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63chevystepside

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I don't know what it has -i had told burt and that's what he said-but my gauge reads compression and on the inner part where it says 180 it says 12???---ok on the lifter thing-I'm kinda lost on this-i thought about going and for the heck of it get some 105 octane-just a few gallons and see what happens-the white smoke is'nt rings?
 

66nova

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105 isn't going to do anything for you if it is "knocking" at idle. Like hotrod said, I don't think you have 12:1 compression unless either someone took a crap load off the deck, heads or you have some domed pistons. No if anyone of those is the case and valve to piston clearance wasn't checked then I have seen motors that had valves hitting pistons just slightly and it didn't cause a major issue until it was wound up.

If you truly have white smoke and not blue smoke then you have water/antifreeze somewhere.

As a general rule:
Oil is blue
Water is white
Fuel is black
 

63chevystepside

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105 isn't going to do anything for you if it is "knocking" at idle. Like hotrod said, I don't think you have 12:1 compression unless either someone took a crap load off the deck, heads or you have some domed pistons. No if anyone of those is the case and valve to piston clearance wasn't checked then I have seen motors that had valves hitting pistons just slightly and it didn't cause a major issue until it was wound up.

If you truly have white smoke and not blue smoke then you have water/antifreeze somewhere.

As a general rule:
Oil is blue
Water is white
Fuel is black
ok-What do i do then?You think it's just a rod?---What kind of compression would it be to make 12 to 1?
 

63chevystepside

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Should i get stronger springs?-it made this same noise with a comp. cam 268-that's what i pulled out of it.
 

66nova

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I don't think you can use cylinder pressure to accurately calculate compression ratio. If so, I have never seen a formula. It is more a comparison test.

Without hearing the noise, I can't really tell you what you need. I doubt spring are this issue either. Again, I am worried about that smoke.

If you don't have a video camera, can you beg or borrow one? I think posting a video would give us the most valuable information.
 

hotrodpc

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Do you think is JUST a rod?? :crackup: JUST a rod??? Whats wrong with your ride dude??? ahh nothing, its JUST a rod !!!! :crackup: Sorry for laughing, but thanks for the laugh. I needed it. A rod is pretty serious 66, its not JUST a rod. But anyway....

I would try to rule out the idea its a rod and go from there. I think 66 suggested a cam so we could here it, and that would be great. You know your cam turn 1 time to your cranks 2 times. So if you are decent at math, you can figure of if this is a valvetrain knock or a connecting rod knock. Keep in mind the valve will open and close one time to 2 crank revolutions, so a rod knock will be twice as fast as a valvetrain knock. Also using a stethescope, you can listen in the oil pan, and the valve cover. Either way, if you have elimated accesories as the noise, then its either valvetrain or cranktrain. You need to narrow it down. For the sake of being positive, I am going to suggest and hope its just valve train. And as I suggested, it could be recessed valves if the heads don't have hardened exhaust seats. Some people say that is bullshit and it doesn't happen. I got news, those people that say that are full of bullshit and I have a set of heads to prove it. Every exhaust valve is recessed 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. Had I kept driving the vehicle, it eventually would have gotton bad enough, it would have lost a valve keeper and sucked a valve. It DOES happen.
 

63chevystepside

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It does sound like one knocking noise that happens once a turn-it does'nt sound like it's making the "NOISE" 4 times a turn...
 

hotrodpc

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Fast knock would be con rod. Slower knock would be valvetrain. Nothing should knock 4 times a turn unless you have multiple valve issues or multiple con rod issues.
 

63chevystepside

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Do you think is JUST a rod?? :crackup: JUST a rod??? Whats wrong with your ride dude??? ahh nothing, its JUST a rod !!!! :crackup: Sorry for laughing, but thanks for the laugh. I needed it. A rod is pretty serious 66, its not JUST a rod. But anyway....

I would try to rule out the idea its a rod and go from there. I think 66 suggested a cam so we could here it, and that would be great. You know your cam turn 1 time to your cranks 2 times. So if you are decent at math, you can figure of if this is a valvetrain knock or a connecting rod knock. Keep in mind the valve will open and close one time to 2 crank revolutions, so a rod knock will be twice as fast as a valvetrain knock. Also using a stethescope, you can listen in the oil pan, and the valve cover. Either way, if you have elimated accesories as the noise, then its either valvetrain or cranktrain. You need to narrow it down. For the sake of being positive, I am going to suggest and hope its just valve train. And as I suggested, it could be recessed valves if the heads don't have hardened exhaust seats. Some people say that is bullshit and it doesn't happen. I got news, those people that say that are full of bullshit and I have a set of heads to prove it. Every exhaust valve is recessed 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. Had I kept driving the vehicle, it eventually would have gotton bad enough, it would have lost a valve keeper and sucked a valve. It DOES happen.
A rod is a big deal-i like to tinker but i havent gotten to play yet.The engine is a 75.-I don't know about the recessed valves/harden seat thing?i heard if it don't have harden seats you have to run higher octane and that's all is that right?---i will see what i can do about the video thing.
 

63chevystepside

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Fast knock would be con rod. Slower knock would be valvetrain. Nothing should knock 4 times a turn unless you have multiple valve issues or multiple con rod issues.
Just once a turn and it speeds up if you giv it gas
 

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