GMT 400 Level....

buckshot85

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But doesn't cranking the bars screw up your cv angle and increase wear?


x2 thats what i was always told. the keys didn't put as much stress on the cv joints. :dunno:

Can anyone chime in here?

If not i'll just turn them back up :lol:. i spent way to much money on new parts leaf springs, brake booster, headlights, etc...and my rancho 4" lift to buy one right now for this truck though. Their not to exspensive though. i found them for around 900
 

DV2000NJ

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But doesn't cranking the bars screw up your cv angle and increase wear?


x2 thats what i was always told. the keys didn't put as much stress on the cv joints. :dunno:

Can anyone chime in here?

If not i'll just turn them back up :lol:. i spent way to much money on new parts leaf springs, brake booster, headlights, etc...and my rancho 4" lift to buy one right now for this truck though. Their not to exspensive though. i found them for around 900

Think about what the keys are doing. All they are doing is twisting the torsion bars. They are changing no parts in the area of the CVs, ball joints, or tie rod ends, so how will it affect them differently than cranked stock keys?

As far as your suspension geometry is concerned, aftermarket keys are EXACTLY the same as cranking the stock keys, they are just indexed differently to allow you to crank further.

Especially on the GMT400s (which you can crank to the sky on the stock keys), aftermarket keys aren't necessary.
 

buckshot85

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i turned mine up 3 full turns but mark where you start and make sure each turn makes it back to the mark. that way both sides are lifted equally.
 

NMRam

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They are all somewhat different depending on how the suspension is setting now, but a rule of thumb is it takes about 4 full turns to equal 1" rise. Best bet is to park on a level, smooth surface, measure front and rear fenders (from the ground to the center of the fender lip above the tire), then crank a few turns, measure again, repeat as necessary. Once you get it pretty close to how you want it, drive it some to get everything settled in, then measure again and fine tune as necessary.
 

buckshot85

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They are all somewhat different depending on how the suspension is setting now, but a rule of thumb is it takes about 4 full turns to equal 1" rise. Best bet is to park on a level, smooth surface, measure front and rear fenders (from the ground to the center of the fender lip above the tire), then crank a few turns, measure again, repeat as necessary. Once you get it pretty close to how you want it, drive it some to get everything settled in, then measure again and fine tune as necessary.


agreed but i had to get mine aligned after i raised it the first time too.
 

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