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Thanks ZBones !!! I skipped alot of steps here, but I am sure if anyone was to attempt to build theirs I could give them enough info to get it done.

Last ones !!! Trans has been installed. Flushed out the cooling lines and radaitor trans cooler tank to get all the nastiness I could out of it. Spent $30 on trans fluid and trans is working great. Probably just over 5000 miles on it now and its had 2 real good work outs towing heavy loads with...

Pan Installed and ready for install. Because that donor trans looked so good inside, I also used the torque converter that came with the transmission. So here is the scoop on this trans rebuild. As bad of shape as it was in, I got off with a cheap rebuild. Spent $50 for the donor used trans with...

So now the pump it torqued to spec, time to roll it over and install check balls, servo's for the bands, and any line filter baskets that may be available. Then then a paper gasket, the valve body plate, another paper gasket then the valve body. Sorry, here is where I got short on pics, so I did...

It doesn't hurt to poor a quart of fluid in the converter before install, and I just use trans gel or vasaline on the front and rear seals too. Did you want me to go ahead and put the valvebody, filter, pan, governor, and vacuum modulator on this one SHD??? :crackup: So it'll work. :fingersx:

The bolt on wire should be the hot power. Then you should have 2 other wires in a plug for the back of the alernator. I am thinking 3 wires total, and ground which is done by bolting the alternator to the block via brackets.

I agree, but I don't think Pops has one to build for quite some time. I wouldn't be afraid to tackle an E model at all, just haven't have the need. My next one to do is going to be a 700r4 for the K10 if I ever find a 4x4 core or a 4x4 output shaft to build one of the 2x4 units I currently have...

Alright SHD, here you go, moving on to another part. This is the forward clutch drum and the input shaft. Pretty much the same procedure as the direct clutch drum with exception, I don't have to remove the input shaft with my clutch spring comprssor tool since there is a hole in the base of the...

Yeah, I guess I oughta finish this damn thing. I didn't think it was getting much attention, and its time consuming, digging for the pics, resizing etc. Maybe I'll have it finished by tonight. Don't threaten me to come to OK, or I won't finish it. I could use some help around here.:lol:

Anyone have Olds 350 Diesel Motor Perches that they removed from a 73-87 truck to convert to gas like so many have done? I acutally have a set, but they are being used in a 80 GMC that was the junker Olds 350 Diesel and converted to gas before I bought it. But I could use another set so I don't...

Anyone happen to have a an output shaft for a 700r4 transmission that was married to a NP208. I have plenty of 700r4 Transmissions, just none are 4x4. If its in your way, and price and shipping are feasible I could sure use one. I could also use the whole trans too if you are close enough for...

I'll agree the 4.3 V6 isn't the most fuel efficent engine, but it would sure take an ass load of discipline for the 350 to get better mpg. I know myself, I couldn't do it. The power is addictive, and if I got it, I am gonna use it.

Great info and pics there 64. Yes, so I haven't lost my mind. There is a pic of the EXTERNAL Voltage regulator model that shows the 2 wire plug at 12 O clock that I am reffering to. I am sure 66 will see it in the morning. Thanks for the help 64. I thought I was losing my mind.

Cool, but maybe you can shed more light on this for 66, cuz it just seems to me he is missing some wires. Even if its Internal regulation, there it still a 2 wire plug on the side of the alternator along with the big 10 guage red wire.

Sure glad to see someone else post in this thread besides me. And 64SB is a good one to be doing so. Thanks 64SB. Maybe you can be of some help to 66css on this alternator wiring issue. Is your truck converted to interanl voltage regulator or you still running the external 64? Either I am...

Alright Bernie. You fuggin poopie head deluxe !!! I have damn snow all over the place here. Granted its only a few inches, but still. Its fuggin cold out, roads are horrible, and we are to get more Sunday. Mind you, I was working up a sweat yesterday in 72 degree weather moving my trucks around...

yes, the ground can be the bracket that its bolted to. The 10gu wire is your hot coming out of the alternator to supply power and to charge the battery, but you still see need some kind of regulation or 1 of 2 things is going to happen. Either its not going to charge at all and not supply power...

Thats not making sense to me. You need something to be plugged into the back of alternator to complete the circuilt or its not going to work. The Voltage Regulator is what tell the alternator when to charge and when not to charge. Unless there is another way to wire it that I am not aware of...

Not knocking base model at all. I tend to like base models for roughing up or not have to worry about getting the carpet dirty etc, just saying, the bang for the buck. Keep his Base truck for work and decent fuel economy, and when funds are better, get him a nicer Cooter getting rig with a V8...

I'd check into this Ninja. Also see if you can get him down on the price. If I remember, your truck is pretty much a base model isn't? Just go with the 4.3 for the cheap patch, and 33K, is just a broke in motor. Even if they didn't ever change the oil in that 33,000 you still have a like new...

10-4, yep meant the VI. Isn't that what you said it calls for in your manual?

Yeah, pretty much my norm. PM is always full.

What year is your truck? If I recall you older BS, you'd be looking at 5.7 350, Not 4.8 or 5.3 for an easier swap.

My tires say Max Pressure 65, I am running 45-50psi.

Next to assemble is the direct drum that has the upgraded sprag that I will be using. Using a clutch spring compressor or home made tool of some sort, you must compress the springs and retainer to be able to pull the apply piston out of the drum to replace the lip seals. Without a good seal, the...