I will try to cover the step needed to replace the front wheel bearing ( Hub Assembly) on a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado Z71, 1500 series. I have had the code C0245 pop up just recently but attributed it to the new gear change I just made, I have read that this code can set when wheel bearings are going bad. So I will have to drive it before I can prove this rumor and I will update this post with the results.
I was jacking up the truck to pull the front differential and I thought the left front wheel felt a little sloppy. Sure enough when compared to the right side it had a lot more play rocking back and forth. So I hopped in the truck and went down to NAPA and bought 2 new hub assemblies ($130 each) to go ahead and replace both. The truck has 111,000 miles on it so part of this is preventative maintenance. But the left side needed changing.
You will need some common hand tools, a jack and preferably jack stands. The one socket that you will need is a 36mm 1/2" drive for the axle stub nut.
To start loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are going to remove. Then jack up and support the truck. Remove the Lug nuts and remove the wheel.
Remove the clips for the wheel speed sensor cable and disconnect the cable completely.
Remove the bolt securing the brake line bracket.
Remove the brake caliper bolts (2). Have some wire or rope handy and tie the caliper off from the shock bolt. You don't want to hang the caliper by the brake line since it could break.
Remove the Torx headed screw from the rotor and remove the rotor from the hub. Your new hubs may not be drilled and tapped to re-use this bolt, but it's not an important part so don't worry about it.
Using a small chisel or flat blade screw driver, get under the lip of the dust cap and get it started off. Once it gets a little opening you can pry it off by going around the cap prying a little at a time until it comes off. Don't ruin the cap you will need to re-use it for the new hub assembly.
The axle shaft nut will now be exposed. Using a pry bar, wedge it between the wheel studs and the ground. Get a good 1/2" breaker bar and the 36mm socket and remove the axle shaft nut. This nut has been torqued to 155 ft. lbs. so it will be tough to get loose. It is also a self locking style nut and will be stiff almost the entire way off.
Put the nut and the large steel washer aside since you will be re-using it.
Using a dead blow hammer or a piece of wood and a hammer, tap the end of the axle shaft and verify free movement. The shaft should move in and out freely but if your shaft and hub assemble have rusted it may need the hammer treatment. Using a 15mm wrench loosen the 3 bolts securing the hub and dust shield in place. These bolts are going to be very tight so use a good quality wrench preferably a six point wrench for loosening them.
Remove the hub assembly from the spindle and set aside.
Remove the dust shield and set aside.
Clean and prep the splines of the axle shaft, the inner bore of the spindle and the new hub assembly. Smear a little grease on the splines of the axle shaft before assembly.
Tighten the 3 hub mounting bolts evenly and make sure they are very tight. Torque spec is 133 ft. lbs., but you will not be able to get a socket on the upper bolt due to the ball joint bolt being in the way. So I elected to tighten them all by hand using my best judgement on torque.
Install the thick steel washer and nut, using the pry bar and breaker bar method used for removal tighten the axle shaft nut up. Torque to 155 ft. lbs.** Make sure when using the prybar that you place it right up against the flange of the hub. This will keep you from bending the wheel studs.**
Install the dust shield. If it is loose then take a ball peen hammer and gently tap the inside of the thing to make the lip a little larger so it grabs the hub better. You can use a little silicone on it too if you like. Get the cap started and use a punch around the lip to knock it back into place. Don't hit it in the center with a hammer to get it in, it will just smash up and look like crap when you're done.
Put the rotor back on, the hubs I got were not drilled and tapped for the little Torx head screw. So I left it off, it won't hurt anything if you do the same.
Put your brake caliper back in place and bolt it up, Take care to not kink the brake line. Caliper bolts are supposed to be torqued to 221 ft. lbs., just make sure they are good and tight. Most cheap torque wrenches only go up to 150 ft. lbs.
Route the new wheel speed sensor cable and reconnect it.
Give all of your work another look to make sure all is in good order. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lugs. Lower the truck back down and torque the lug nuts down. You are now ready for a test drive.
I was jacking up the truck to pull the front differential and I thought the left front wheel felt a little sloppy. Sure enough when compared to the right side it had a lot more play rocking back and forth. So I hopped in the truck and went down to NAPA and bought 2 new hub assemblies ($130 each) to go ahead and replace both. The truck has 111,000 miles on it so part of this is preventative maintenance. But the left side needed changing.
You will need some common hand tools, a jack and preferably jack stands. The one socket that you will need is a 36mm 1/2" drive for the axle stub nut.
To start loosen the lug nuts on the wheel you are going to remove. Then jack up and support the truck. Remove the Lug nuts and remove the wheel.
Remove the clips for the wheel speed sensor cable and disconnect the cable completely.
Remove the bolt securing the brake line bracket.
Remove the brake caliper bolts (2). Have some wire or rope handy and tie the caliper off from the shock bolt. You don't want to hang the caliper by the brake line since it could break.
Remove the Torx headed screw from the rotor and remove the rotor from the hub. Your new hubs may not be drilled and tapped to re-use this bolt, but it's not an important part so don't worry about it.
Using a small chisel or flat blade screw driver, get under the lip of the dust cap and get it started off. Once it gets a little opening you can pry it off by going around the cap prying a little at a time until it comes off. Don't ruin the cap you will need to re-use it for the new hub assembly.
The axle shaft nut will now be exposed. Using a pry bar, wedge it between the wheel studs and the ground. Get a good 1/2" breaker bar and the 36mm socket and remove the axle shaft nut. This nut has been torqued to 155 ft. lbs. so it will be tough to get loose. It is also a self locking style nut and will be stiff almost the entire way off.
Put the nut and the large steel washer aside since you will be re-using it.
Using a dead blow hammer or a piece of wood and a hammer, tap the end of the axle shaft and verify free movement. The shaft should move in and out freely but if your shaft and hub assemble have rusted it may need the hammer treatment. Using a 15mm wrench loosen the 3 bolts securing the hub and dust shield in place. These bolts are going to be very tight so use a good quality wrench preferably a six point wrench for loosening them.
Remove the hub assembly from the spindle and set aside.
Remove the dust shield and set aside.
Clean and prep the splines of the axle shaft, the inner bore of the spindle and the new hub assembly. Smear a little grease on the splines of the axle shaft before assembly.
Tighten the 3 hub mounting bolts evenly and make sure they are very tight. Torque spec is 133 ft. lbs., but you will not be able to get a socket on the upper bolt due to the ball joint bolt being in the way. So I elected to tighten them all by hand using my best judgement on torque.
Install the thick steel washer and nut, using the pry bar and breaker bar method used for removal tighten the axle shaft nut up. Torque to 155 ft. lbs.** Make sure when using the prybar that you place it right up against the flange of the hub. This will keep you from bending the wheel studs.**
Install the dust shield. If it is loose then take a ball peen hammer and gently tap the inside of the thing to make the lip a little larger so it grabs the hub better. You can use a little silicone on it too if you like. Get the cap started and use a punch around the lip to knock it back into place. Don't hit it in the center with a hammer to get it in, it will just smash up and look like crap when you're done.
Put the rotor back on, the hubs I got were not drilled and tapped for the little Torx head screw. So I left it off, it won't hurt anything if you do the same.
Put your brake caliper back in place and bolt it up, Take care to not kink the brake line. Caliper bolts are supposed to be torqued to 221 ft. lbs., just make sure they are good and tight. Most cheap torque wrenches only go up to 150 ft. lbs.
Route the new wheel speed sensor cable and reconnect it.
Give all of your work another look to make sure all is in good order. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lugs. Lower the truck back down and torque the lug nuts down. You are now ready for a test drive.
