Draenor
KILL ALL HUMANS!!!!
Yes, I took the plunge. I been getting off work later and later, using my lights more and more. I wanted to see what all the hoopla is about and wanted better lighting. I purchased some HIDs from DDM Tuning, based off word of mouth on this site. I ordered the lows and fogs in 4500K @35W and the highs in5000K @55W, trying to keep the same color. I did not want any blue, red, green, purple, etc. lights. So….let the write up begin.
Well….Before we begin, the GMC headlights operate on reversed polarity. At first, I wanted to test them to see if they worked before I got too far into this. All worked but 2 ballast. I got a little perturbed about this, as I heard good things about this company. In my troubleshooting, I grabbed the same one, which didn’t work before and now worked, but another functional one which now didn’t work. While playing around with them I noticed I can attach the wiring in two directions. Wa-la….all working and then this was later verified on DDM website.
The goods….
First remove the top cover. Use a screwdriver or pliers being careful not to break the push pins. I did have a tool for these, but I must of lost it in the ex snafu.
Next, pull the headlight rods and unclip the bulb connectors.
Then the marker/signal light housings.
Then the grill unclips from the support and fenders. Be careful not to crack the plastic or break the clips. A little prying with a screwdriver helps.
Using a screwdriver to pry the clips.
\
The two clips are hidden on the fender in the wheel well…and some dirt.
All out the way..
The hardest part is that there are no instructions, no markings on the boxes of what bulbs. The bulbs do have a small imprint on the front of the connectors indicating the type. Since I am using 9005/9006/H3 bulbs, it was easy to figure out where they go. I know they are all pretty much the same bulb. Now if you are using the same type with different temperatures, I guess its trial and error. Next difficult part was where to put the ballast and the wiring would still fit. These came with some sort of extra harness, which I removed and used as wiring extensions. I put them on part of the air dam behind the grill. This should still give me room for an intercooler
and a Tru-cool 40K cooler. Still was and will be a PITA when the headlights need to be removed. There is little cable length from the ballast to the bulbs. I wasn’t about to mess with these plus it voids the warranty.
Before
After
I got bored and did the all high mod. This is for a 04 to an 07. Maybe the 03, the 99 to 02 are wired different and this will not work.
I used part number 1N4004 1 Amp diodes. I solder them all together as well as solder on some wire extensions to make it easier to wrap the pins and route the diodes. I also heat shrinked and taped up what I could.
Go from the #85 pin of the high relay to the #85 pins of the lows, fogs, and DRLs relays. The cathode or the side with the strip points towards the high relays.
Overall, not impressed. Unless all the bulbs sent are the same temperature, they all look the same. All have a blue tint which is not what I wanted. I haven't done much night road testing yet. So far for brightness, I'm on the wall with it. I can barely tell the difference unless I am all on.
Well….Before we begin, the GMC headlights operate on reversed polarity. At first, I wanted to test them to see if they worked before I got too far into this. All worked but 2 ballast. I got a little perturbed about this, as I heard good things about this company. In my troubleshooting, I grabbed the same one, which didn’t work before and now worked, but another functional one which now didn’t work. While playing around with them I noticed I can attach the wiring in two directions. Wa-la….all working and then this was later verified on DDM website.
The goods….
First remove the top cover. Use a screwdriver or pliers being careful not to break the push pins. I did have a tool for these, but I must of lost it in the ex snafu.
Next, pull the headlight rods and unclip the bulb connectors.
Then the marker/signal light housings.
Then the grill unclips from the support and fenders. Be careful not to crack the plastic or break the clips. A little prying with a screwdriver helps.
Using a screwdriver to pry the clips.
The two clips are hidden on the fender in the wheel well…and some dirt.
All out the way..
The hardest part is that there are no instructions, no markings on the boxes of what bulbs. The bulbs do have a small imprint on the front of the connectors indicating the type. Since I am using 9005/9006/H3 bulbs, it was easy to figure out where they go. I know they are all pretty much the same bulb. Now if you are using the same type with different temperatures, I guess its trial and error. Next difficult part was where to put the ballast and the wiring would still fit. These came with some sort of extra harness, which I removed and used as wiring extensions. I put them on part of the air dam behind the grill. This should still give me room for an intercooler
and a Tru-cool 40K cooler. Still was and will be a PITA when the headlights need to be removed. There is little cable length from the ballast to the bulbs. I wasn’t about to mess with these plus it voids the warranty.
Before
After
I got bored and did the all high mod. This is for a 04 to an 07. Maybe the 03, the 99 to 02 are wired different and this will not work.
I used part number 1N4004 1 Amp diodes. I solder them all together as well as solder on some wire extensions to make it easier to wrap the pins and route the diodes. I also heat shrinked and taped up what I could.
Go from the #85 pin of the high relay to the #85 pins of the lows, fogs, and DRLs relays. The cathode or the side with the strip points towards the high relays.
Overall, not impressed. Unless all the bulbs sent are the same temperature, they all look the same. All have a blue tint which is not what I wanted. I haven't done much night road testing yet. So far for brightness, I'm on the wall with it. I can barely tell the difference unless I am all on.
Should be able to see everything now.
