What did you do to your truck today?
- Thread starter Zembonez
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Bernie
Guest
Wow Bernie, you must be able to type really fast to have typed that one!Drove the truck about 320 miles today, round-trip from my house in Fredericksburg, VA to the Naval Postgraduate School in Shepherdstown, WV so I could visit with my wife. (She's a student there for 2 weeks every 3 months, working on her master's in Homeland Security)
Had a little problem on the way home though... I ran out of fuel about 30 miles from the house. With a 3/4 full rear tank.
Could it be a dirty sending unit for the gauge????
That's possible of course, but I tend to doubt it because there are two sending units, one for each tank, so both would have to have the same problem for this to happen.
I suspect it's either a problem with the wiring, the module that switches between the tanks and controls the gauge, the BCM, or possibly the ignition switch itself, since cycling the key a few times can make the gauge suddenly work again.
As with any intermittent electrical problem, tracking it down can be a real bitch, especially when working by yourself. Kinda hard to see what the gauge is doing while you're under the truck wiggling wires.
davbell22602
Stihl Chainsaw Man
Figuring out a way to wash/clean rear/trany oil out of the bed of my truck. It smells like rear gear oil from hauling the 67 back to winchester in pieces.
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Bernie
Guest
Just go to one of those coin-op car washes with the high pressure spray gun and hose it out.
davbell22602
Stihl Chainsaw Man
Just go to one of those coin-op car washes with the high pressure spray gun and hose it out.
I thought about doing that. But had the idea to soak it up first with kitty litter first then hose it out at coin-op wash place.
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Bernie
Guest
Just go to one of those coin-op car washes with the high pressure spray gun and hose it out.
I thought about doing that. But had the idea to soak it up first with kitty litter first then hose it out at coin-op wash place.
I guess that would depend on how much is back there. Sawdust works better than kitty litter for this though.
Drove it to work...
agjake11
Oral the Coal
Drove it to autozone and HEB and replaced the fuse i blew for my power windows in my fuzeblock FZ-1 when i got there since it blew on the way
You might want to check the window tracks for any obstruction or binding if it blows again.
thanks man. my passenger on is binding actually. it got glue up at the top when i had the old tint stripped and i fixed it so the new stuff could be put on but now its stuck again. its partially the design of the tracks along with i added aftermarket power to the stock manual ones. its just too hot to open it up and fix it yet. though it did happen when rolling the driver side up which hasnt ever given me any problems
Could be that the binding on the passenger side has been slowly weakening the fuse (partial melt) until it was ready to "go" with even a normal load on it. Or, since they're aftermarket power units added to manual windows, something in the harness could have worn through and touched ground.
How'd the fuse look? Was it completely cooked (black or otherwise "wiped out" or did it look like it just sorta melted a little bit? If it just sorta melted a tiny bit, it's probably the binding. If it blew "hard" it's a short somewhere.
the fuse was black but only slightly blown and looked to still be partailly connected. it wasnt a complete blow like ive seen before. you maybe right about the bind but the system has like 3 fuses and a relay on it and the fuse that blew was the one on the battery so im ruling out a short. if its not too hot later i might try and look at the passenger door.
Nothing yet... But dammit... I need to change the fluids soon... And drive it to get me a hair cut 
B
Bernie
Guest
Drove it to autozone and HEB and replaced the fuse i blew for my power windows in my fuzeblock FZ-1 when i got there since it blew on the way
You might want to check the window tracks for any obstruction or binding if it blows again.
thanks man. my passenger on is binding actually. it got glue up at the top when i had the old tint stripped and i fixed it so the new stuff could be put on but now its stuck again. its partially the design of the tracks along with i added aftermarket power to the stock manual ones. its just too hot to open it up and fix it yet. though it did happen when rolling the driver side up which hasnt ever given me any problems
Could be that the binding on the passenger side has been slowly weakening the fuse (partial melt) until it was ready to "go" with even a normal load on it. Or, since they're aftermarket power units added to manual windows, something in the harness could have worn through and touched ground.
How'd the fuse look? Was it completely cooked (black or otherwise "wiped out" or did it look like it just sorta melted a little bit? If it just sorta melted a tiny bit, it's probably the binding. If it blew "hard" it's a short somewhere.
the fuse was black but only slightly blown and looked to still be partailly connected. it wasnt a complete blow like ive seen before. you maybe right about the bind but the system has like 3 fuses and a relay on it and the fuse that blew was the one on the battery so im ruling out a short. if its not too hot later i might try and look at the passenger door.
On the battery... but feeding what? The motors or the relay? You said three fuses, so I assume you have one for each motor, and one for the relay.
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