Zuk on 38's

[Tan Zuk]

Here is a very rough idea of what I have in mind. I agree with the Bumpstop pressure with the angle as I need it. I have several triangulated basketry and a stabilizer DOM bar. The bar is another thing in the making it needs to function around the steering arm and not bump into the tire at full lock.

This is probably why I never came across this setup when researching the subject. There is a lot going in 1 place.

I will be adding the brace to the other side as we discussed earlier. It will need to have some Heim joints so I can remove it. I want to put the engine and trans in from the bottom because of the height issue. This bar will be tied in to a much beefier bumpstop mount on the passenger side.


To be honest I have tried to get the spring to go down 3" using my engine hoist and some ratchet straps and I haven't got there yet. Don't know how often they will actually come in contact.

 

[Tan Zuk]

Doing a little flexing to get the proper setting for the DS suspension components. The front shackle is at 46* and the DS leaf is getting close to a flat position. This is where I will set the bumpstop contact point.

The shocks still have 2” of up travel to go. The clearance between the Panhard Mount and the (shock forward movement is 1.5”).

To be honest I was more concerned of the shock hitting the mount at full flex because the shock moves forward and the mount is stationary. Worked out and even have enough room for the head of a ¾ bolt to fit.

Loaded the weight of the motor back in the engine bay also. This brought my steering rod angles in at 3* . Shouldn’t see any bumpsteer with those angles.

The suspension parts have been made for a while now. They are now going through the altering stage for better clearances or better ideas as more of the parts are added and watching the suspension cycle.

I have decided to remove the Heim joint from the PS Panhard Bar. This will be replaced with a sleeve to accept a pair of leaf spring bushings welded to the Panhard Bar.

The reason for the change:

The Panhard Bar has a 5* bend in it and it tends to want to flop back and forth this will eliminate this issue. Really didn’t want to hear that noise when I was driving either. This will also make what movement there is with suspension cycling not as rigid.

This means I will have to modify the PS Panhard Bar Mount for the larger sleeve bushing and offset the front portion for new alignment.

These types of changes add a lot of time probably why it seems like there isn’t much progress made. There are a lot of factors to take into consideration especially when you start cycling the suspension. Better to catch the issues now then be non flexible with your design and have to do it all over again later.

This particular area of the build has taken me 6 month to engineer and make the parts. It's finally time to start burning in parts.

 

[Tan Zuk]

Burned in the Panhard/Bumpstop mount in at 12*

Burned in the Modified Ford Shock Tower at 8*

The lower portion of the Bumpstop mount was boxed in. This was to conceal the nuts holding the Heim Joint and the Bumpstop in place. This will also give it more strength and add an additional place for a support bracket for the 1.25 DOM Front Brace Tube.

Working on the bracket that is on the shock side of the mount. This has many compound angles and will be a full box. I will also try and add some holes with support tubes.

 

[agjake11]

it might just be me but it seems like you have really limited the flex with how low the bump stops are. is that due to the design need?

 

[Tan Zuk]

Panhard Mount Bracket being made. This is the 1st of 3 brackets.

This is the lager bracket and will be partially concealed with the shock. This will make it not as noticeable.

Steps:

Starting pieces needed to be tacked in place because of their irregular shape.
Matting box pieces will be fitted and welded in place.
Bracket will then be removed to weld the inside
Holes will be popped in and support tubes added while it is out.
Final Bracket burn in

Note: Rear side plate still needs to be made to complete the full boxed bracket..

 

[buRRp]

I can't get enough of this build. It's great.

 

[Tan Zuk]

it might just be me but it seems like you have really limited the flex with how low the bump stops are. is that due to the design need?

There is 3" between the bumpstop and the pad. I have 4.5" of shock travel which should be plenty of up travel.

This is not going to be a rock crawler or a massive flexer. That was not the intent for the build. I also live in Florida and it is very flat here and hard pressed to find any big rocks to cliumb over.

I have flexed it 16" which is way more then it will ever see as a pavement pounder.

Thanks for the question

 

[agjake11]

it might just be me but it seems like you have really limited the flex with how low the bump stops are. is that due to the design need?

There is 3" between the bumpstop and the pad. I have 4.5" of shock travel which should be plenty of up travel.

This is not going to be a rock crawler or a massive flexer. That was not the intent for the build. I also live in Florida and it is very flat here and hard pressed to find any big rocks to cliumb over.

I have flexed it 16" which is way more then it will ever see as a pavement pounder.

Thanks for the question

scale was off from the perspective in the pics basically. thanks man. and keep up the great work

 

[Tan Zuk]

it might just be me but it seems like you have really limited the flex with how low the bump stops are. is that due to the design need?

There is 3" between the bumpstop and the pad. I have 4.5" of shock travel which should be plenty of up travel.

This is not going to be a rock crawler or a massive flexer. That was not the intent for the build. I also live in Florida and it is very flat here and hard pressed to find any big rocks to cliumb over.

I have flexed it 16" which is way more then it will ever see as a pavement pounder.

Thanks for the question

scale was off from the perspective in the pics basically. thanks man. and keep up the great work

No worries,

It is very difficult to see everything in a picture. I try and lable eveything as best I can. If there is any question I don't have any problem in an explination..

Thanks again for the question and your support.

 

[Tan Zuk]

This has been an interesting bracket to make. There were no parallel surfaces on any of the pieces and there were a few compound angles. The shapes looked more like a kite then a bracket.

The first 2 steps are done.

Steps:

Starting pieces needed to be tacked in place because of their irregular shape.
Mating box pieces will be fitted and welded in place.
Bracket will then be removed to weld the inside
Holes will be popped in and support tubes added while it is out.
Final Bracket burn in



The pieces will be welded together while it is still on the frame. The tacks will then be cut off the frame to make it easier to work on bracket for the holes, installing the support tubes and weld the inside for strength.