'69 Land Rover Brakes

vansdonk

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So, we have been trying to fix the brakes on the '69 Landie for a while now. I'll start from the beginning (keep in mind that other than normal shoe/drum replacement, nothing else has been touched on the brakes):

One of the rear brake cylinders sprung a leak on day so I ordered the rebuild kit. Rebuilt all 6 cylinders. In the process, we broke 2 of the 41 year old hard lines. Went to Napa, got the hard lines, brought them home, bent them and installed. Bled system and couldn't get pressure to build up.

Ordered the brake master cylinder rebuild kit thinking that maybe that needed to be rebuilt also. Fix that up nicely. Bled system again. Just enough pressure to start catching the brakes after about 90% push thru of brake pedal. We checked every where for leaks or bulging soft lines. Nothing.

So, we went and bought a dual flow bleeder kit. Hooked it up for vacuum, bled system. Still no pressure. So, we hooked it up to push fluid reverse thru the system at each wheel bleed screw. Still no pressure.

I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this out. It is the simplest system ever. Reservoir, line to master, line to 4-way, one line to each front top wheel cylinder, one line to each rear cylinder. There are 2 cylinders on the front connected by a line from top to bottom. There is no brake adjustment screws on it, so that is not an option. We have followed all lines, hoses, connections and cannot find any leaks.

Anyone know what else we can do???
 

Bigredmariner

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I know you have bled the system, a buddy had a similar issue with his wifes Jeep not long ago. He bled over 3 gallons of fluid through the thing, replaced every piece in the entire system. We batted ideas around for days about why the pedal was still soft, turned out there was still air in the calipers. The bleeder plugs weren't exactly on the highest point and even after bleeding/ flushing/ cussing it still had air in it. Go back to basics and LOOK at the system closely and think logically. May not be the case but it may be worth a look again.:dunno:

Sorry that's not what you wanted to hear, and I'm not trying to be a smart ass about it either. We are professional mechanics and it was the simplest thing that fixed it.
 

Draenor

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It has to be air in the system. You said you rebuilt the master. Did you bench bleed it first?
 

vansdonk

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That makes sense. So what was your fix? I'm guessing some sort of "prime" when rebuilding the cylinders? I looked at them and the inline and bleeder screw is about 1/4" from the top of cylinder. :frustration:
 

vansdonk

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It has to be air in the system. You said you rebuilt the master. Did you bench bleed it first?

Well, we don't exactly have any hydraulic testing equipment, but we did fill the master and hand actuate it to remove air before installing.

We did the reverse flow. And we had ALOT of air come up thru the reservoir while doing so.

We now own a share in DOT 4 fluids we have put so much thru.
 

Bigredmariner

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That makes sense. So what was your fix? I'm guessing some sort of "prime" when rebuilding the cylinders? I looked at them and the inline and bleeder screw is about 1/4" from the top of cylinder. :frustration:
He ended up removing them again and pouring fluid in and rolling them around to get the air out. It was a PITA but it worked for his situation, I am not sure that is specifically your case. Just sharing my experience with a soft peddle and how it was something so simple.
 

Draenor

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