2001 Tahoe leveling - Rear Drop

dietz4ibanez

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I had a bad experience with lowering springs once.. I thought that I did my research and to my understanding I was getting a high quality lowering spring....

Well the ride was bouncier than all get out...

I wish that I could tell you what to get! Just make sure you know what you are getting! :thumbs:
 

daddy

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I did some homework. turns out I have the zw7 option on my Suburban as well. I can verify that these are NOT the self leveling shocks. There was a regular suspension, then the ZW7 Premium Ride suspension, and the the G69 Premium Autoride Suspension (self-leveling). So replacing your rear shocks and springs wont be quite as expensive as you thought!


:thumbs::thumbs:


This is correct, they are not the autoride shocks but they are self-leveling. The ZW7 option uses a Nivomat shock and they do run around $300-$400 each.

Here's a link to a little info about them: http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Art...selfleveling_monotube_ride_control_units.aspx
 

PenguinLTZ

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'hoe, 'hoe, 'hoe...

2713772800056313536S600x600Q85.jpg
 

ScottyBoy

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I did some homework. turns out I have the zw7 option on my Suburban as well. I can verify that these are NOT the self leveling shocks. There was a regular suspension, then the ZW7 Premium Ride suspension, and the the G69 Premium Autoride Suspension (self-leveling). So replacing your rear shocks and springs wont be quite as expensive as you thought!


:thumbs::thumbs:


This is correct, they are not the autoride shocks but they are self-leveling. The ZW7 option uses a Nivomat shock and they do run around $300-$400 each.

Here's a link to a little info about them: http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/Art...selfleveling_monotube_ride_control_units.aspx
Ok, I guess we are both right...but I was only part right. After reading the page on your link it makes sense now (and explains a lot). I know my shocks have no air or any other type of lines or hoses going to them, so I assumed they were not self leveling. According to that webpage, everything is self contained inside the shock. I guess that explain why the shocks are dam huge. It also explains a lot about when I towed a blazer from New Orleans to Shreveport. When I first hooked up to the car transport trailer, the back of my Suburban sqatted down really bad. But after driving about a mile or two, I stopped for gas before getting on the highway and noticed that it had leveled out (lifted back up almost 3 inches). Tobias, I beleive that you wont need any air springs to tow your boat if you have these shocks on there. I know I've towed that blazer on the tandem axle trailer well over 300 miles (without a weight dist hitch) and after it leveled out it was perfectly fine. The guy at U-haul said those trailers weigh about 1800-2000 lbs empty, and I know that blazer is at least 4000-4500lbs. My truck is reated to tow 6800lbs and I'm sure yours should be the same. Now I'm dreading when I have to replace my shocks.......:uhoh:
 

daddy

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But I wanna level it. :(

I measured again but this time in a bit more level lot and it's a full 2" higher in the rear and I hate it. :fume:


Scott, is yours factory ride height or have you leveled it? It looks fairly level but so does mine in pics at that angle.
 

PenguinLTZ

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But I wanna level it. :(

I measured again but this time in a bit more level lot and it's a full 2" higher in the rear and I hate it. :fume:


Scott, is yours factory ride height or have you leveled it? It looks fairly level but so does mine in pics at that angle.

All factory, it's just that pic. She sits a bit higher in the ass end.
 

ScottyBoy

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Daddy, why don't you just raise the front two inches if you want it level ? To do that, all you'd have to do is crank the torsion bar bolts. :dunno:
 

ScottyBoy

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Plus you wouldn't have to change any shocks or springs or anything....
I'm just sayin......
:cool:
 

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