'63 Chevy step side

[63chevystepside]

Not getting spark through plug on the 63 chevy stepside-tested the modular-3 times its good. Got a new coil and hooked it up and right ---cranks and gets fuel-any idea out there? Only thing havent messed with in the dist. is that resister and they never go bad.Getting volts to dist and that hot wire is on there and right. got volts from batt. to regulater and to its jump on the regulater---could it be the resister? Any input would be welcomed.

 

[63chevystepside]

Ok im rethinking my steps-when i tested the modular-3 times in a row-it tested good-BUT-it wasnt even warm-hmmm-they are suppose to get freaking hot-no heat no spark---sound right to ya'll out there?

 

[skeet]

correct no heat no spark


:cough: ls swap :cough:


thats a nice truck and platform, i used to own one wish i never got rid of it

 

[63chevystepside]

correct no heat no spark


:cough: ls swap :cough:


thats a nice truck and platform, i used to own one wish i never got rid of it

ok good thanks-im going to be putting a 454 built and a built 400th in it. Just for now trying to make sure everything works before the switch...

 

[63chevystepside]

The 63 had been in storage for almost 6 yrs-and it acts like its rusty-would it be ok to put a half quat of tranny fluid in the engine to eat up the rust while running it and changing it out after awhile-it wont hurt anything will it?

 

[63chevystepside]

I generaly use tranny fluid on engine stuff when in rebuild of the engine to eat rust off and to keep it off and it works great. Iv heard of those rare finds out in the farmers pasture that the farmer says it hasnt be started in 10 yrs an a old boy who wants to buy it takes all the spark plugs out and sprays some tranny fluid into each cyclinder then puts plugs back in then waits a day then goes back and turns it over by hand a few times to make sure its not locked up by rust once it turns by hand because of the tranny fluid had eaten up the rust that had locked it up starts it up and snap it starts and smokes like crazy till it burns off the tranny fluid then the smoke goes away and it purrs like its brand new again and the old boy drives off in it. Ok all that being said iv also have had a engine i found(455 rocket)that i personally found out in a o boys pasture that had been sitting outside in all the whether for years and it was locked up by the rust-i took it home and sprayed tranny fluid in each cyclinder and waited a day and snap it ate the rust and unlocked the engine and it turned by hand-then it was rebuilt and put in a 78 trans am and ran 13.7 in the quarter with stock rims and tires...ok now i have a engine in the 63 that had been sitting in storage for 6yrs and it cranks and im about to get it up and running but it seems real rusty on the inside-i was wondering would anyone recommend putting a half quart in the engine oil and let it eat the rust off...and drive it to the next oil change.Iv heard you can pour it in the carb and into the oil filler place and let it run at idle for 30min with no load then change the oil and change it again bout every 500 miles for a few times and it will clean and eat all the rust out and wont hurt anything.-any input out there?--sorry so long.

 

[Zembonez]

I would not dilute the engine oil with anything. People run seafoam through the intake and some burn trans fluid through the carb, but anything that dilutes the oil could possibly harm the bearings. Not a chance I would take.

Stored engines are a toss up. If the rust in the cylinder walls is bad, it can cause harm to the rings when you start the engine. If it's just surface rust, the rings may well polish it away. The rest of the engine doesn't need rust removal (internally). Anything that is going to come loose will come out in oil changes.

 

[63chevystepside]

I would not dilute the engine oil with anything. People run seafoam through the intake and some burn trans fluid through the carb, but anything that dilutes the oil could possibly harm the bearings. Not a chance I would take.

Stored engines are a toss up. If the rust in the cylinder walls is bad, it can cause harm to the rings when you start the engine. If it's just surface rust, the rings may well polish it away. The rest of the engine doesn't need rust removal (internally). Anything that is going to come loose will come out in oil changes.

So alittle in each cylinder isnt a good idea-just keep changing the oil-ok-oil wont take rust off will it?

 

[Zembonez]

Before initial startup, I like the idea of letting the trans fluid soften the surface rust in the cylinders. After a day or so of a good soaking, I'd spin it over and spray it again and let it soak. I'd also put fresh oil in it and change it after running it an hour or so to remove anything in the crankcase.

 

[63chevystepside]

This trk has been started by the guy i bought it from and ran. And i drove it home a 100 miles and he had put freash oil and tranny fluid in it-also noticed new battery and starter. He said he put alittle tranny fuid in each cyclinder before he cranked it over...but i dont believe he actually did because he also said he changed the plugs and i can tell he didnt-i.e. for one a new set of plugs for it are in the cab he left. im not really to concerned about it all because im going to put a different tranny and engine in it but for now just want to putt around town. it does have headers-eldrbrock performer intake 750 holly carb accel dist coil and 305 heads on its 350 blk.