2001 Tahoe leveling - Rear Drop

[Zembonez]

You can lower the high side just by cranking down a little. All it does is reduce the tension on the bar. Adjust a little and then bounce the suspension to settle it in. Once you get it where you want it go drive a mile or so and pull back in the driveway and remeasure. It might take a couple of tries but it isn't hard.

 

[ScottyBoy]

Then I guess your best bet is to install a set of bilsteins and some lowering springs. From what I've read so far on other sites about the zw7 shocks, the only way to convert it to regular shocks is to change the springs as well. Since you're wanting to lower it anyway, I guess spend the money on the springs instead of the expensive ass shocks. Same goes for the front, youd have to switch to regular springs if you put regular shocks.

Why would I need to change the springs in the front? The shocks up there are just normal shocks.

Not from what I've been reading......

I haven't seen that. Where are you reading that from?

I'm getting mixed info from different sites. Some say the front shocks are the same, some say they are different. Some parts websites say they are for the rear zw7 autoride suspension, some say the zw7 takes regular shocks; Then some only have regular shocks and then shocks for the g65 self-adjusting option.


Now I'm confused Are the parts sites getting the zw7 and g65 shocks confused?

These two links for front shocks claim they are for zw7 equipped tahoes.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Shock-Strut---Front-Monroe_19711094-P_49_R%7CGRPSHOCAMS_977386202___

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=NS&PartNumber=911505&Description=Shock+Absorber+-+Reflex++MonoTube+-+Front

 

[DV2000NJ]

I've never messed with torsion bars before. Is it possible to lower one side at all or will they only go up from where they are now? Also, do both of them rotate the same way to achieve the same lift or do they turn in opposite directions? I'd suspect the latter but even if that's the case, which way is which? Even so... adjusting the torsion bars is the best way to set the height from side to side. Bilsteins will be great on there.

The torsion bars do twist in opposite directions of each other, but that has nothing to do with the adjustment, just the way they support the suspension (since the drivers and passenger side control arms rotate in opposite directions of each other).

The adjustment is just a single bolt on each side of the torsion bar cross-member that controls the amount of torsion by re-positioning the key. It's a simple righty-tighty lefty-loosey bolt. There is adjustment in both directions (up and down).

The best way to understand the system is to just crawl under there and look. It's ridiculously simple once you see it.

 

[ScottyBoy]

 

[LMSeven]

Dayum, I have ZX3 and their $200 each IIRC for Monroe's.

edit: Maybe not, I should do more research.

 

[Cashezo]

Alright, guys. I have this "new" Tahoe but I want to drop the rear to level it out while still keeping a nice smooth ride and the ability to tow my pontoon and eventually a travel trailer.

Currently I have the ZW7 - PREMIUM RIDE SUSPENSION option which amounts to special springs and some $400/ea self-leveling shocks.

From everything I have read replacing the rear shocks with normal shocks requires a new set of springs but I'll have to have that to lower it anyway so I think I am in the clear on that part. What I am trying to figure out it what kit and what shocks to go with.

Right now my back end is 1.5 inches higher than the front but the left side is 1" lower than the right. I do have a full tank of gas though.

Any suggestions on rear lowering kits? Any suggestions on shocks? I've nver heard anything bad about Bilsteins so I am leaning that direction.

I plan to add an air ride kit as well but that'll be in another thread.

Make sure High Plains Drifter doesn't join TMC .

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=99608

 

[daddy]

I've never messed with torsion bars before. Is it possible to lower one side at all or will they only go up from where they are now? Also, do both of them rotate the same way to achieve the same lift or do they turn in opposite directions? I'd suspect the latter but even if that's the case, which way is which? Even so... adjusting the torsion bars is the best way to set the height from side to side. Bilsteins will be great on there.

The torsion bars do twist in opposite directions of each other, but that has nothing to do with the adjustment, just the way they support the suspension (since the drivers and passenger side control arms rotate in opposite directions of each other).

The adjustment is just a single bolt on each side of the torsion bar cross-member that controls the amount of torsion by re-positioning the key. It's a simple righty-tighty lefty-loosey bolt. There is adjustment in both directions (up and down).

The best way to understand the system is to just crawl under there and look. It's ridiculously simple once you see it.

Thanks, Dan. I'm assuming that lowering an inch or so shouldn't really hurt much, right? I'd actually think it might improve the CV-angles???

 

[DV2000NJ]

I've never messed with torsion bars before. Is it possible to lower one side at all or will they only go up from where they are now? Also, do both of them rotate the same way to achieve the same lift or do they turn in opposite directions? I'd suspect the latter but even if that's the case, which way is which? Even so... adjusting the torsion bars is the best way to set the height from side to side. Bilsteins will be great on there.

The torsion bars do twist in opposite directions of each other, but that has nothing to do with the adjustment, just the way they support the suspension (since the drivers and passenger side control arms rotate in opposite directions of each other).

The adjustment is just a single bolt on each side of the torsion bar cross-member that controls the amount of torsion by re-positioning the key. It's a simple righty-tighty lefty-loosey bolt. There is adjustment in both directions (up and down).

The best way to understand the system is to just crawl under there and look. It's ridiculously simple once you see it.

Thanks, Dan. I'm assuming that lowering an inch or so shouldn't really hurt much, right? I'd actually think it might improve the CV-angles???

Lowering it an inch shouldn't be bad, but your LCA will be riding considerably closer to the rubber bump-stop (it's already damn close at stock height), so some trimming may be necessary.

As far as CV angles go, they may be a little flatter than stock, but that doesn't necessarily mean better. Nothing is going to be better than the stock position, since that's where everything was designed to operate. I know when I cranked a little bit, bump-steer became more apparent, and I would imagine de-cranking a little bit would do the same thing (since the suspension and steering components are no longer in the position they was designed to be in).

That said, as long as your angles are relatively flat, you shouldn't run into any wear issues at all. There are guys who have lowered the front a couple inches, and their trucks are fine, so dropping both sides an inch or so shouldn't hurt anything.

And that's the nice thing about torsion bars, if you don't like it, you can just jack the truck up again, turn a couple bolts, and get it re-aligned.

 

[daddy]

Alright, I just ordered the Ground Force 2.5 (I've read it's really about 1.75-2") rear drop kit and some new Bilsteins for up front. The GF kit comes with new rear shocks so I'll give them a chance. I'd hope that a company that specializes in drops can also provide a decent shock for their kits as well. We'll see.

I figure with a little adjustment up front via the torsion bars and the rear drop kit I should be nice and leveled out when through. I'll order the Firestone helper bags once I actually get the TT. I only have to tow the boat once more this year in October so that'll be the trial run with the dropped ass.

 

[daddy]

Alright, I just ordered the Ground Force 2.5 (I've read it's really about 1.75-2") rear drop kit and some new Bilsteins for up front. The GF kit comes with new rear shocks so I'll give them a chance. I'd hope that a company that specializes in drops can also provide a decent shock for their kits as well. We'll see.

I figure with a little adjustment up front via the torsion bars and the rear drop kit I should be nice and leveled out when through. I'll order the Firestone helper bags once I actually get the TT. I only have to tow the boat once more this year in October so that'll be the trial run with the dropped ass.

Anyone here had any experience with the GroundForce shocks?