P0449-How To Replace Evap. Vent Solenoid

Rtibbs

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Hello, I'm also new to the forum. I recently bought a 2007 Chevy Tahoe LTZ with 135k miles. It needed the standard 100k mile maintenance, which I expected so I've spent some $$ getting it taken care of. However the check engine light has been staying on for 3-4 months now and the shop I took it to is saying the evaporator canister and evaporator solenoid are bad and need to be replaced with a price tag of $334. Yikes! After reading through the last 19 pages on this forum, I'm wondering if I'd be better off just replacing the one-piece solenoid rather than switching to the newer two-piece? :dunno: What would you suggest? Also is it fairly easy to do on a Tahoe? Hoping so. Thanks!



Leach5, read my post on 12-22-2012.
To sum it up....The truck comes with a single port evap solenoid. They didn't last very long so GM came up with an expensive "fix" by installing a dual port evap solenoid and moving the filter above the transmission. When I went to get mine fixed they wanted around $500 to fix it. I got the original part (single port solenoid) from autozone for $23.99 and it took less than 5 minutes to switch out.
Seven months later and my check engine light has not been back on. I would also go ahead and change out the purge valve on your intake. Both parts took me less than 10 minutes to change out. If I have to change out the solenoid once a year it will still be cheaper than getting the GM fix.

Check what code you have coming up...If it's P0449 the part you need is a Canister vent valve solenoid...69.99 at autozone.
 

bspalding

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What about for a 2000 Silverado Z71 4x4 LS

I have had the P0449 for a couple of years now. I know what part(s) to buy to resolve, but I simply can not "get to" the solenoid/canister on my Truck.
I just want to make sure that I'm not "missing something"....It appears I have to either raise the Bed or Drop the Tank, neither of which is an option for me (I can work on my Truck, but that's beyond my skill set).
Thoughts? Advice?
I should say, I'm about to turn over 400k on this Puppy and it's the BEST Truck I've ever owned. Bought it new in May of '01 with 96 Total Miles on it.
ONLY issue is P0449, and I'm now getting P0420 & P0430, but I'm just living with the Catalyst Efficiency codes...
 

OLDZ71

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None of what I've done is really in my wheelhouse for auto knowledge. Look closely at just how far you have to move the truck bed. Fortunately on my 2003 I did not have to move it far, loosened the bolts, and "leg pressed" my truck bed over a little to afford enough room to do what needed to be done. Leg pressed it back after I did my repairs. BTW I'm female. Just make sure you don't pinch any hoses or wires under the bed before you rebolt. Penetrating oil was VERY helpful for the bolts.
 

mleo40

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My turn now!

Just bought a 2004 Sierra 1500 4.8L and it's giving this code (among others).

If I get an exact replacement (the cheap one), is there still hose cutting going on or can I pull the existing hose off the existing canister and put the exiting hose onto the new canister?

Thanks!

EDIT: I looked today and my truck has already been converted to the new style 2-piece setup.

Can I replace it with the cheap original without issue?
 
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Dartboy

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You should be able to hook up the old style (without the hose) with no problem, maybe it will eventually clog with under truck dirt- which is reportedly why they changed to the remote filter. If you think the solenoid itself is bad, it's not hard to pry it apart and mount the new solenoid onto the old housing.
 

mleo40

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2004 GMC Sierra 1500 4.8l

Today was a busy day in my truck fixing world, but as far as the P0455 code, it is gone.

My "new" truck already had the new modified valve and separate filter, but I didn't want to pay $100+ for a new one since this is not my primary vehicle.

I purchased the $23 Autozone replacement and the connections all worked fine, I just now have a useless hose running up to the filter for no reason.

I was able to clear the code with a tester and so far so good. I'll put some real miles on it next week and hopefully I can pass an inspection now.

For the record, I did not have to remove the tank or the bed on my truck...the canister was easily accessed under the back of the truck.
 

Dartboy

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It seems that the solenoid moved around A LOT depending on year and bodystyle/cab/bed size.
 

mleo40

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Well, the light came on again.

I've replaced the canister and now the purge valve. Any other advise?

Oh...and the gas cap.
 

Dartboy

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Check the wires. Mine turned out to be a pinhole that corroded the wire up near the (purge?)valve on the engine. If you had the new style vent valve, like I did. I think both our trucks experienced this issue before our ownership. Probably a tech investigating the issue pierced the insulation testing, then corrosion set in.
 

muzzle48

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P0449

I clicked on the link for the video and it gives me an error. Is it posted anywhere else on the web?

Tim
 

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