"Magical" U-Joints ?

[bubbatrucklover]

So while rounding up parts and fluids to do my t-case/trans swap I thought maybe I should swap out the u-joints even though they are "new" (replaced less then a year ago) and I came across a few things. ONE did Moog merge with or buy out a company call Precision? At the parts store that USED to carry Moog (which the current personal swear never happened ) offer Precision. Rock Auto has parts listed as Moog/Precision.

and TWO: some U-joints are as much as forty FWONKIN' dollars at the parts store because they are specially coated for aluminum drive shafts. When the fwonk did that become an issue.

I've had the same aluminum driveshaft in the same '02 Silvy (which is from the factory) and NEVER had that question asked nor presented as an option/problem fixer. So is this "legit" or did they rub snake oil on it to jack up the price?

I also have a "hi-bred" u-joint in that the yoke on the rear end and drive shaft are different (3/4 ton rear end) so I bought the 2 (at the time 2 options) and swapped 2 of the caps. I HOPE I can find the boxes and part #s to order from Rock Auto. MUCH cheaper. Of course they weren't specially coated for aluminum drive shafts.

Thanks for any insight on these.

 

[OldCracker29]

So while rounding up parts and fluids to do my t-case/trans swap I thought maybe I should swap out the u-joints even though they are "new" (replaced less then a year ago) and I came across a few things. ONE did Moog merge with or buy out a company call Precision? At the parts store that USED to carry Moog (which the current personal swear never happened ) offer Precision. Rock Auto has parts listed as Moog/Precision.

and TWO: some U-joints are as much as forty FWONKIN' dollars at the parts store because they are specially coated for aluminum drive shafts. When the fwonk did that become an issue.

I've had the same aluminum driveshaft in the same '02 Silvy (which is from the factory) and NEVER had that question asked nor presented as an option/problem fixer. So is this "legit" or did they rub snake oil on it to jack up the price?

I also have a "hi-bred" u-joint in that the yoke on the rear end and drive shaft are different (3/4 ton rear end) so I bought the 2 (at the time 2 options) and swapped 2 of the caps. I HOPE I can find the boxes and part #s to order from Rock Auto. MUCH cheaper. Of course they weren't specially coated for aluminum drive shafts.

Thanks for any insight on these.

Must be some sort of galvanic corrosion reaction or something. Like using aluminum and copper together, that's a big

 

[bubbatrucklover]

Must be some sort of galvanic corrosion reaction or something. Like using aluminum and copper together, that's a big

Having somewhat of an electrical background I understand that. You use Noalox if wiring a copper device to aluminum wiring or use an alumicon (sp?) which has the noalox in it but, (as I said) this is the FIRST time I've even seen this as an option for u-joints and certain drive shafts.

In all fairness it could have always been there and no one asks and I didn't notice.

 

[tjoyce81]

Just saw this post. YES, aluminum drive shaft u-joints should have the coating on them - and they are more expensive.
Galvanic corrosion will happen if you use an un-coated u-joint. This has been around since aluminum shafts have been.
Also, never heat an aluminum drive shaft to get the u-joint out...You'll be sorry if you do.

 

[bubbatrucklover]

Just saw this post. YES, aluminum drive shaft u-joints should have the coating on them - and they are more expensive.
Galvanic corrosion will happen if you use an un-coated u-joint. This has been around since aluminum shafts have been.
Also, never heat an aluminum drive shaft to get the u-joint out...You'll be sorry if you do.

Thanks for the insight. Had no intention of heating the drive shaft BUT, THANK YOU for PRE warning SHOULD the urge strike me.