1997 Mazda Millenia won't fire ...help please !!

[Draenor]

F'n tapatalk.

Are you getting a CEL or are you able to scan for DTCs?


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

 

[bigdreynolds]

Yes you would.
You need air, fuel, and fire(and timing).

You need to make sure the fuel pump runs, it should prime and turn off on the on position. Then you need to know if you are getting the correct PSI at the rail. I assume it going to be 50-55psi. With a 2-5 psi drop and hold with everything off. Once that is verified. Then you need to check spark. If you have to, pull a plug and either put a spark tester on it or ground it out, turn the engine over and see if that is happening. I'm not sure of the values, but you can chech the ohms of the wires.


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

No spark . took plug out and put plug wire back on it ,then grounded it, then cranked motor ......nothing.

 

[bigdreynolds]

F'n tapatalk.

Are you getting a CEL or are you able to scan for DTCs?


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

No CEL . If it would throw one it might help but without one I'm just guessing .

 

[bigdreynolds]

Auto parts store says I cant service distributer ( coil and ignition module) but I took the whole thing apart down to just the case . Removed ignition module and coil , but I don't know how to check them

 

[Draenor]

This is a DIS? I'm not familiar with the Mazdas. You have the V6?


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

 

[Draenor]

You can check the condition of the contacts on the cap. If they are corroded from arcing you may be able to lightly sand them to get you by, otherwise you will need to replace. If its an all in one peice, probably have to get the whole thing. You can always check the ohms on the coil terminals. Again I don't know the specs but may read .5 or so.
Is there a fuse for the ignition? The only thing that sticks out at me is the switch source for your amp. Where did you connect that to?


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

 

[bigdreynolds]

You can check the condition of the contacts on the cap. If they are corroded from arcing you may be able to lightly sand them to get you by, otherwise you will need to replace. If its an all in one peice, probably have to get the whole thing. You can always check the ohms on the coil terminals. Again I don't know the specs but may read .5 or so.
Is there a fuse for the ignition? The only thing that sticks out at me is the switch source for your amp. Where did you connect that to?


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

Motor is a 2.5 v6 .
Sanded the little of corrosion on contacts and on rotor bug .
Checked ohms on coil , they are within specs.
All fuses are good .
connected source wire for amp to lighter fuse in the fuse box under the dash .

Don't know how to check relays in fuse box under the hood either .

Not getting any spark at all ...even tried 2 differend plugs and thier wires in case one was bad .

 

[bigdreynolds]

This is what the distributer looks like ....ugly little burger lol!
take off rotor , then dust cap and there is the ignition module , then under that is the coil .

 

[Draenor]

Not sure how your relays are but they are mostly the same.
85/86 is the coil, either side can be positive or negative. 86 usually goes to your switch, 85 to a ground.
30 Sould be fused to the battery.
87 is out to whatever( pump, lights, etc)


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.

 

[Draenor]

This is what the distributer looks like ....ugly little burger lol!
take off rotor , then dust cap and there is the ignition module , then under that is the coil .

Sucks that it's not serviceable. I don't know you financial situation but I'd get a new one. They can't be more than $100 give or take.


Sent from my overly sofisticated electronic device.