Slip and never broke that.

I had to put a new Thermostat in my 84 454 truck. My failsafe thermostat stuck open and wouldn't heat the truck. Working just fine and toasty now within 2 miles of the house.

 

[63chevystepside]

I hope you realize how wicked of a drive that's going to be in the that truck with a 454/400. And you better be looking for a rear end upgrade. If thats the rear end I am thinking of, I used to shatter a set of spiders about once a month with a modified 350/350. Then I put spacers in to tighten up the spiders and shattered the carrier. Bought a new/used 3rd member, since its a drop out, that lasted a week. Mine was a 62 Long Bed. I got another 3rd member, put an inline 6 in it, then transfered that motor and trans to the 64 GMC 3/4 ton with Dana 60 and Limited Slip and never broke that.

I had to put a new Thermostat in my 84 454 truck. My failsafe thermostat stuck open and wouldn't heat the truck. Working just fine and toasty now within 2 miles of the house.

Its got a 12 bolt and i jacked the wheels up an did the tire an shaft turn and i beleive its 373-i was thinking of sticking with the 373 but get all fresh stuff with limited slip-theres a place that does rearends for 1250.00 an they'll put 373 with limited slip---when you mean diff. rearend are you saying a mod on mine or a total diff. one thats stronger?

 

[hotrodpc]

I hope you realize how wicked of a drive that's going to be in the that truck with a 454/400. And you better be looking for a rear end upgrade. If thats the rear end I am thinking of, I used to shatter a set of spiders about once a month with a modified 350/350. Then I put spacers in to tighten up the spiders and shattered the carrier. Bought a new/used 3rd member, since its a drop out, that lasted a week. Mine was a 62 Long Bed. I got another 3rd member, put an inline 6 in it, then transfered that motor and trans to the 64 GMC 3/4 ton with Dana 60 and Limited Slip and never broke that.

I had to put a new Thermostat in my 84 454 truck. My failsafe thermostat stuck open and wouldn't heat the truck. Working just fine and toasty now within 2 miles of the house.

Its got a 12 bolt and i jacked the wheels up an did the tire an shaft turn and i beleive its 373-i was thinking of sticking with the 373 but get all fresh stuff with limited slip-theres a place that does rearends for 1250.00 an they'll put 373 with limited slip---when you mean diff. rearend are you saying a mod on mine or a total diff. one thats stronger?

$1250??? Sumbitch???? Axles made of Gold or what??? Tell them steel will be just fine and get it down to about $700 or so, then you'll talk. Dayum !!! Who did you call??? 3.73 would be an awesome gear for that 454. You're not worried about comfort in that truck so for that kind of money, you should be able to get a Detroit Locker, New Carrier, Gears and all. If yours has already been set up with 12 bolt, then go with it. The one I am reffering to is the stock OEM rear end from 1962 -63 that if I recall was a 10 bolt. I know it was a drop out 3rd member, so if yours isn't a drop out, then its likley been upgraded already. Run with it. If your gears are good, just have someone set you up with a limited slip carrier using the same gears and axles with new bearings and seals. Call it good to go. I wouldn't think anymore than $700 or $800.

 

[63chevystepside]

I hope you realize how wicked of a drive that's going to be in the that truck with a 454/400. And you better be looking for a rear end upgrade. If thats the rear end I am thinking of, I used to shatter a set of spiders about once a month with a modified 350/350. Then I put spacers in to tighten up the spiders and shattered the carrier. Bought a new/used 3rd member, since its a drop out, that lasted a week. Mine was a 62 Long Bed. I got another 3rd member, put an inline 6 in it, then transfered that motor and trans to the 64 GMC 3/4 ton with Dana 60 and Limited Slip and never broke that.

I had to put a new Thermostat in my 84 454 truck. My failsafe thermostat stuck open and wouldn't heat the truck. Working just fine and toasty now within 2 miles of the house.

Its got a 12 bolt and i jacked the wheels up an did the tire an shaft turn and i beleive its 373-i was thinking of sticking with the 373 but get all fresh stuff with limited slip-theres a place that does rearends for 1250.00 an they'll put 373 with limited slip---when you mean diff. rearend are you saying a mod on mine or a total diff. one thats stronger?

$1250??? Sumbitch???? Axles made of Gold or what??? Tell them steel will be just fine and get it down to about $700 or so, then you'll talk. Dayum !!! Who did you call??? 3.73 would be an awesome gear for that 454. You're not worried about comfort in that truck so for that kind of money, you should be able to get a Detroit Locker, New Carrier, Gears and all. If yours has already been set up with 12 bolt, then go with it. The one I am reffering to is the stock OEM rear end from 1962 -63 that if I recall was a 10 bolt. I know it was a drop out 3rd member, so if yours isn't a drop out, then its likley been upgraded already. Run with it. If your gears are good, just have someone set you up with a limited slip carrier using the same gears and axles with new bearings and seals. Call it good to go. I wouldn't think anymore than $700 or $800.

I had stoped in over on a place on sheilds and he called a guy...an he said that is what they charge?---i think mine is orginal rearend-its a 12bolt like the one on my 70 c10 but i think the gears are 373?my 70 c10 are 308-i'll know better once i can get it on the hiway an see what the rpm is doing...are 12 bolt stock rearends better than 10 bolt stock rearends? i want it strong enough to handle what im putting in front of it.

 

[hotrodpc]

Over off Shields, like beside or just behind a corner car lot? That would be Gary's Differential and that dude is high priced. He wanted $40 just to install a damn U joint in a driveshaft I was gonna carry in. I said to hell with that. I used my vise and sockets and did it myself for FREE and had it done in the amount of time it would have took me to just drive there let alone wait and drive back. Called him for something else too cuz I had a coworker that worked there and said he could get me a discount. So after I got the price, then I said, OK now how about that discount and he said that was discounted 20%. Like hell, I got it done cheaper without a discount at Agnew, the place I told you about that does good driveline work. Also call Bluementhals. They do good differential work.