This thing is rigged.
This thing is rigged.
nubuilder
Why buy new when you can restore?
I'd go 2 for DD purposes.
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batman
Guest
bump
I'm thinking we'll need a recount now.
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Bernie
Guest
Uh-huh... And you ain't getting all 300 to the wheels if you snap the driveshaft and they get headed off in some other direction.
For that matter, even #2 above might be a bit much for a jerry-rigged driveline. If I were in your place I think I'd make getting the driveshaft replaced with something able to do the job the top priority, then think about what clutch to drop in it.
I've seen a lot of guys do "improvements" to their trucks and cars that were ass-backwards. They'll start at the engine and not worry about the tranny until it breaks from the new power the worked on engine is putting out. Then they'll start breaking driveshafts, then differentials, then half shafts, etc. All because they didn't follow the "weakest link" principle. Instead, work backwards towards the motor, making sure everything that's going to be subjected to the power you plan to put out (including your brakes) can actually handle that kind of power. It's cheaper (and safer) in the long run.
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batman
Guest
DOUBLE BOMBED!!!! FOWNK!!!!
Uh-huh... And you ain't getting all 300 to the wheels if you snap the driveshaft and they get headed off in some other direction.
For that matter, even #2 above might be a bit much for a jerry-rigged driveline. If I were in your place I think I'd make getting the driveshaft replaced with something able to do the job the top priority, then think about what clutch to drop in it.
I've seen a lot of guys do "improvements" to their trucks and cars that were ass-backwards. They'll start at the engine and not worry about the tranny until it breaks from the new power the worked on engine is putting out. Then they'll start breaking driveshafts, then differentials, then half shafts, etc. All because they didn't follow the "weakest link" principle. Instead, work backwards towards the motor, making sure everything that's going to be subjected to the power you plan to put out (including your brakes) can actually handle that kind of power. It's cheaper (and safer) in the long run.
she said i should probably try to find another driveshaft first..or have one made the right way without the bastard joints, so if it cost a few $$ for a shaft to handle that, then so be it! did i mention i love her!! so she said to put the money into a shaft first and then do the clutch, cuase she seen me trying to put that s.o.b. in after the SNAP!
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batman
Guest
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Bernie
Guest
It's a tradition now, since your wife gave you the shaft.
NWSCREW
Chrome won't get you home!
I had the same issue with picking the clutch for my Mustang GT, ended up getting the Ford Racing stage 1 clutch, was cheaper than center force, with the same spec's...might want to look at them...my 2 cents
true...but...i still like the idea of all 300 horses getting to the wheels!
Go for whatever makes you happy then.
In my humble opinion, if this is going into your daily driver, you'll do better with #2. 90% torque to the wheels sounds good, especially in a drag race situation, but in a daily driver you'll likely find you're getting too much power to the wheels too early, and you'll either spin 'em or stall it. This is especially true with a pickup, since there's not much weight in the back to start with. Throw in some rain or snow and it just gets worse.
The new clutch isn't going to magically give you more power at the wheels... It will be able to hold 90% more than what the stock clutch is capable of before it slips... If you clutch wasn't slipping before it was worn out, then you were getting all your horses to the ground.
