Overhead Console - S-series

[drperry]

Tried the other console I have, did the same thing.

Then I decided I'd start plugging stuff back into the truck. I plugged in the headlight control knob and the driver's door plunger. I WORKED FINE!!!!! So then I unplugged the door plunger and it still worked. I looked at the headlight control knob plug and there are 2 orange and 1 white wire going to it. I unplugged the headlight control knob and it didn't work right.

So right now, when the key is in the ACC or ON/RUN, the OHC displays just fine and shuts off when the key is OFF. One other thing though. As long as the door plunger was held in (door closed), the OHC stayed on. I know the radio has an off-delay timer, but I don't know how long it is. I held in the plunger for at least 30sec and the OHC never turned off. As soon as I let go of the plunger, the OHC turned off. So basically if the door is open when or opened after turning the key OFF, the OHC turns off. (seems alright to me)

Would it be OK to wire the auto-dimming mirror the same way? Using the radio RAP wire and the ground.


This is why I hate doing more than 1 thing at a time!

RAP lasts for 10 minutes.

Damn! I thought it was like 1 or 2 minutes.

I'll just run the auto-mirror to it too. That way I know everything will shut off when the door is opened....that and I don't know of another good/easy ignition power source.

EDIT: Wait, couldn't I get an ignition power source at the instrument cluster?

10 minutes is about the standard

I guess I didn't think the radio stayed on for 10min after turning the key off and not opening the door. Still a cool feature IMO.

Any idea where I could get a wiring diagram/pin-out for the instrument cluster connector?

Which wires are you going to tap from there?

I tapped into the headlight switch for everything but the VSS and data wire...

I would like to find an easy SWITCHED (ignition on) 12v+ source. The cluster only comes on when the key is in the RUN position so I was thinking that would be the easiest, but I've never seen a wiring diagram for the plug.

My RAP stays on for 20 mins if I do not open a door.

Well, it's confirmed then by 2 people. Still seems really long to let the radio keep playing to me, but I guess that's what GM thought was best.

Do you own a volt meter or a test light?

 

[nubuilder]

Do you own a volt meter or a test light?

I own a volt meter. That doesn't mean I know how to use it. Seriously, which setting do I use?

 

[drperry]

Do you own a volt meter or a test light?

I own a volt meter. That doesn't mean I know how to use it. Seriously, which setting do I use?

12 V

 

[nubuilder]

Do you own a volt meter or a test light?

I own a volt meter. That doesn't mean I know how to use it. Seriously, which setting do I use?

12 V

Thanks.

I'm hoping to work on this again Monday....

 

[drperry]

Do you own a volt meter or a test light?

I own a volt meter. That doesn't mean I know how to use it. Seriously, which setting do I use?

12 V

Thanks.

I'm hoping to work on this again Monday....

What else was I supposed to say? I don't know what you've got for a volt meter

But they're fairly standard... There should be a 12V setting, that's good for up to 20 volts, give or take...

 

[nubuilder]

After working on the wiring and mounting of the overhead console (OHC) for a very long time (didn't keep track of how long; probably 20-30hrs; lots of detail work), the interior is finally back together.

To mount the OHC, I used a 7"x14.25" plate riveted to the two brace bars in the roof. This kept the plate off the roof so that when the roof warms/cools, it can move freely. In the plate, two "riv-nuts" (or so my dad called them) were used in place of welding a couple nuts to the back of the plate.

After the mounting plate was done, I turned my attention to the headliner. In the junkyard, I cut a section from a Blazer that had the long OHC and used it as a template. I used a utility knife to cut it. Take your time. It cuts pretty easy.

So once the headliner was cut and done, the headliner was put back in. After the headliner, the OHC was put in followed by the sun visors, passenger grab handle, the garment hooks in the ext cab above the windows, and the original back dome light.

Wiring Info

What the wires to the DIC connector do

7 = dark green - RAP Fused Supply
8 = black/white - Ground
9 = drk grn/wht - VSS
10= lt grn/blk - Outside air temp (this should be the only wire out of the cab to the sensor)
11= gray - Instrument panel lamp fuse supply
12= ppl/white - LED dimming signal
13 = NOT USED
14= Orange - constant 12v
15 = Yellow - Class 2 serial data

The connector for the DIC to the large A-pillar connector

7 (DK GRN) = P (DK GRN)
8 (BLK/WHT) = F (BLK/WHT)
9 (DK GRN/WHT) = N (DK GRN/WHT)
10 (LT GRN/BLK) = G (LT GRN/BLK)
11 (GRY) = E (GRY)
12 (PPL/WHT) = M (PPL/WHT)
13 = not used in the DIC connector
14 (ORN) = R (ORN)
15 (YEL) = C (YEL)

The large A-pillar connector to the Radio connector

P (DK GRN) = Radio PIN 9
F (BLK/WHT) = Radio PIN 5
N (DK GRN/WHT) = Radio PIN 16
G (LT GRN/BLK) = outside air temp sensor
E (GRY) = Radio PIN 7
M (PPL/WHT) = Radio PIN 6
13 = not used in the DIC connector
R (ORN) = Radio PIN 10
C (YEL) = to purple ALDL wire (OBD II port)

 

[buRRp]

Nice job Matt.

 

[nubuilder]

Thanks Lee! I'm really happy with how it turned out.

 

[drperry]

Nice work!

 

[nubuilder]

Nice work!

I was wondering when you'd see this.

Thanks for all the help and advice on this one Dennis.