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What's the Largest External Trans Cooler?

Discussion in 'Mechanic's Corner' started by bubbatrucklover, Jun 4, 2019.

  1. bubbatrucklover

    bubbatrucklover Heavy Metal Red Neck

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    I'm looking for the largest (or larger then my factory '02 Silverado) external tans cooler that I can mount in the factory location and use the quick connects. More power to those that have the aftermarket add on that you cut the factory lines and hose clamp rubber lines to it and it works fine and you don't mind the looks.

    I will say I didn't do my due diligence by measuring my current one recently and then researching options from there. Say from a 2500 HD or newer year etc. I just thought someone might know having gone this route before. Beings how this is my umpteenth trans :suicide: (long story semi unrelated to the cooler issue) I want over kill. :gunguy:

    I have an aftermarket temp gauge (I might go Denali dash cluster down the road but I already invested in the A-pillar tri gauge set up and gauges) and a slim electric fan. I was hoping to double the width (or close to) and add a few inches to the height. (insert NSFW reference here_____. :crackup:)

    I will also be contacting a local vendor where I bought my bigger radiator when I did the twin electric fan conversion.

    Thanks for any guidance. :thumbs:
     
  2. drperry

    drperry Fox 1! Fox 2! Fox 3!

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    I think this is the one I ran inline on my 2007 half-ton... I just cut the lines, flared them, and attached the hoses with hose clamps... I zip tied it in to the factory cooler, lol.

    Dropped my transmission temps from 210*F to 185 - 190*F

    That was towing 10k on a 4L65/70, lol

    https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/oil_and_transmission_coolers/supercoolers/parts/70268

    The OEM transmission cooler on my GMT900, was the same size as the cooler on the GMT900 6.0 2500/3500... Not sure if the GMT800s ran the same.

    Unless you find a truck specific kit (most are universal), you'll have to source your own quick connects and get them crimped on the hoses.


    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
     
  3. Black02Silverado

    Black02Silverado Sponsor

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    Maybe find one from a 2500/3500 and see if it fits. Might be larger and work better and would mount the same I would think.
     
  4. bubbatrucklover

    bubbatrucklover Heavy Metal Red Neck

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    I appreciate that and the results you got. :cheers:

    I'm trying to avoid going that route but, will if need be. That's a nice drop in temp. :thumbs:
     
  5. bubbatrucklover

    bubbatrucklover Heavy Metal Red Neck

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    Thanks Black Silvy. :thumbs: That's what I was hoping too. I need to measure my current (as said) and check against the others.
     
  6. Kennyray

    Kennyray No Whiners, Violaters will be bitched slapped.

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    I think you are going to have go to the aftermarket. I looked on RockAuto and the 1500 and 3500 take the same cooler.
     
  7. txab

    txab Don't get stuck on stupid!

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    There is a cooler for the 5 speed, that looks like it will work. It is slightly larger. A bit pricey. Hayden has 689 with flare fittings. You could make hard adapters for it, go from flare to the quick connects. I think you can even remove the flare fitting and replace it with a quick disconnect fitting. We just use the flare as is since we replace all our lines with our own from the trans forward on all trucks, including engine oil cooler lines

    The disconnects can leak as well, they are not the end all, be all
     
  8. bubbatrucklover

    bubbatrucklover Heavy Metal Red Neck

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    Thanks Kenny. That was the first place I was going to re look once I measured mine. :cheers:
     
  9. bubbatrucklover

    bubbatrucklover Heavy Metal Red Neck

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    Thanks. :thumbs: Where did you look for the 5 speed one? Also if the Hayden's part/model # is 689 that seemed fairly cheap on Amazon. I'm not thinking the quick connects are 100% I know the O ring can cause a leak.

    I just am trying to avoid cutting my lines. I'm superstitious in that I had a hard line problem where it was rubbing due to the suspension and us not securing it PROPERLY. It started to rub and we caught it before it rubbed through. We used a pipe cutter to get rid of the section and went to a parts store and bought a piece of rubber trans line. It was a 2" piece we cut out so we slid on about 4" in each direction past the ends and double hose clamped. A short time later haulin' a$$ down the interstate the hose BURST in the middle (which I discovered to late :facepalm:). I drove further then I should have but, by that time I fried my trans. :frustration: Oh yeah HAD I went to GM and bought the hardlines to replace it with it would have been LESS then $40.:frustration:

    I don't know if it was a fault in the hose or the counter person sold me the WRONG kind. etc. I could be 1 in a 1,000 this has happened to. I just don't want to be the 2nd also.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2019
  10. txab

    txab Don't get stuck on stupid!

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    Rockauto listed a 5 speed model that specs showed it was larger. It was a couple of hundred dollars though, iirc. As long as you get hydraulic replacement hose it won't burst, you just need to make sure it can't slip off the cut tube. I've seen people just push the rubber hose over the end of the male end of the pipe that would go into the disconnect and then clamp it. No way it would slip off that way.

    Back to the Hayden unit I referenced, I don't know if they make a disconnect fitting with female threads, which is what would be required on the Hayden unit. We've never done it as I noted because we just construct a total new set of lines in our shop, so as to avoid the leaking lines GM has installed over the years, especially recently. If there is a proper fitting and the flares can be removed then it should be almost direct fit. I know Hayden and others sell a short piece of metal tube with the male barb on it that fits the female disconnect fitting. You could flare the other end, after placing the threaded "nut" on the tube.

    Just thinking about this, you could cut the male disconnect end then flare it and go directly to the Hayden unit, providing you have enough tube after the 90 degree bend in the line to allow the nut to be placed and then flared.


    Anyway, some ideas for ya.
     
    Black02Silverado likes this.

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