Longshot270
I'm too COOL (lazy) to Choose a Custom Title!!!
This was what I built first which works great if you are only hauling some light weight stuff once in a while.
I took two foam blocks from a canoe car top kit from Academy, ran a piece of 3/4" electrical conduit and ran a ratchet through the middle and ran it through the cab. I used a piece of water hose around the rope to keep the pipe from cutting it, worked very well. I also tied some loops to act as strap anchors and wrapped them in electrical tape to protect them from rubbing on the roof.
In the back I bolted two 4 foot boards to to the bed in front of the tailgate and put a cross board to make a shelf.
Threw the kayak up there and went to one of the rough river access areas to test it out.
It worked great except that if I left the kayak up there the lid for the storage compartment was getting caved in and the foam blocks were compressing.
Having the kayak up top was great because I could throw gear in the bed and close the tailgate. No more worrying about stuff blowing out (like the paddles I lost on my way back from New Braunfels) or people hitting the kayaks because they are morons.
It worked so well I went and spent $150 on 1/2 of a Yakima roof bar set. I wasn't a fan of the clamp but I didn't want to drill into the roof. Whenever I got to installing it I realized I could rearrange the trim so that it would still make a seal.
This morning I modified the back portion for two reasons, 1) to keep from crushing the storage compartment lid and 2) reduce the angle from raising the end over the cab because it was catching too much air on the highway.
Overall it still has more drag the the first setup, but now I can carry two kayaks or any long, heavy object without worrying about damaging the roof.
The next mods will be locks so that the bar can't get stolen, paint the wood black (or weld a new one) and add some fishing rod holders.
I took two foam blocks from a canoe car top kit from Academy, ran a piece of 3/4" electrical conduit and ran a ratchet through the middle and ran it through the cab. I used a piece of water hose around the rope to keep the pipe from cutting it, worked very well. I also tied some loops to act as strap anchors and wrapped them in electrical tape to protect them from rubbing on the roof.
In the back I bolted two 4 foot boards to to the bed in front of the tailgate and put a cross board to make a shelf.
Threw the kayak up there and went to one of the rough river access areas to test it out.
It worked great except that if I left the kayak up there the lid for the storage compartment was getting caved in and the foam blocks were compressing.
Having the kayak up top was great because I could throw gear in the bed and close the tailgate. No more worrying about stuff blowing out (like the paddles I lost on my way back from New Braunfels) or people hitting the kayaks because they are morons.
It worked so well I went and spent $150 on 1/2 of a Yakima roof bar set. I wasn't a fan of the clamp but I didn't want to drill into the roof. Whenever I got to installing it I realized I could rearrange the trim so that it would still make a seal.
This morning I modified the back portion for two reasons, 1) to keep from crushing the storage compartment lid and 2) reduce the angle from raising the end over the cab because it was catching too much air on the highway.
Overall it still has more drag the the first setup, but now I can carry two kayaks or any long, heavy object without worrying about damaging the roof.
The next mods will be locks so that the bar can't get stolen, paint the wood black (or weld a new one) and add some fishing rod holders.