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Ok, so we pulled everything out today, AGAIN. Put it all back together and bled system. THE SAME AS BEFORE. Then we had a friend come over just for a different set of ideas/eyes on the PITA. This is what we discovered: With the reservoir cap off, pump brakes with all bleed screws closed...

When we were there, the Auto Hobby shop on Kaneohe was the best. Turning rotors was only $5 each. Chad, John, Roy, and the others are great. Just don't mention Kris with the little yellow MG. THEY WILL KICK YOU OUT. They hated my car!!!!!:ohnoes:

Ok, another update. After thinking that our brake master rebuild kit was containing way too many pieces, we started REALLY digging into the IPB. There are two seals that used to be made as one piece. So first thing after bacon, egg, tomato sandwiches in the morning, we are going to tackle...

Find your local good ole boy mechanic and have it done without the headache of the stupid dealership. Everyone knows they are going to take a few arms and legs for what you can have done by someone honest.

Ok, small update. We removed the rear hubs and had the new oil seals and new races pressed in. During all this we have managed to spring an axle seal leak. Removed the cylinders and filled/rolled them around. So now all of that is cleaned up nice. And we had to install the new shoes on the...

Still waiting on the weather to cooperate. I'm supposed to be working on that today, but I have been busy with other things.

Me too. I thought it was going to look alot different. Just remember when using "motorized" vs. hand sanding to wear some type of respirator. Fiberglass is some nasty stuff. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Jake, That's looking really nice.

I'm running everything off of this: JL Audio HD600/4 Amplifier. 14 speakers total. 4 tweets, 4 8, mids, 2 10" subs, 4 6" speakers. I have enough power to rock out to the extreme. Don't know what you are after, but there are alot of good suggestions here.

Nice!!!!

I have the RF Punch P3SD410's.

$$$ is an issue. Mine were about $250 each plus fiberglassing the rear panel for a nice custom fit.

Well, even if you just need one, you do not need a box. You can make your rear panel/5th door panel work just fine. The only reason I have a tiny rattle is from the ladder and the tire rack on the 5th door.

Sooooo..... I just looked more closely at the front wheel cylinders. There are two on each front. One at the top and one at the bottom. The bleeder screw is on the bottom. So, I have some more parts coming in tomorrow evening. I'm going to disconnect the line between the top/bottom and...

I have 2 10" subs in the rear of my truck. The max deflection is 3". I love them.

Ok, I have some errands to run before I can dig into this some more. At least I'm not the only one confused now.

I am accepting any and all ideas, J-Rod. No idea is too silly at this point.

Well, we don't exactly have any hydraulic testing equipment, but we did fill the master and hand actuate it to remove air before installing. We did the reverse flow. And we had ALOT of air come up thru the reservoir while doing so. We now own a share in DOT 4 fluids we have put so much...

That makes sense. So what was your fix? I'm guessing some sort of "prime" when rebuilding the cylinders? I looked at them and the inline and bleeder screw is about 1/4" from the top of cylinder. :frustration:

Oh, we are trying to sell this thing, so it would be nice to get it off blocks soon.

So, we have been trying to fix the brakes on the '69 Landie for a while now. I'll start from the beginning (keep in mind that other than normal shoe/drum replacement, nothing else has been touched on the brakes): One of the rear brake cylinders sprung a leak on day so I ordered the rebuild...

I wish LR would do some recalls for the stupid shit that happens to them........IE: Airbags don't deploy at all, bushings suck, seals suck and it will always leave it's mark all over everything, etc.

In the wood chipper. I see that Jim!!!!

Just wait until they start changing your custom user title.:tmc: