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And no change? That shouldn't be possible.

Which fuse box?

Okay, that'll work. Now start pulling fuses

But where's the meter connected? Should be between the POS terminal and the POS cable. And make sure you're using the right scale. Start pulling fuses one at a time to see what drops the draw and by how much.

You're going to always have some draw, from the ECM, BCM, radio, etc. Hell, is the door open and the dome light on? This is just one step in a process. Now you get to isolate. Start pulling fuses now to find out what's drawing what. (or watt in this case...)

Where is the meter connected?

Louis, stop and think for a minute. You keep going back to the alternator as the problem, even after two different places tested it and said it's good. Why? Because there was a 6 amp draw on a wire going to it is what you said. But... that wire is to excite the field windings so the...

Riiiight... And if a light bulb that isn't supposed to have power going to it, draws power anyway, then it's a bad lightbulb. Uh-huh... :rolleyes:

Bingo! :thumbs:

Personally, I think you're all being a little slow if you're even bothering with a match. He put a new battery in, so now it's got electric self-ignition.

Might need to update the links... And sure enough, it lists a 24805 for my truck (found through your sig link Nick), and shows how to change it... 'cept that's not what it looks like on my truck, and there is no filter either. (Took it apart to change a blown evaporator)

Okay, so what is the actual problem now? :dunno: I thought it was a draw killing the battery.

I would not discount the ignition switched circuits, for the simple reason that he was getting B+ at the field connection with the ignition off.

If you need any of the others, let me know.

These will help too... Gauges and ignition switch connections.

Capacitor big enough to draw 6 amps and hold that draw while you tested? Nah, not in that alternator. No way.

Shoot... It's 30 PDF files for the complete wiring, so I tried zipping them and it's 1.52 megs. Max size for zip attachment is 200k. I don't think the system will allow me to attach 30 files either. Here's the ones for the charging circuit and both fuse blocks though.

See my reply to Zembonez. Your gauge problem is the cause of the draw, not vice-versa, and your alternator is fine. Let me know if you need schematics for it, as I'm pretty sure the set I have covers 96

Not necessarily... That's like saying that if a light keeps coming on the problem is with the bulb. The black wire he's talking about is the B+ field wire, and it provides a little current to sort of "jump start" the alternator by magnetizing the field windings until the alternator is...

Think it'll awe the judge though?

In some places greater than 20 over is automatic suspension time. :ohnoes:

I have a full set on my GMC C3500 dually. Put 'em on in 2011 and they're working perfectly.

Very common on GMs of that era. I swear there were GMs I worked on back then which needed an SAE wrench on the bolt and a metric wrench on the nut. There's a chart on here that some nice person devised, showing the relationship between SAE and metric sizes, and where wrench and socket sizes...

So, very subject to the main bearing web cracking that plagued the early ones, and also the crank failures. Can't do anything about the cracks, it'll either happen or it won't, but the crank issue can be mitigated with a new harmonic balancer. And I do mean new, not salvage, not new old stock...

Do you at least know what year the 6.2 is?