In series works well. Once they are charged, the alternator only maintains a charge. Unless you are going to be draining them without the engine running, I don't see any reason for the added expense or complexity... but it's YOUR truck!
EDIT: IN PARALLEL ONLY! Not series...
No thanks.HAHAHAHA!Wiring two 12 volt batteries in series will result in 24 volts to your system. I'm not sure that's the direction you should go.
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UH. OOPS.
Obviously they need to be wired in parallel unless you want to start a new 24 volt module frying trend...
Forget the isolator. and go with a heavy duty solenoid to isolate the batteries when the key is off
So I removed this tray:
and installed the secondary battery tray. Not only would the fender support be in the way but so is the fWONking mounting tab. (so is the AC line) :
I'm going to take it to my friend's shop and see if he can loosen up the flare nuts and twist the line. That way if I loose any coolant he can recharge.
as for the other. I see in the other installs they kept their mounting tab but, no mention if they removed the overflow tank then put the battery in then re installed the tank.
I'll have to measure the space and the battery for clearance. I was in a rush to get shiz put away and eat.
The upper brace (semi circle metal piece) will not be required since the battery tray is the lower mount support (OEM GM Design). The upper bracket was installed in all the trucks by default unless they were the HD series trucks WITH the second battery option intalled (usually Diesel).
That's a thought thanks.
Are you using using an odd-sized battery or an aftermarket tray or something?
I find it hard to believe GM would design a system that requires the removal of a fender support. Not impossible, just hard.
Ok, having already done this, let me try to help you out.....
You need the factory battery tray (looks like the one you took out). You need to remove the factory airbox, move (not remove) the overflow tank (by taking the screws out) and reinstalling the factory battery tray. The upper brace (semi circle metal piece) will not be required since the battery tray is the lower mount support (OEM GM Design). The upper bracket was installed in all the trucks by default unless they were the HD series trucks WITH the second battery option intalled (usually Diesel). you can toss the fender support (upper) if you want.....
Second: stick with the same sized battery as the 1st one, dont try to go with a bigger (physical) sized one......
Third, the original mounting tab where the curved brace bolted to (on the firewall), bend that up approx 3 millimeters and you will have all the clearance to install and uninstall the second battery. the A/C line should not really get in the way unless it was moved from its OEM location. Hope this help....
(If you need pics of my setup, let me know)
They work better than isolators.