Matt's ongoing truck search...again (UPDATE POST 66)

[nubuilder]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

 

[drperry]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

Is it all your lights or just your DRL's coming back on?

Now that I think about it, the ZR2's were different... Your low beams are your DRL's, correct?

 

[nubuilder]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

Is it all your lights or just your DRL's coming back on?

Now that I think about it, the ZR2's were different... Your low beams are your DRL's, correct?

I've seen all S10's/Blazer's both ways (with lows and highs as DRL's; highs are REALLY annoying since they are usually aimed slightly higher).

Mine are/were the lows. All the lights are coming on (tails, parking lights, license plate, etc) including the lows.

 

[drperry]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

Is it all your lights or just your DRL's coming back on?

Now that I think about it, the ZR2's were different... Your low beams are your DRL's, correct?

I've seen all S10's/Blazer's both ways (with lows and highs as DRL's; highs are REALLY annoying since they are usually aimed slightly higher).

Mine are/were the lows. All the lights are coming on (tails, parking lights, license plate, etc) including the lows.

Put your DRL relay back in
That should at least get rid of your AHL...

There's a yellow wire you need to cut under the steering column for your DRL's.

 

[nubuilder]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

Is it all your lights or just your DRL's coming back on?

Now that I think about it, the ZR2's were different... Your low beams are your DRL's, correct?

I've seen all S10's/Blazer's both ways (with lows and highs as DRL's; highs are REALLY annoying since they are usually aimed slightly higher).

Mine are/were the lows. All the lights are coming on (tails, parking lights, license plate, etc) including the lows.

Put your DRL relay back in
That should at least get rid of your AHL...

There's a yellow wire you need to cut under the steering column for your DRL's.

I'll try that tomorrow (putting the DRL relay back in with the resistor).

And the "cut the yellow wire" really narrows it down!


Why are mine so different from any other S10?

 

[drperry]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

Is it all your lights or just your DRL's coming back on?

Now that I think about it, the ZR2's were different... Your low beams are your DRL's, correct?

I've seen all S10's/Blazer's both ways (with lows and highs as DRL's; highs are REALLY annoying since they are usually aimed slightly higher).

Mine are/were the lows. All the lights are coming on (tails, parking lights, license plate, etc) including the lows.

Put your DRL relay back in
That should at least get rid of your AHL...

There's a yellow wire you need to cut under the steering column for your DRL's.

I'll try that tomorrow (putting the DRL relay back in with the resistor).

And the "cut the yellow wire" really narrows it down!


Why are mine so different from any other S10?

I don't know why they're different...

Sorry I don't have all the info for you off the top of my head...

I'll have some more stuff tonight or tomorrow.

 

[Kennyray]

Be carefull cutting the yellow wire, yellow usually signifies the air bag circuit.

 

[drperry]

Be carefull cutting the yellow wire, yellow usually signifies the air bag circuit.

It's not the thin flat wire, don't worry.

 

[Kennyray]

Be carefull cutting the yellow wire, yellow usually signifies the air bag circuit.

It's not the thin flat wire, don't worry.

Just don't want anybody to get hurt or have an expensive repair.

 

[nubuilder]

Open up the underhood fuse box, pull the DRL relay, and bend pin 86 out of the way.

For the AHL's, IIRC, it's a 1.5k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the plug for the AHL sensor in the passenger side dash speaker grille.



FYI, the resistor mod works in NNBS trucks as well

OK Dennis, I've removed the DRL relay completely and all seemed well. Then I finally bought a 5pk of 1.5k ohm 1/2watt resistors ($1) and inserted it into the AHL sensor. I tried it in both directions and both times it failed to keep the lights off. Actually, as soon as I unplugged the sensor, the lights turned on. I tried pushing it further into the socket, to make sure it was making contact, and it still didn't work.

Any thoughts?



In related news, I took the truck to my grandma's and put it in the garage for the summer. Hopefully soon, I'll get the 5th wheel bars out of the bed. Then, I'll remove the fender flares, work on the dent (my first time with a hammer and body work), and then maybe get the bed removed. I'd like to repaint the entire thing and then undercoat and put in a roll-on bed liner.

Is it all your lights or just your DRL's coming back on?

Now that I think about it, the ZR2's were different... Your low beams are your DRL's, correct?

I've seen all S10's/Blazer's both ways (with lows and highs as DRL's; highs are REALLY annoying since they are usually aimed slightly higher).

Mine are/were the lows. All the lights are coming on (tails, parking lights, license plate, etc) including the lows.

Put your DRL relay back in
That should at least get rid of your AHL...

There's a yellow wire you need to cut under the steering column for your DRL's.

I'll try that tomorrow (putting the DRL relay back in with the resistor).

And the "cut the yellow wire" really narrows it down!


Why are mine so different from any other S10?

I don't know why they're different...

Sorry I don't have all the info for you off the top of my head...

I'll have some more stuff tonight or tomorrow.

Don't worry so dang much! Its not getting driven so I've got time to tinker on it.

I'm just weary of cutting wires that's all.