CV Shafts SNAFU

[GatorFan]

UPDATE (and it's bad)

CarQuest called and said their truck was early so I could come by and check out their part against mine. Well, it "looked" the same as far as the flange was concerned but I noticed a little bit of difference in the part of the shaft that slides into the spindle but I was "assured" this wouldn't matter.

Anyway, I bought the part (you believe they charge $73 for a core charge). Out the door was $135 but I was going to use my Advance Auto part for the core. Advance price for the cv shaft was $53 and that was less than the core charge for CarQuest so I was going to use my Advance part for the core because I am gaining an extra $20 back.

On to the bad...

Raced up there and barely made it before they closed. Fought traffic to get back home anticpating a good end to my crappy day. WRONG. Got home, turned on my shop light, pulled it out of the box, put 2 bolts to the flange side and BANG, it bound up again. Plus it didn't seat all the way in the spindle. DAMN IT!!!!

The wife heard me and came outside and said, THAT'S IT, WE ARE BUYING THE PART FROM THE DEALER AND I DON'T CARE THAT IT'S $600. At least we know it will more than likely fit.

Well, there you go, now I get to drop $600 for this stupid part.

The sad thing is, I checked a couple of "name brand" auto part stores and they all use the same part # from 1999 - 2009 that I know of. I got disgusted and quit looking. This is a real crappy deal. How in the hell does this happen. Chevy and GMC use the same part number at ALL the autopart stores and I get the FLUKE truck that only likes a certain one.

I have a pounding headache now and my ass is going to hurt tomorrow when I bend over and take it from Uncle GMC parts guy.

NICE!!!!

 

[Texas Jim]

That sucks... sure hate to hear that...

 

[mfennema]

Not gonna try the amazon parts Jim posted??

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

 

[PenguinLTZ]

Sorry to hear man.

 

[txab]

We replaced shafts on a 2001 GMC about 9 months ago. Got Cardone from rockauto. No probs whatsoever.

Have you tried NAPA?

 

[Draenor]

Slow down.

How its the shaft binding? Is your rig lifted? Can you post a picture of the two axlse shafts side by side? How about one installed where its binding.

Some aftermarket parts do have slight deviations from OEM design. Most of these design differences do not affect function.

 

[Draenor]

Should look like this. Where is it binding?

Have you measured each new and existing compressed lengths.

 

[GatorFan]

Slow down.

How its the shaft binding? Is your rig lifted? Can you post a picture of the two axlse shafts side by side? How about one installed where its binding.

Some aftermarket parts do have slight deviations from OEM design. Most of these design differences do not affect function.

Basically here is the issue.

I install the new shaft and that goes in without an issue. The problem (binding) occurs when I try and bolt it to the trans-axle side (6 bolts). I will install 1 or 2 bolts then spin the cv shaft to allow me to install the other bolts and it binds or won't allow me to spin the shaft around. It feels like someone has placed a screwdriver into the vents of my rotor next to my caliper, keeping it from rotating. That has happened on two separate shafts I tried to install. I would assume it was because the suspension is sagging at its' lowest because of it being on a jack stand BUT when this occured before and I went back to the part's store before and picked up one that exactly matched my factory flange, I could install all 6 bolts and the shaft would spin freely while I installed the bolts.

That is the issue I am having now. It's a head scratcher because how can multiple part's stores sell these CV shafts and unless mine is "exactly" the same, it binds when trying to install it. Also odd is the fact that my first set of replacement shafts have the same part number as the "new" replacements I purchased from the same parts store, but it binds when I try installing it the exact same way (on jack stands). So far, the only differences I can see is in the design on the flange-side. The notches are not as deep as my previous flanges. In one instance, the flange for one cv shaft was completely round. In my opinion, it shouldn't matter if the flange-side was round, square, or any shape as long as the bolt pattern is the same and the spindle-side fits snugly into the hub bearing.

This is the main reason I am going to agree with my wife and head up to the GMC dealer and at least check their $600 cv chaft against the cv shaft I know fits and does not bind when I try to install it. If this $600 dollar cv shaft gives me no grief, that will make me scratch my head harder in confusion.

I am still trying to locate a driveshaft shop around this area that will just install a new boot on my current cv shaft. I don't even care if they charge me $100 because it would still be cheaper than paying $600 to the dealer, but I am running out of options at this point because all the shops I call, they no longer do that because aftermarket cv shafts are so cheap now.

 

[Black02Silverado]

Have you tried Majestic Car Car Center?

Looks like they repair CV boots.

Also you can try a salvage yard. They have them here in Goldsboro, $40 on Saturday all you can carry out of the yard. You just go pull what you want and walk out with it for $40. I know used might not be the way to go but you might find a good used one that would work.

 

[Texas Jim]

You can buy the boot for less than 20 bucks and replace it yourself in about 30 minutes or less...
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http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-0...r=2000|2000&carId=003&n=15684181&s=automotive