Brake Problem

[That Crazy Squirrel]

Others disagree, but I believe in replacing brake parts in sets or pairs on the same axle. I would replace both calipers, and possibly both hoses (depending on how old they are).

I have to agree with Bernie on this one. I made that mistake before. Remember I mention replacing a brake hose? Well I only replaced one and the other side busted too a few months later. I should have replaced both hoses at the same time, especially since they were both old and had many cracks in the outer layer.
Its not much more work if you are replacing the caliper anyway.

My experience has been that replacing brake parts in pairs makes for a more reliable and longer lasting repair, and helps maintain equal braking.

 

[Kennyray]

Others disagree, but I believe in replacing brake parts in sets or pairs on the same axle. I would replace both calipers, and possibly both hoses (depending on how old they are).

I have to agree with Bernie on this one. I made that mistake before. Remember I mention replacing a brake hose? Well I only replaced one and the other side busted too a few months later. I should have replaced both hoses at the same time, especially since they were both old and had many cracks in the outer layer.
Its not much more work if you are replacing the caliper anyway.

I have done the same, had a wheel cylinder start leaking, just replaced it and 2 weeks later the other side was leaking.

 

[nubuilder]

For right now, I just need to keep the truck on the road long enough to get the other one out. Then I might look into replacing the other side.

 

[That Crazy Squirrel]

Others disagree, but I believe in replacing brake parts in sets or pairs on the same axle. I would replace both calipers, and possibly both hoses (depending on how old they are).

I have to agree with Bernie on this one. I made that mistake before. Remember I mention replacing a brake hose? Well I only replaced one and the other side busted too a few months later. I should have replaced both hoses at the same time, especially since they were both old and had many cracks in the outer layer.
Its not much more work if you are replacing the caliper anyway.

I have done the same, had a wheel cylinder start leaking, just replaced it and 2 weeks later the other side was leaking.

Ya know... That's probably where I got my preference for doing brake components in pairs... high school auto shop class, rebuilding wheel cylinders. My auto shop teacher always harped that what you do to one side you do to the other side too.

 

[Kennyray]

Others disagree, but I believe in replacing brake parts in sets or pairs on the same axle. I would replace both calipers, and possibly both hoses (depending on how old they are).

I have to agree with Bernie on this one. I made that mistake before. Remember I mention replacing a brake hose? Well I only replaced one and the other side busted too a few months later. I should have replaced both hoses at the same time, especially since they were both old and had many cracks in the outer layer.
Its not much more work if you are replacing the caliper anyway.

I have done the same, had a wheel cylinder start leaking, just replaced it and 2 weeks later the other side was leaking.

Ya know... That's probably where I got my preference for doing brake components in pairs... high school auto shop class, rebuilding wheel cylinders. My auto shop teacher always harped that what you do to one side you do to the other side too.

Auto shop and my first job out of high school was in a garage. The owner felt the same way everything in pairs, brakes, ball joints, bearings. If it it's on the same axle do both sides.

 

[nubuilder]

All fixed!!!

Parts (driver's side rear)
Duralast Reman Brake Caliper - C628 - $40 (after $30 core)
Brakeware Brake Hose - 70757 - $16

Tools
3/8 ratchet
12mm (caliper bolts; at least my new ones were)
13mm (banjo bolt; holds flex line to caliper)
15mm (caliper bracket bolts)
9/16 wrench (hard brake line fitting going to the flex line)
10mm wrench (bleed screw)
17mm wrench (caliper slider bolts; you'll see what I mean)
small flat screwdriver
medium flat screwdriver
(I think that's it)

The caliper came with new slider bolts (no grease included), rubber boots for the slider bolts, caliper bolts, along with 3 aluminum shields (so they seemed; you'll see them when you take it all apart).

The flex line came with new copper washers, but did not come with the banjo bolt (so you'll need to re-use your old one, or buy a new one). It also did not come with a new clip to hold the flex line in place where the hard line screws into it. I re-used the old one as it didn't break upon removal.


The removal of everything went pretty good. I soaked everything with PB Blaster before starting. I also heated the hard line bolt/fitting/nut. Instead of applying a large, constant force on it, I tried just putting the wrench on it and hitting it with my palm. Seemed to work good for me anyways.

The caliper was obviously bad. The cup was covered in fluid and you wouldn't believe how much sand/dirt/small pebbles were stuck to it. I replaced the flex line just because it was easy to replace while I was at it.

Didn't really have all that much fluid to bleed as new fluid had already filled the line. Only had to cycle the pedal 6 or 7 times until no air came out.

Now I have a solid brake pedal again!! I'd still like to bleed the other calipers though.

Anyways, hope this helps someone else somehow!

 

[OldCracker29]

Good to hear you got it fixed up.

 

[drperry]

All fixed!!!

Parts (driver's side rear)
Duralast Reman Brake Caliper - C628 - $40 (after $30 core)
Brakeware Brake Hose - 70757 - $16

Tools
3/8 ratchet
12mm (caliper bolts; at least my new ones were)
13mm (banjo bolt; holds flex line to caliper)
15mm (caliper bracket bolts)
9/16 wrench (hard brake line fitting going to the flex line)
10mm wrench (bleed screw)
17mm wrench (caliper slider bolts; you'll see what I mean)
small flat screwdriver
medium flat screwdriver
(I think that's it)

The caliper came with new slider bolts (no grease included), rubber boots for the slider bolts, caliper bolts, along with 3 aluminum shields (so they seemed; you'll see them when you take it all apart).

The flex line came with new copper washers, but did not come with the banjo bolt (so you'll need to re-use your old one, or buy a new one). It also did not come with a new clip to hold the flex line in place where the hard line screws into it. I re-used the old one as it didn't break upon removal.


The removal of everything went pretty good. I soaked everything with PB Blaster before starting. I also heated the hard line bolt/fitting/nut. Instead of applying a large, constant force on it, I tried just putting the wrench on it and hitting it with my palm. Seemed to work good for me anyways.

The caliper was obviously bad. The cup was covered in fluid and you wouldn't believe how much sand/dirt/small pebbles were stuck to it. I replaced the flex line just because it was easy to replace while I was at it.

Didn't really have all that much fluid to bleed as new fluid had already filled the line. Only had to cycle the pedal 6 or 7 times until no air came out.

Now I have a solid brake pedal again!! I'd still like to bleed the other calipers though.

Anyways, hope this helps someone else somehow!

Well, as solid as those mushy brakes can get

Glad you got it fixed up

 

[nubuilder]

Well, as solid as those mushy brakes can get

Glad you got it fixed up

Well.....it's better than the pedal going to the floor.


So far, so good. The wheel is still dry on the backside so I'm thinking it's gonna be good!

 

[drperry]