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GMT-400 Alternator Upgrade AD244

Discussion in 'Technical' started by nubuilder, Oct 17, 2010.

  1. nubuilder

    nubuilder Why buy new when you can restore?

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    The S10's alternator has been acting up so I'm taking the 105A alternator out of the Silverado to put in it.

    I'm putting a 145A alternator (AD244) from a NBS truck in my '98 K1500 Silverado.

    Alternator
    When I was on AutoZone's site, I selected an '03 2500HD 6.0L.
    I think, but am not sure, that this can be found in any '03-'06 Silverado, 1500 or 2500, however it is an option (in case anyone is looking in a junkyard for one).

    The serpentine belt
    I picked up a belt for the GMT-400 with the factory 140A alternator. Do not get one for a NBS truck with the 145A; that belt is 92.91in VS the 96.85in that is needed.

    In case anyone is wondering, a 140A for a GMT-400 will not directly plug into a GMT-400 / OBS that has a 105A. The electrical connector is different. (I bought the 140A first; doesn't work)

    Parts list
    alternator = Duralast Gold DLG-1923-16-4 @ AutoZone for $195
    belt = Duralast 968K6 @ AutoZone for $29

    FYI
    The alternator needed to be specially ordered in my case. So I had to pay for it in advance. Just in case you are planning on doing this yourself and want to get it done on a specific day.


    Hopefully I'll have this in by the weekend to let you know how it fits and works.
     
  2. nubuilder

    nubuilder Why buy new when you can restore?

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    Well, I got the alternator in last night. The belt is a very tight fit, however I don't think there is a way to over tighten it since the tension-er puts constant tension on it at all times. The tension-er has about 1/4" to 1/2" movement before it is fully "retracted" (not extended).

    This alternator is listed for a truck with a 145A alternator, but the specs below on the site listed it as a 130A, however it is stamped with a 150A marking.

    There was just a slight modification done to a heater core hose to keep it from contacting the alternator. This involved 4 washers and a slight twist to the locating bracket that sits just behind the upper idler pulley.

    I will post pics tomorrow as the camera I have right now isn't taking pics worth a dam right now.

    I stopped by AutoZone both before and after the alternator swap.
    The Stats:
    105A factory alternator = 90 amps
    145A for an '03 = ~190 amps
     
  3. nubuilder

    nubuilder Why buy new when you can restore?

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    Sorry for the delay.

    I ended up getting a different belt for the truck.
    Duralast 975K6 = $18.99 @ AutoZone

    This one is about 18mm longer than the one I previously had. I'm hoping that by not having the tensioner quite so compressed (the spring inside of it that is) that the belt won't be so tight.

    So anyways, here are some pics!

    105A stock
    [​IMG]


    Note the clearance between the heater hose and the alternator

    [​IMG]


    Comparisons of the two
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Here you can see the difference in the connection locations.

    [​IMG]


    145A
    [​IMG]


    I put 4 washers under this bracket to lift up the hose so it wouldn't rub on one of the bolts holding the alternator's case together.

    [​IMG]


    I had to put a slight twist on the heater hose running along side the alternator to have clearance. The hose is not stressed by any means.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    If you look past the throttle cables, you can see the clearance the heater hose has running behind the alternator.

    [​IMG]


    Final Cost:
    $18.99 for the belt
    $194.99 for the alternator

    $213.98 (plus tax of course)
     
  4. batman

    batman Guest

    it looks as though at some point and time batery acid may have gotten on the old one..i had that happen to me once..so thats why i say that...but the new one looks great man!
     
  5. Bernie

    Bernie Guest

    Looks a lot like the upgrade I did on my own. :)

    Nice work!
     
  6. Mcdiver

    Mcdiver I'm crazy, but it's paid for!!

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    nice, when I did the 383, I upgraded, but I got a powermaster that came with a plug and spliced it into the harness. The alt was 160 amp, and fit right in.
     
  7. nubuilder

    nubuilder Why buy new when you can restore?

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    Actually, the old one was the one I took out of the S10 (I put the 105A from the Silvy in the S10). I think it looks so bad from 173k miles and also being much lower to the ground which means road spray/salt could get at it a lot easier. I don't think anything was spilt on it; just age.

    Thanks Bernie! I know I might not need all the power all the time, but its is comforting to know that it will always keep up.

    Cool.

    I was actually surprised when AutoZone's tester said it was putting out 190 amps. Being rated at 140, I was expecting 150 tops.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2010
  8. Alljackedup408

    Alljackedup408 Shut Up Stupid

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    Doing this tonight or tomorrow I think!

    Nice write up.
     
  9. Stubbs

    Stubbs I'm NEW... What now?

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    1998 K1500

    Hey All,

    So I specifically signed up for this form because of this how-to. First and foremost I want to thank nubuilder for his well written How-to, the boat-load of pictures, and the updates on everything. If every how-to on the internet were like this, it would be a step in the right direction.

    Secondly, I wanted to make note for anyone wanting to try this. I did this swap last weekend on my 1998 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 4x4 with the 5.7L and it went flawlessly. I didn't even have to put any spacer under the bracket that holds the heater hose.

    Zero clearance issues.

    The plug fit perfectly.

    Stock alternator for my truck was the 105 amp 4-pin with internal fan.

    I went with the DL 1923-16-4 for $140 with core ($167 without)

    Belt = Duralast 975K6 ($19)

    Enjoying the extra amperage now and looking forward to the durability of the ADD244 series alternators.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. dietz4ibanez

    dietz4ibanez Slowly going the way of the Buffalo

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    Nice! Welcome to the site!
     

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