P0449-How To Replace Evap. Vent Solenoid

[OLDZ71]

So here is my saga, thus far. I was able to remove the truck bed but since I'm doing this solo without the benefit of air tools...this took the better part of an afternoon for me to struggle with the caked/rusted-on 8 bolts that hold on the bed. Since I don't have the benefit of having 3 extra guys at my disposal, I was able to "leg press" the driver side of the bed up while a girlfriend put a couple 2 x 4's between the frame and the bed. Even with positioning, this did not give me a tremendous amount of room to work. The next problem was my nine year old quick connects (slow DISconnects) which I still could not get off the purge valve - the wiring harness was relatively easy though.

Eventually I cut the dang hose and removed the valve and the hose. Now I can get a better look at the original part and found that the part was cracked - I guess that's not unexpected after 9 years of freeze-thaw cycles.
Found the exact OEM replacement part on Amazon for $17 plus another $17 for overnite delivery - about the same $34 I would have payed elsewhere w/o the overnite. I purchased after searching for a good price on the newly designed set up and decided to go the cheap route. ( AC Delco 214-1091 cannister purge valve for 2003 silverado 5.3 gas).

Went to Pep Boys to get the hosing. They said the heater hose would not last in this application but did not have the recommended hosing. Went to Chevy dealership parts dept. Guy at the counter said I could not just buy tubing and I would have to get the valve as well in a package for $80. A mechanic happened by and the counter guy asked him if heater hose would work - he says "yeah, it's too thick to kink and they have used it on all the replacements they've done for this." Counter guy gets me 6 feet of heater hose of correct size and gives it to me for FREE. LESSON: NOT EVERY CHEVY DEALER IS OUT TO SCREW YOU AND.. if there comes a time when I can't fix something myself, I will take it for service at this dealership...I didn't even buy the truck from this dealership.

Back to the truck: Hose to purge valve and other end to cannister with screw clamps..not much different than anyone else here has done. Check and clear the code with OBD scanner. Restart truck 3 more times and no code. YEAH. baby!!!
Now, if I use the bracket to put the valve back in the same place, the heater hose will kink b/c of the immediate elbow that has to take place. So instead, I moved the ground wire from the gas neck to between the struts of the bracket for the bed mounts. Now I have more room in front of the bracket to zip tie the valve in place on the bed mount, and have the original wiring harness hook up, and keep the hose straight. Zip tied the hose to a cross member on the frame and rechecked again for code...still good and remounted the bed just with assistance to remove the 2x4's.

What remains to be seen is if I will pass the Pennsylvania inspection that is required every year

And, the openings at the bottom of the purge valve are more exposed that they were with the original mounting bracket and location...don't know if this will make it malfunction sooner. The zip ties should make this easier if I have to do it again, although next time I will likely use the redesigned part.

I'll Keep ya posted and many thanks to all for your postings for this problem!!!

AC Delco 214-1091 $17
next day shipping $17
hose clamps $1.79
heater hose FREE Kudos, thanks, and free advertisement to and Day Chevy part and service dept in Monroeville, PA
satisfaction of DIYer priceless

 

[Bigredmariner]

Perfect, glad you got it fixed and thanks for posting about your success.

 

[NoLife1980]

So here is my saga, thus far. I was able to remove the truck bed but since I'm doing this solo without the benefit of air tools...this took the better part of an afternoon for me to struggle with the caked/rusted-on 8 bolts that hold on the bed. Since I don't have the benefit of having 3 extra guys at my disposal, I was able to "leg press" the driver side of the bed up while a girlfriend put a couple 2 x 4's between the frame and the bed. Even with positioning, this did not give me a tremendous amount of room to work. The next problem was my nine year old quick connects (slow DISconnects) which I still could not get off the purge valve - the wiring harness was relatively easy though.

Eventually I cut the dang hose and removed the valve and the hose. Now I can get a better look at the original part and found that the part was cracked - I guess that's not unexpected after 9 years of freeze-thaw cycles.
Found the exact OEM replacement part on Amazon for $17 plus another $17 for overnite delivery - about the same $34 I would have payed elsewhere w/o the overnite. I purchased after searching for a good price on the newly designed set up and decided to go the cheap route. ( AC Delco 214-1091 cannister purge valve for 2003 silverado 5.3 gas).

Went to Pep Boys to get the hosing. They said the heater hose would not last in this application but did not have the recommended hosing. Went to Chevy dealership parts dept. Guy at the counter said I could not just buy tubing and I would have to get the valve as well in a package for $80. A mechanic happened by and the counter guy asked him if heater hose would work - he says "yeah, it's too thick to kink and they have used it on all the replacements they've done for this." Counter guy gets me 6 feet of heater hose of correct size and gives it to me for FREE. LESSON: NOT EVERY CHEVY DEALER IS OUT TO SCREW YOU AND.. if there comes a time when I can't fix something myself, I will take it for service at this dealership...I didn't even buy the truck from this dealership.

Back to the truck: Hose to purge valve and other end to cannister with screw clamps..not much different than anyone else here has done. Check and clear the code with OBD scanner. Restart truck 3 more times and no code. YEAH. baby!!!
Now, if I use the bracket to put the valve back in the same place, the heater hose will kink b/c of the immediate elbow that has to take place. So instead, I moved the ground wire from the gas neck to between the struts of the bracket for the bed mounts. Now I have more room in front of the bracket to zip tie the valve in place on the bed mount, and have the original wiring harness hook up, and keep the hose straight. Zip tied the hose to a cross member on the frame and rechecked again for code...still good and remounted the bed just with assistance to remove the 2x4's.

What remains to be seen is if I will pass the Pennsylvania inspection that is required every year

And, the openings at the bottom of the purge valve are more exposed that they were with the original mounting bracket and location...don't know if this will make it malfunction sooner. The zip ties should make this easier if I have to do it again, although next time I will likely use the redesigned part.

I'll Keep ya posted and many thanks to all for your postings for this problem!!!

AC Delco 214-1091 $17
next day shipping $17
hose clamps $1.79
heater hose FREE Kudos, thanks, and free advertisement to and Day Chevy part and service dept in Monroeville, PA
satisfaction of DIYer priceless

You're my hero... Thank you man, thank you, you mention which truck you have. I have same exactly one "OLDZ71" 2003 sound strange be cause I still thinking is new for me. One more question if you don’t mind. It is no way to change this purge valve with out removing partially the bad of the truck?

 

[OLDZ71]

For me, no. The purge valve is in a tight placed on a bracket between the bed and the cab of the truck. The only thing that came off relatively easy was the wiring harness. The hose has an immediate 90 degree angle on it and my quick connect on this hose was too brittle to come off easily. I could unbolt the braket from the truck frame but couldn't slide the bracket off - again brittle plastic. All of this is complicated by the fact that you're working at an arms length with no leverage and most of the time, if you can get your hand on it you can't see what you're doing, and vice versa, with very little room to manuever any parts. For me, removing the bolts from the truck bed afforded me just enough room to maneuver. Still, in the end, I got so disgusted with the hose, that I just cut it so I could get the part out and it was only then that I could see exactly what the part looked like.

Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts a couple days before you plan to remove the bed. The 4 bolts on the front are easy to get too. The four on the back are somewhat hidden and you'll need a socket extension to reach through the framing to get to them.

DON'T FORGET: to remove your wiring harness for the tail lights (under the rear bumper just to the driver side of center)
AND: loosen your gas tank neck ( right at the gas cap). two torx screws and one of those plastic snap in "bolts"
AND: remove your gas tank ground from the frame (small wire runs from the gas tank neck to the bracket that the front bolt of the bed is attached to).

If you can get a couple guys to help you completely lift the bed off, I'm sure this would simplify the whole process, and leave time for pizza and beer when the job is done.
Good luck, NOLIFE1980

 

[Dartboy]

I'm surprised at how much these parts move around on different trucks. Mine is an '05 6.5ft bed Extended Cab 5.3L. Vent solenoid was on the tail end of the gas tank, easily accessible, Purge solenoid was up on the top of the engine under the plastic cover, again easy to replace.

 

[tarzan]

Thanks for the evap info

 

[Bigredmariner]

No problem, a lot of folks have shared info here.

 

[niiice]

Hi everyone! I just joined today and found this forum because I googled for that P0449 Code. Just bought my '05 Silverado 5.3L at an auction. Nice truck and nobody touched it because of the engine light. Truck ran only on 7 cylinders. Replaced a coil this morning. Now it's on to the evap solenoid. Great write-up btw. Confused though on the whole '06 Suburban part. Which on do I get now?

 

[Bigredmariner]

Hi everyone! I just joined today and found this forum because I googled for that P0449 Code. Just bought my '05 Silverado 5.3L at an auction. Nice truck and nobody touched it because of the engine light. Truck ran only on 7 cylinders. Replaced a coil this morning. Now it's on to the evap solenoid. Great write-up btw. Confused though on the whole '06 Suburban part. Which on do I get now?

Get either or the cheapest one, there are a few part numbers that will work without any issues. One you will have to buy some hose to extend the filter box, the other one comes with the stuff already on it.

This is similar to the one I installed. http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-2082-Canister-Solenoid-Valve/dp/B000S2SKIY/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Model=Silverado%201500|491&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Chevrolet|47&Year=2005|2005&carId=002

You'll need some hose and clamps but that should do it.

 

[NoLife1980]

For me, no. The purge valve is in a tight placed on a bracket between the bed and the cab of the truck. The only thing that came off relatively easy was the wiring harness. The hose has an immediate 90 degree angle on it and my quick connect on this hose was too brittle to come off easily. I could unbolt the braket from the truck frame but couldn't slide the bracket off - again brittle plastic. All of this is complicated by the fact that you're working at an arms length with no leverage and most of the time, if you can get your hand on it you can't see what you're doing, and vice versa, with very little room to manuever any parts. For me, removing the bolts from the truck bed afforded me just enough room to maneuver. Still, in the end, I got so disgusted with the hose, that I just cut it so I could get the part out and it was only then that I could see exactly what the part looked like.

Spray some penetrating oil on the bolts a couple days before you plan to remove the bed. The 4 bolts on the front are easy to get too. The four on the back are somewhat hidden and you'll need a socket extension to reach through the framing to get to them.

DON'T FORGET: to remove your wiring harness for the tail lights (under the rear bumper just to the driver side of center)
AND: loosen your gas tank neck ( right at the gas cap). two torx screws and one of those plastic snap in "bolts"
AND: remove your gas tank ground from the frame (small wire runs from the gas tank neck to the bracket that the front bolt of the bed is attached to).

If you can get a couple guys to help you completely lift the bed off, I'm sure this would simplify the whole process, and leave time for pizza and beer when the job is done.
Good luck, NOLIFE1980

First of all I want to thank you and the person which open this grate forum to helping me out. I am going to do this next Thursday and will let you know how I did it. OLDZ71 I assume the rest of the parts beside purge valve remain the same and it is same set up as the original from the factory of the truck. This fact reduce the price from $200.00 parts plus $140.00 replace the parts to $17.00 plus $3.95 S/H plus pizza and beer. I like that very much. You don’t mind me to ask you other question if I will have other problems with this truck, you’re money saver man. To bad I don’t have you email address.
NoLife1980