How To Bedline Rocker Panels** UPDATED Post 1**


Still Here Because I'm Not There
Sep 25, 2009
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Ft Sumner, NM
Bedlining Rocker Panels – How To:

As promised, I am editing this post to give more of a How-To for Do-It-Yourself Bedlining of Rocker Panels (and fenders if applicable). I got most of my inspiration from a thread on Club Frontier:

The whole reason I was doing this project is because this pickup seems to have really soft paint, and the fenders and rockers were full of rock chips. The clearcoat was also lifting up on the front fender.



First, I purchased the materials:

1 DupliColor Bed Armor with Kevlar Liner Kit (includes 1 gallon of material, stippled roller and tray, 2” brush, Scotch-Brite pad, and instructions) – Cost = $99

2 Rolls High Adhesion Automotive Painters Tape (I used 3/4” and 1 1/2”) – Cost = $10

1 Package 320 grit Sandpaper – Cost = $5

Total cost with tax was just under $125. I only used about 1/3rd of the material and I did 3 coats on mine instead of the recommended 2 coats, so I would guess that the total cost of just this project is less than $50.


Second, I washed the truck to make sure I started with a clean “canvas”. I also removed the molded mud flaps to make sure it was clean there as well.

Next, I started taping off the area I wanted to coat. I removed the rear bumper shell while I was taping so that I could coat the area covered by it on the rear quarter panels. I also made sure the plastic fender liners in the front fenders were pushed back out of the way.

I used the 3/4” tape so I could get the curves smoother and make fine adjustments as necessary. There is a body line down the door on this pickup, so I used the top of it to set my level. There is also a pronounced body line up and over the fenders, so I used that to set the line over the wheel wells. The only place that I had to “wing-it” was behind the rear wheels, where there was no body line to follow. For this area, I ran a string line down the body line on the doors and when it was straight, I marked the area behind the rear wheel well. With the line run straight, it was almost even with the bottom of the tailgate, so I made a slight adjustment to get the line to end up there so it would look more proportional. I did the same thing on both sides, then measured to make sure the lines were even behind the wheels and at the back corner of the quarter panel.

Once I had all the lines where I wanted them, I added a strip of the 1 1/2” tape above the 3/4” with just a slight overlap. I then added a second layer of tape right along the edge of the "break" line so that I could remove one layer after the first coat was applied. I ended up not removing any tape until everything was dry, but I do think that having 2 layers made it easier to remove. Since the liner material was somewhat "rubbery" the top layer of tape had a tendancy to tear, so I had a back-up layer below it to pull and keep the lines clean. I also taped inside the door jams on the natural “break” so that I could have a smooth line there as well.


Next, I started sanding using the 320 grit sandpaper. I started out using a small hand-held electric sander, but I thought it was a little too aggressive, so I hand sanded the whole area where I wanted to apply the Bed Armor.



Once all the sanding was done, I wiped down the whole area using a damp rag to remove all the sanding dust. I had to rinse the rag often and go back over the area several times to get all the dust off.

Then, following the directions provided, I wiped the area down again with a degreaser and wax remover (I already had some, so I didn’t purchase this) to make sure I had a good surface to apply the product to.

I also used some old blankets and table cloths to cover the wheels/tires. If you are worried about drops on the floor of your garage or driveway, be sure to cover it up too, because this stuff will make a mess when you start applying it. I would also recommend long sleeves and maybe gloves since it ends up all over you as well. This product is water soluble, so you can wash it off before it sets up, but it is a total PITA to get off by the time you are done.


I was then ready to start the first coat. When I opened the can, most of the “texture” was lumped together in the bottom, and it took lots of stirring to get it broken up and mixed evenly. Once it was ready, I used the provided roller for most of the application, but where the roller wouldn’t reach, I used the provided brush. In the areas I had to use the brush, I used a dabbing motion so that the texture matched the roller, rather than using a brushing motion which left the surface way too smooth.

I started by coating the inside of the bumper shell since I had it off so that I could get a feeling for how the material applied. I figured this way, I could make my mistakes where they wouldn't be seen, and the inside of the bumper would be protected when it gets packed full of mud and not cleaned out for a while. I had rinsed it and given it a light sanding too prior to starting the application. Once I moved on to the pickup, I used the roller and went both up and down, then back and forth to even out the texture. The first coat covered, but the texture wasn’t real even.

Inside Rear Bumper Shell (I think this was after the 2nd coat):

Started first coat on pickup:


First coat on pickup done:


Close-up of texture/coverage of first coat:


The directions said to wait about an hour to apply another coat, and it took me right at an hour to get the whole first coat done. So, as soon as I finished the first coat, I started right in on the second coat. The directions also said to use two coats, but once I got done with the second coat (also right at an hour), I had plenty of material left over and the texture still wasn’t totally even, so I did a third coat. I was working by myself, and was trying to keep everything going, so I didn’t get pictures of the second coat. When the third coat was done, I was satisfied with the thickness and texture of the product, so I called it good.

Third coat done:


Close-up of texture of third coat:


The directions said to wait two hours to remove the tape, but we had dinner at the in-laws, so it was closer to four hours before I got back to take the tape off. It still removed easily, and I really think that the product may have been too “gooey” if I had tried to remove the tape much earlier. In order to get a smooth "break" at the line, I pulled the tape up and basically perpendicular to the line. This worked pretty good, other than the tape trying to tear on occasion. When it did, I had the second layer to get it started again. Tape removed:



Finished product:


Overall, this project was pretty easy to do, it just took lots of prep and care in the application. I will keep you posted on how this product (Bed Armor) holds up over time, but as of now, it looks great (or at least I think so).
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I'm too LAZY to Choose a Custom Title!!!
Lifetime Supporting Member
May 21, 2009
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United State of Texas
That factory clear didn't hold up very well did it? Keep us posted Wayne, that's a bigger appearance project than I'd be willing to tackle myself. Good luck.:cheers:


Still Here Because I'm Not There
Sep 25, 2009
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Ft Sumner, NM
sweet. should look good man but take your time.

what are you using?

Dupli-Color Bed Armor with Kevlar. It is not quite as rough as the Herculiner, and is supposed to have built in UV protection. I guess I will see.....


Chinga Tu Madre!
Aug 6, 2010
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Newcastle, OK
I'll give you one thing, you've got bigger balls than me. Good luck I'll be keeping my eyes on this thread. :lurk:


The space intentionally left blank.
Jul 5, 2009
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North Texas

Man, I thought this was going to be a Q&A for Dan about when he had his done.. Boy, was I surprised when I got to the peekshurs! :lol:

Good luck, man! :cheers:

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