Matt's ongoing truck search...again (UPDATE POST 66)

[buRRp]

 

[drperry]

Looks good!

If you can, find a Hurst shifter for it...

If you want to stick with the stock radio....

Stock radio (once I find a CD player one) will be staying for a long time along with the shifter. The factory radio can put out more bass to the stock speakers than an aftermarket one could (I do have an extra Kenwood receiver sitting around though!). I'm not use to having the shifter so far back. In the 94-97, the shifter is much farther forward.

I have factory radio kicking around

Oh yes... BB tune!

Yep. That will be in the works soon enough! I'll most likely be going with a mail-order tune unless some guys on GMT got a Milwaukee, WI meet together (which I don't think they did).

Any tips for the tune Dennis? I'd like to have Justin set it so that as soon as I take my foot off the gas, the engine idles and will hold the truck back sooner.

If it's in gear, it should start slowing down instantly!

You can get Justin to make it so that when you take it out of gear without the clutch, the RPM's drop way faster.

That's about all you really need to customize when tuning this thing...

Good find. I am kind in a search for a S-10 myself. I am looking for a decent 2wd 4cylinder with low miles. I need a nice summer beater truck now I don't have the Sierra.

Good luck with your search!! My old '94 4cyl 5spd got 25-26 in the summer consistently. Its hard to find cheap with low miles. I saw one about an hour away that was $4k with under 90k and no rust.



So I discovered a few more things about the truck today.
1) The driver's door key lock doesn't work. It might be the wrong lock from the replacement door. At first, the passenger lock didn't work either, but I shot some lube in it and after sitting for 8hrs, it works now. I'm gonna order a new lock cylinder from RockAuto for the driver's side, have it set by a locksmith, and be done with it.
2) The lever for adjusting the seat backs for both seats is broken/missing.
3) The wipers are currently working, but I'm gonna order a new circuit board from RockAuto too.

This weekend, I hope to use 3M Foaming Carpet Cleaner on the interior and vacuum it all out, wash it up, and then it will be going in my grandma's garage until fall/winter.

I have to research how to disable DRL/AHL on this thing along with what headlights are best for HID's (that don't break the bank). There are very few things I want to add to the truck, but I won't sacrifice being able to see and I've already got bulbs and ballasts.

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

 

[nubuilder]

Looks good!

If you can, find a Hurst shifter for it...

If you want to stick with the stock radio....

Stock radio (once I find a CD player one) will be staying for a long time along with the shifter. The factory radio can put out more bass to the stock speakers than an aftermarket one could (I do have an extra Kenwood receiver sitting around though!). I'm not use to having the shifter so far back. In the 94-97, the shifter is much farther forward.

I have factory radio kicking around
Shoot me a price for the radio and shipping. US zip code 54603.

Oh yes... BB tune!

Yep. That will be in the works soon enough! I'll most likely be going with a mail-order tune unless some guys on GMT got a Milwaukee, WI meet together (which I don't think they did).

Any tips for the tune Dennis? I'd like to have Justin set it so that as soon as I take my foot off the gas, the engine idles and will hold the truck back sooner.

If it's in gear, it should start slowing down instantly!
It pretty much does, but I just want to see if he can do anything else.

You can get Justin to make it so that when you take it out of gear without the clutch, the RPM's drop way faster.
I'll definitely have him do that. I meant too. I guess I should have been more specific. When you push the clutch in, it hangs there for a second or two waiting for the shift, but I'd rather have it idle down right away.

That's about all you really need to customize when tuning this thing...
Yeah, there's no trans torque management to deal with and I don't know about engine TM though. I'll contact him in a month or so and see what's up.

Good find. I am kind in a search for a S-10 myself. I am looking for a decent 2wd 4cylinder with low miles. I need a nice summer beater truck now I don't have the Sierra.

Good luck with your search!! My old '94 4cyl 5spd got 25-26 in the summer consistently. Its hard to find cheap with low miles. I saw one about an hour away that was $4k with under 90k and no rust.



So I discovered a few more things about the truck today.
1) The driver's door key lock doesn't work. It might be the wrong lock from the replacement door. At first, the passenger lock didn't work either, but I shot some lube in it and after sitting for 8hrs, it works now. I'm gonna order a new lock cylinder from RockAuto for the driver's side, have it set by a locksmith, and be done with it.
2) The lever for adjusting the seat backs for both seats is broken/missing.
3) The wipers are currently working, but I'm gonna order a new circuit board from RockAuto too.

This weekend, I hope to use 3M Foaming Carpet Cleaner on the interior and vacuum it all out, wash it up, and then it will be going in my grandma's garage until fall/winter.

I have to research how to disable DRL/AHL on this thing along with what headlights are best for HID's (that don't break the bank). There are very few things I want to add to the truck, but I won't sacrifice being able to see and I've already got bulbs and ballasts.

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.
I saw that relay, but when I tried to pull it out, it seemed stuck. Are they that hard to get out?

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.
So all you have to do is add a resistor to either wire (or the power I'm guessing)? Seems easy enough. Can you access the wire by just removing the speaker grill?



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well
Figures you would have found that out already!

See blue stuff!

 

[nubuilder]

Nice looking truck.

Thanks guys! 4x4 5spd just sounds fun in snow! I can't wait to see how it does!!

Lee, I guess I'll find out the hard way how the tires do in the snow.



Oh, I forgot to mention that this has a factory G80 in it. I'm not sure if that was standard equipment with the ZR2 package or not.

 

[drperry]

Looks good!

If you can, find a Hurst shifter for it...

If you want to stick with the stock radio....

Stock radio (once I find a CD player one) will be staying for a long time along with the shifter. The factory radio can put out more bass to the stock speakers than an aftermarket one could (I do have an extra Kenwood receiver sitting around though!). I'm not use to having the shifter so far back. In the 94-97, the shifter is much farther forward.

I have factory radio kicking around
Shoot me a price for the radio and shipping. US zip code 54603.
I'll fire off your price when I'm on days off... Easier to hit the post office that way.

Oh yes... BB tune!

Yep. That will be in the works soon enough! I'll most likely be going with a mail-order tune unless some guys on GMT got a Milwaukee, WI meet together (which I don't think they did).

Any tips for the tune Dennis? I'd like to have Justin set it so that as soon as I take my foot off the gas, the engine idles and will hold the truck back sooner.

If it's in gear, it should start slowing down instantly!
It pretty much does, but I just want to see if he can do anything else.
Other than make the engine sing, not really

You can get Justin to make it so that when you take it out of gear without the clutch, the RPM's drop way faster.
I'll definitely have him do that. I meant too. I guess I should have been more specific. When you push the clutch in, it hangs there for a second or two waiting for the shift, but I'd rather have it idle down right away.
It should idle down instantly if you're pressing the clutch

That's about all you really need to customize when tuning this thing...
Yeah, there's no trans torque management to deal with and I don't know about engine TM though. I'll contact him in a month or so and see what's up.
There is no torque management on the engine.

Good find. I am kind in a search for a S-10 myself. I am looking for a decent 2wd 4cylinder with low miles. I need a nice summer beater truck now I don't have the Sierra.

Good luck with your search!! My old '94 4cyl 5spd got 25-26 in the summer consistently. Its hard to find cheap with low miles. I saw one about an hour away that was $4k with under 90k and no rust.



So I discovered a few more things about the truck today.
1) The driver's door key lock doesn't work. It might be the wrong lock from the replacement door. At first, the passenger lock didn't work either, but I shot some lube in it and after sitting for 8hrs, it works now. I'm gonna order a new lock cylinder from RockAuto for the driver's side, have it set by a locksmith, and be done with it.
2) The lever for adjusting the seat backs for both seats is broken/missing.
3) The wipers are currently working, but I'm gonna order a new circuit board from RockAuto too.

This weekend, I hope to use 3M Foaming Carpet Cleaner on the interior and vacuum it all out, wash it up, and then it will be going in my grandma's garage until fall/winter.

I have to research how to disable DRL/AHL on this thing along with what headlights are best for HID's (that don't break the bank). There are very few things I want to add to the truck, but I won't sacrifice being able to see and I've already got bulbs and ballasts.

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.
I saw that relay, but when I tried to pull it out, it seemed stuck. Are they that hard to get out?
They can be stubborn... Wiggle it back and forth gently and she'll work herself out.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.
So all you have to do is add a resistor to either wire (or the power I'm guessing)? Seems easy enough. Can you access the wire by just removing the speaker grill?
You unplug the connector from the sensor, insert the resistor into the plug, tape it all up so nothing can short out and done!
The sensor is attached to the speaker grille... You'll have to unplug the sensor to have enough room to change your speakers



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well
Figures you would have found that out already!

I'm so awesome at it, that it didn't even impact my climate control!

See blue stuff!

See the orange stuff

 

[nubuilder]

Looks good!

If you can, find a Hurst shifter for it...

If you want to stick with the stock radio....

Stock radio (once I find a CD player one) will be staying for a long time along with the shifter. The factory radio can put out more bass to the stock speakers than an aftermarket one could (I do have an extra Kenwood receiver sitting around though!). I'm not use to having the shifter so far back. In the 94-97, the shifter is much farther forward.

I have factory radio kicking around
Shoot me a price for the radio and shipping. US zip code 54603.
I'll fire off your price when I'm on days off... Easier to hit the post office that way.

Oh yes... BB tune!

Yep. That will be in the works soon enough! I'll most likely be going with a mail-order tune unless some guys on GMT got a Milwaukee, WI meet together (which I don't think they did).

Any tips for the tune Dennis? I'd like to have Justin set it so that as soon as I take my foot off the gas, the engine idles and will hold the truck back sooner.

If it's in gear, it should start slowing down instantly!
It pretty much does, but I just want to see if he can do anything else.
Other than make the engine sing, not really

You can get Justin to make it so that when you take it out of gear without the clutch, the RPM's drop way faster.
I'll definitely have him do that. I meant too. I guess I should have been more specific. When you push the clutch in, it hangs there for a second or two waiting for the shift, but I'd rather have it idle down right away.
It should idle down instantly if you're pressing the clutch
If you press the clutch while moving? It seems to stay at RPM for a second, but that could be due to the jerky tach needle. I need to clean the contacts or something.

That's about all you really need to customize when tuning this thing...
Yeah, there's no trans torque management to deal with and I don't know about engine TM though. I'll contact him in a month or so and see what's up.
There is no torque management on the engine.

Good find. I am kind in a search for a S-10 myself. I am looking for a decent 2wd 4cylinder with low miles. I need a nice summer beater truck now I don't have the Sierra.

Good luck with your search!! My old '94 4cyl 5spd got 25-26 in the summer consistently. Its hard to find cheap with low miles. I saw one about an hour away that was $4k with under 90k and no rust.



So I discovered a few more things about the truck today.
1) The driver's door key lock doesn't work. It might be the wrong lock from the replacement door. At first, the passenger lock didn't work either, but I shot some lube in it and after sitting for 8hrs, it works now. I'm gonna order a new lock cylinder from RockAuto for the driver's side, have it set by a locksmith, and be done with it.
2) The lever for adjusting the seat backs for both seats is broken/missing.
3) The wipers are currently working, but I'm gonna order a new circuit board from RockAuto too.

This weekend, I hope to use 3M Foaming Carpet Cleaner on the interior and vacuum it all out, wash it up, and then it will be going in my grandma's garage until fall/winter.

I have to research how to disable DRL/AHL on this thing along with what headlights are best for HID's (that don't break the bank). There are very few things I want to add to the truck, but I won't sacrifice being able to see and I've already got bulbs and ballasts.

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.
I saw that relay, but when I tried to pull it out, it seemed stuck. Are they that hard to get out?
They can be stubborn... Wiggle it back and forth gently and she'll work herself out.
I'll give it another shot and ye patient and careful.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.
So all you have to do is add a resistor to either wire (or the power I'm guessing)? Seems easy enough. Can you access the wire by just removing the speaker grill?
You unplug the connector from the sensor, insert the resistor into the plug, tape it all up so nothing can short out and done!
The sensor is attached to the speaker grille... You'll have to unplug the sensor to have enough room to change your speakers
Cool! Sounds easy enough to do. I'll check RadioShack for a resistor. Thanks!



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well
Figures you would have found that out already!

I'm so awesome at it, that it didn't even impact my climate control!

See blue stuff!

See the orange stuff

See green stuff.



I've found wiper pulse board, door pin and bushing kit, lock cylinder, and both seat reclining handles (bot for $5; why the hell not!).

 

[nubuilder]

Dennis, I got the DRL relay out (pulling the fuel pump relay made it a lot easier).

Would it hurt/disable anything else if I just leave the relay out?

 

[drperry]

Dennis, I got the DRL relay out (pulling the fuel pump relay made it a lot easier).

Would it hurt/disable anything else if I just leave the relay out?

No clue...

 

[nubuilder]

Dennis, I got the DRL relay out (pulling the fuel pump relay made it a lot easier).

Would it hurt/disable anything else if I just leave the relay out?

No clue...

Ok. All the lights worked fine when I was in the driveway testing so I'll see what happens! Hopefully tomorrow I'll pickup that resistor.

My parts to get so far:
-batter hold down rubber block and nut
-driver's door lock cylinder
-wiper pulse board
-screws for a lower kick panel (I think AutoZone has them)
-door pins and bushings (driver's door)
-reclining seat handles (both)
So about $82 in parts and shipping thus far....and I'll probably still find more.


I'm still researching headlights. I don't want to go with a crystal clear only because the parking/signal lights won't be since ones with fog lights are only available in the factory style.

 

[nubuilder]

Which headlights do you guys think would look the best?

1

2

3

4

Keep in mind that these lights will be below them.

This guy appears to have either #1 or #2 installed. His cut-off line is really nice! In the thread I found them in, he never mentions the brand, but that they are from eBay.

I'm leaning towards #1 or #2.