Dual Batteries

BHB

I WILL say things that piss you off!!!
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Posts
914
Reaction score
0
Location
Noo Yawk
Forget the isolator. and go with a heavy duty solenoid to isolate the batteries when the key is off

6223079705p
 

bubbatrucklover

Heavy Metal Red Neck
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Posts
1,200
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville,Fl U.S. of A.
In series works well. Once they are charged, the alternator only maintains a charge. Unless you are going to be draining them without the engine running, I don't see any reason for the added expense or complexity... but it's YOUR truck!

EDIT: IN PARALLEL ONLY! Not series...

Yeah it's MY truck but, it's also MY wallet sponsoring the project.:( LOL so I'd be glad to save an extra expense. :thumbs:

Wiring two 12 volt batteries in series will result in 24 volts to your system. I'm not sure that's the direction you should go.


Posted from my iPad via Tapatalk HD.
HAHAHAHA! :lol:

UH. OOPS.

Obviously they need to be wired in parallel unless you want to start a new 24 volt module frying trend...
:lol::lol: No thanks.


Forget the isolator. and go with a heavy duty solenoid to isolate the batteries when the key is off

6223079705p

That's a thought thanks. :cheers:
 

bubbatrucklover

Heavy Metal Red Neck
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Posts
1,200
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville,Fl U.S. of A.
So I removed this tray:

100_1443_zpsb0bdc300.jpg


and installed the secondary battery tray. Not only would the fender support be in the way but so is the fWONking mounting tab. (so is the AC line) :frustration::

Captureb_zpsd5d4b5de.jpg


I'm going to take it to my friend's shop and see if he can loosen up the flare nuts and twist the line. That way if I loose any coolant he can recharge.

as for the other. I see in the other installs they kept their mounting tab but, no mention if they removed the overflow tank then put the battery in then re installed the tank.

I'll have to measure the space and the battery for clearance. I was in a rush to get shiz put away and eat. :lol::lol:
 

daddy

I'm too LAZY to Choose a Custom Title!!!
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
May 17, 2009
Posts
46,700
Reaction score
72
Location
Pawnee, IN
Are you using using an odd-sized battery or an aftermarket tray or something?

I find it hard to believe GM would design a system that requires the removal of a fender support. Not impossible, just hard. :D
 

M.Cueva

jrrod2004
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Posts
400
Reaction score
0
Location
Austin, Texas
So I removed this tray:

100_1443_zpsb0bdc300.jpg


and installed the secondary battery tray. Not only would the fender support be in the way but so is the fWONking mounting tab. (so is the AC line) :frustration::

Captureb_zpsd5d4b5de.jpg


I'm going to take it to my friend's shop and see if he can loosen up the flare nuts and twist the line. That way if I loose any coolant he can recharge.

as for the other. I see in the other installs they kept their mounting tab but, no mention if they removed the overflow tank then put the battery in then re installed the tank.

I'll have to measure the space and the battery for clearance. I was in a rush to get shiz put away and eat. :lol::lol:



Ok, having already done this, let me try to help you out.....


You need the factory battery tray (looks like the one you took out). You need to remove the factory airbox, move (not remove) the overflow tank (by taking the screws out) and reinstalling the factory battery tray. The upper brace (semi circle metal piece) will not be required since the battery tray is the lower mount support (OEM GM Design). The upper bracket was installed in all the trucks by default unless they were the HD series trucks WITH the second battery option intalled (usually Diesel). you can toss the fender support (upper) if you want.....

Second: stick with the same sized battery as the 1st one, dont try to go with a bigger (physical) sized one......

Third, the original mounting tab where the curved brace bolted to (on the firewall), bend that up approx 3 millimeters and you will have all the clearance to install and uninstall the second battery. the A/C line should not really get in the way unless it was moved from its OEM location. Hope this help....





(If you need pics of my setup, let me know)
 

daddy

I'm too LAZY to Choose a Custom Title!!!
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
May 17, 2009
Posts
46,700
Reaction score
72
Location
Pawnee, IN
The upper brace (semi circle metal piece) will not be required since the battery tray is the lower mount support (OEM GM Design). The upper bracket was installed in all the trucks by default unless they were the HD series trucks WITH the second battery option intalled (usually Diesel).

Ah! :thumbs:

Good info, as usual, Mike!
 

bubbatrucklover

Heavy Metal Red Neck
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Posts
1,200
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville,Fl U.S. of A.
Are you using using an odd-sized battery or an aftermarket tray or something?

I find it hard to believe GM would design a system that requires the removal of a fender support. Not impossible, just hard. :D

Nope. Went to the GM dealer (less then 2 minutes from my house. ALWAYS a nice convenience :thumbs:) and bought the secondary tray. The battery is a Car Quest the previous owner had as the factory replacement.
 

bubbatrucklover

Heavy Metal Red Neck
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Posts
1,200
Reaction score
0
Location
Jacksonville,Fl U.S. of A.
Ok, having already done this, let me try to help you out.....

You need the factory battery tray (looks like the one you took out). You need to remove the factory airbox, move (not remove) the overflow tank (by taking the screws out) and reinstalling the factory battery tray. The upper brace (semi circle metal piece) will not be required since the battery tray is the lower mount support (OEM GM Design). The upper bracket was installed in all the trucks by default unless they were the HD series trucks WITH the second battery option intalled (usually Diesel). you can toss the fender support (upper) if you want.....

Second: stick with the same sized battery as the 1st one, dont try to go with a bigger (physical) sized one......

Third, the original mounting tab where the curved brace bolted to (on the firewall), bend that up approx 3 millimeters and you will have all the clearance to install and uninstall the second battery. the A/C line should not really get in the way unless it was moved from its OEM location. Hope this help....

(If you need pics of my setup, let me know)

I always LOVE pics.:thumbs: Feel free to post if you want.:cheers:

Yeah I figured out how to install the factory tray ( that's it installed in the pic with the red circles). I have a K&N cold air intake so the box wasn't an issue and I figured out about moving the overflow tank out of the way slightly.

So the tab needs bent. Good to know.:D That's all I saw was going to prevent the battery from fitting. As for the AC line. When the new compressor was installed I think the line was re installed slightly angled. Not a problem at the time as there was no battery tray to see the valve as an issue with the installation of the battery hold down block.:frustration: :lol:

My battery choice by default was the po's factory sized replacement. I'll go with another Optima when funds permit.

I think this is a really cool factory option. :fingertime:
 

Staff online

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
28,813
Posts
1,105,386
Members
4,759
Latest member
horn
Back
Top