Adjustable fuel pressure regulator

azmidget91

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This is on an older EEC EFI 4cyl with an oem turbo setup (although everything but the EEC is upgraded) I am mainly worried about if I rev it up will it go lean. I know I can set the idle fuel pressure but not sure if this unit will automatically adjust. I have never built anything with EFI so it's a bit new to me (all I know about tuning EFI is I email some guy and he emails me a new tune for my truck haha)

Since the engine is not ready to be started yet I am just curious if this regulator will work since I have always just done carb setups and set the regulator to 6psi and it was good to go. I am confident I can figure this all out on my own, its just that I can't until it can run and was wanting some input before I got to that point. Would hate to start it and have to shut it off because it runs to lean. It will have a wideband for tuning it, basically just a poor mans tune with adjusting fuel pressure, timing, and boost. I know it should run with this regulator since when I bought the engine the guy was still pulling it out of his car when I picked it up. But I just feel like a regulator without a vacuum reference point is not going to be the ideal setup.
 

Texas1911

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I would buy an Aeromotive regulator and properly plumb it in with a large return feed.

What sort of power are you going for, what size is the turbo, and how much boost pressure are you going to run?
 

azmidget91

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Engine specs pulled from the craigslist ad I got it from. As of right now it will be about 300hp with 20psi

1979 Ford 2.3 block and crank and rods crank has been turned .25mm on the rods and mains and has been assembled with matching clevite bearings.

The block is 30 over with forged trw pistons with perfect circle chrome moly rings .


The cylinder head is a stage 1 ported turbo head off of an 88 turbocoupe and is loaded with trw lifters and sealed power rocker arms and a comp cams turbo cam with new bearings and an esslinger billet aluminum adjustable cam gear i also have the esslinger tool and instructions. The head is held onto the block with a felpro 1035 head gasket and arp undercut head studs


The intake manifold is off an 84 thunderbird and has been machined to fit all the same sensors as the 88 turbocoupe (since i run an 88 turbocoupe harness and fuel system)


The fuel rail and injectors are off an 88 turbocoupe 36lb brown tops with a holley adjustable fuel pressure regulator attached


It also has a melling hphv oil pump, steel braded lines and a new wp, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, new auxilery shaft bearings, freeze plugs u name it. all painted no cruddy motor. capable of holding up to 500+hp as im selling it. The motor does have a stinger style turbo manifold on it that is cracked but can be fixed and a t3/t4 hybrid turbo with steel braided lines and a wastegate
 

Texas1911

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Those injectors are too small for that kind of power. They'd support about 260 - 270whp before they run beyond what you want for a duty cycle. That's why he's running higher fuel pressure, to boost them close enough to support it.

I'd swap them for some 50 - 72 lb. injectors if you plan on making the most out of that turbo. Presuming it's a T04E / T3 with a 50-ish trim you'd be looking at around 400whp max, but with the older 2.3L it'd probably be closer to 350 - 380whp. A smaller T04B compressor housing and wheel package would be closer to 320whp.
 

azmidget91

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Yes the turbo is the highest factor of the engine. (meaning its probably not up to its potential) BUT its the turbo it came with and I will use it until it blows or I feel I want to upgrade it. Those injectors will support 300hp easily on this engine, they are the OEM injectors and is what everyone uses untill they want over 300hp. the limiting factor is that is has a Vain Air Meter instead of a MAF and upgrading the injectors will not yield any more power while still using the VAM and stock computer. So the 36lb injectors will stay, 45 psi at idle is stock but need the higher flowing pump for the extra fuel when running more boost.
 

Texas1911

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Yes the turbo is the highest factor of the engine. (meaning its probably not up to its potential) BUT its the turbo it came with and I will use it until it blows or I feel I want to upgrade it. Those injectors will support 300hp easily on this engine, they are the OEM injectors and is what everyone uses untill they want over 300hp. the limiting factor is that is has a Vain Air Meter instead of a MAF and upgrading the injectors will not yield any more power while still using the VAM and stock computer. So the 36lb injectors will stay, 45 psi at idle is stock but need the higher flowing pump for the extra fuel when running more boost.

300 HP at the engine is doable, 300whp the injectors are going to be pushing over 100% duty cycle.

My STI has 565cc injectors to support the factory 305 HP @ engine, and at 18 lbs. of boost my duty cycles are already pushing over 80% ... but that's closer to 350 HP now.
 

azmidget91

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Say what you want but several people with SVO's and turbocoupes run the same setup and are getting 300hp

Here is a break down that many people with these engines go by

What mods do I need for "X" hp?
All combos are assumed to be utilizing the best "stock" setup which includes 35lb injectors, large vam, 87-88 ECU, stock or ranger roller cam, and most importantly, a good tune.

-Stock engine, stock intercooler, no significant mods, 15-20psi will produce roughly 170-215rwhp.
-Above setup plus cone filter, 3" exhaust, 15-20psi will produce roughly 200-245rwhp.
-Above setup plus front mount intercooler, more timing/boost, elevated fuel pressure, 255 lph fuel pump, ~22-23 psi will produce roughly 265-280rwhp.
-Above setup plus ported or gutted intakes, mildly ported head, ~22-23 psi will produce roughly 275-300rwhp.
-Above setup plus professionally ported head flowing 215+cfm on the intake, extremely high fuel pressure, ~22-23 psi will produce roughly 275-330rwhp.

Below requires upgraded injectors, piggyback ecu tuner or stand-alone ecu, and preferably conversion to mass-air along with race fuel or alky injection.

-
Stock engine, turbo header, professionally ported head flowing 215+cfm, cone filter, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, ported/gutted intake, large aftermarket cam, ~25-30 psi will produce roughly 350-450rwhp.

Below requires many unmentioned items plus a standalone EFI system or a very firm grasp of tuning a piggyback system.
-Above mods plus Upgraded Rods/Pistons, 225+cfm iron head or Esslinger Aluminum D port head, ~25-30 psi will produce roughly 400-525rwhp.
-Above mods plus Esslinger SVO head, Stage III or larger Bo-Port cam, ~25-30 psi will produce roughly 500-600rwhp.
-Above mods plus Esslinger ARCA head, Stage IV or larger Bo-Port cam, 2.65L+ stroker engine, ~28-35 psi will produce roughly 650-800rwhp.

 

drperry

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Say what you want but several people with SVO's and turbocoupes run the same setup and are getting 300hp

Here is a break down that many people with these engines go by

What mods do I need for "X" hp?
All combos are assumed to be utilizing the best "stock" setup which includes 35lb injectors, large vam, 87-88 ECU, stock or ranger roller cam, and most importantly, a good tune.

-Stock engine, stock intercooler, no significant mods, 15-20psi will produce roughly 170-215rwhp.
-Above setup plus cone filter, 3" exhaust, 15-20psi will produce roughly 200-245rwhp.
-Above setup plus front mount intercooler, more timing/boost, elevated fuel pressure, 255 lph fuel pump, ~22-23 psi will produce roughly 265-280rwhp.
-Above setup plus ported or gutted intakes, mildly ported head, ~22-23 psi will produce roughly 275-300rwhp.
-Above setup plus professionally ported head flowing 215+cfm on the intake, extremely high fuel pressure, ~22-23 psi will produce roughly 275-330rwhp.

Below requires upgraded injectors, piggyback ecu tuner or stand-alone ecu, and preferably conversion to mass-air along with race fuel or alky injection.
-Stock engine, turbo header, professionally ported head flowing 215+cfm, cone filter, 3" exhaust, 255 lph fuel pump, ported/gutted intake, large aftermarket cam, ~25-30 psi will produce roughly 350-450rwhp.

Below requires many unmentioned items plus a standalone EFI system or a very firm grasp of tuning a piggyback system.
-Above mods plus Upgraded Rods/Pistons, 225+cfm iron head or Esslinger Aluminum D port head, ~25-30 psi will produce roughly 400-525rwhp.
-Above mods plus Esslinger SVO head, Stage III or larger Bo-Port cam, ~25-30 psi will produce roughly 500-600rwhp.
-Above mods plus Esslinger ARCA head, Stage IV or larger Bo-Port cam, 2.65L+ stroker engine, ~28-35 psi will produce roughly 650-800rwhp.


Just because they ARE doing it, doesn't mean they aren't pushing the injectors past their duty cycle.

They'll still work, but they'll wear out much faster.

Most of the people with the HP bug, probably out grow the injectors before they wear out.
 

azmidget91

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Exactly, these will do for now, this is going in a 1932 truck with no ac, no heat, no radio, no cushions, no paint....wont get driven a ton before I decide to upgrade
 

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