

Unlit. You light it with the match. Holding burning kerosene would be dumb, Jeff.

Unlit. You light it with the match. Holding burning kerosene would be dumb, Jeff.
I agree with burning kerosene is bad and since it is a liquid would be hard to hold onto even if it wasn't lit, but you stated to toss in a match, you didn't say a lit match. I think that is where the confusion came into play.
I saw what you intended to say, but there are others on here that are a little bit slow.![]()
Riiiight...If you disconnect the alternator and the draw goes away, it's obviously a fault in the alternator... To state the obvious.
I'm having my brother bring his truck over and try his alternator. His truck is a 01 Tahoe. If it won't bolt on I'll figure out how to get "hooked up". To see if i can replicate it.
Unlit. You light it with the match. Holding burning kerosene would be dumb, Jeff.
I agree with burning kerosene is bad and since it is a liquid would be hard to hold onto even if it wasn't lit, but you stated to toss in a match, you didn't say a lit match. I think that is where the confusion came into play.
I saw what you intended to say, but there are others on here that are a little bit slow.![]()

I haven't had a chance to look at it to be honest. I'll try an get out there at some point today. My brother just called and said he's not going to make it.I'm having my brother bring his truck over and try his alternator. His truck is a 01 Tahoe. If it won't bolt on I'll figure out how to get "hooked up". To see if i can replicate it.
Louis, stop and think for a minute.
You keep going back to the alternator as the problem, even after two different places tested it and said it's good. Why? Because there was a 6 amp draw on a wire going to it is what you said. But... that wire is to excite the field windings so the alternator can produce electricity, and should not have had power to it with the ignition off. You've also said you were having an issue with the gauges, and if you look at the schematics I gave you one thing that immediately should be jumping out at you is that the lead going to the alternator for the field windings, comes from the gauges, and that the gauges should only be energized when the ignition is in "start" and "run". Isn't common sense now telling you that the problem is in the wiring to the gauges, possibly in the ignition switch?
You're free to try swapping in another alternator if you want, but there's a quote floating around out there that says the definition of insanity is repeating the same thing, over and over, and expecting different results.