Recent content by bubbatrucklover

I thought the same thing. :naughty: "Oh you DON'T have a rear Diff temp? HMMM. I do" :pfingers: lol

:lol: That's ok. Even though I grew up in Nebraska and am WELL aware of the "harsher elements" I STILL tend to forget just how nasty it can get. I mean we see 0 or negative occasionally in north east Florida just not with the sleet and snow added. :ohnoes:

SLIGHT change in my info. It turns out I ONLY have a 250 amp alt. (and had upgraded from a 200 amp alt.) and I had planned accordingly with the matched isolator. :thumbs: OCCASIONALLY I make the right choices the FIRST time when planning things out. :rocker: :naughty:

Well Penguin this is the isolator I have : https://www.amazon.com/ProMariner-ProIsoCharge-Battery-Isolator-250Amp/dp/B004VBGU4E I realize it's 250 amp but, that was what my alt was before I had them test it then since they had it I had them bump up the amps "just because" and kept the 250 amp...

Thanks Penguin. :cheers: I suspected it wasn't anything I really needed to concern myself with.Thanks for confirming that. As for my triple gauges, my current set up is trans temp, fuel pressure (both you suggested) and air/fuel ratio. The last was a waste of $. It bounces ALL over. At the time...

I have a 300 amp alternator, digital battery separator and dual battery setup. After other pressing projects are finished I want to turn my attention to my power distribution/usage. I realize I'm not putting out 300 amps ALL the time NOR that I might NEVER see the full 300 amps. PRESUMABLY...

I'm one of those guys who has an overhead and center console and think it's :quote:cool:quote: to feel like your in a cockpit. I have the triple gauge set up on my A pillar and will be adding some gauges on top of the dash and/or possibly over head. Just kicking around different ideas I came...

To answer this question. The overall ended up being a 1/2" shorter making only an extra 1/2" of the drive shaft exposed. (obviously)

I will give a semi- condensed timeline leading up to the question (s) and keep the extra commentary to a minimum. A few years ago I was driving my 2002 Silverado from point A to point B. All kinds of noises started happening and I pulled to the side of the road. My transmission didn't have but a...

Thanks for the insight. :cheers: Had no intention of heating the drive shaft BUT, THANK YOU for PRE warning SHOULD the urge strike me. :facepalm:

Well you have me sold and while looking on amazon I found a customer who shared this: That's basically what I'm looking for. :thumbs: One customer said this, " I've seen a lot of pics with people installing with the ports down but this design is definitely suppose to have the ports up...

DEFINITELY worth checking into and budgeting for. :thumbs: Thanks. :cheers:

That all sounds like good advice but, I particularly like what I highlighted. :thumbs: The flaring and all is outside my comfort zone. Thank you so much for helping put my mind at ease. :cheers:I'm not saying a few hundred dollars ISN'T worth saving a trans BUT, if I can get the results I want...

Having somewhat of an electrical background I understand that. You use Noalox if wiring a copper device to aluminum wiring or use an alumicon (sp?) which has the noalox in it but, (as I said) this is the FIRST time I've even seen this as an option for u-joints and certain drive shafts. In all...

So while rounding up parts and fluids to do my t-case/trans swap I thought maybe I should swap out the u-joints even though they are "new" (replaced less then a year ago) and I came across a few things. ONE did Moog merge with or buy out a company call Precision? At the parts store that USED to...