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That snow gets deeper every time you tell this story... :lol:

Either the frame is bent or one of the bed or cab mounts in bad. Look at how the bed lines up on the driver's side. Also, 4 wheel drum brakes are a PITA. Edit: Just realized those pics are 7 years old. What does it look like now?

Dude? It's a 6 cylinder with a manual gearbox. I'm surprised it has the power to turn those 37's. Then again, those stacks probably add 100 hp. :jester:

Ya think? :lol: Still worth looking at to find out why. Might be "high" (200k+) mileage is driving the price down and the owner not realizing those can get 500k with regular maint.

If it were me I'd be hauling ass to go look at that Dodge 2500. An '06 4x4 with the 5.9 Cummins in decent shape is in the high $19k - low $20k range according to KBB, and the dude is asking $7k

Hey, look at that, a nicely restored Ford Nite, not far from where you're at Doug... 92 F150 NITE Edition

Hey Doug, how about one of these? 1953 Willy's 4 x 4 Pickup 1947 Hudson Commodore Eight

And more: Nice lifted f150 2005 Chevy Tahoe 4x4

More: Jeep Cherokee 4 door 04'Tacoma TRD off road 4x4 Crew Cab automatic trades considered 2005 Ford F-150 xlt 4x4 pickup truck

Here ya go Doug. Jump on it while you can. Not gonna find much better than this for towing that boat, and I even tried to find one nearby to you: Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins

How the hell do you blow an engine driving in snow? Nevermind, I probably don't want to know...

Hell, most of what I listed meets those requirements. :jester:

Maybe this? 1929 Ford Woody | eBay

You haven't said a budget except < $20k so... M725 1967 Kaiser Jeep 1 1 4 Ton | eBay Gama Goat | eBay 1984CHEVY Cucv Military Blazer | eBay M151 Mutt Encore | eBay Pinzgauer 712M | eBay Military 1956 Dodge M37 4x4 truck 1991 Military 6x6 Extended Cargo Van Truck 5 Ton 855...

No hope of donor parts being installed then?

I'm still leery of that meter and the readings.

I'm out of ideas for tonight. Us old farts need our rest so I'm off to bed. PM me an email address if you want and I'll email you the complete schematics.

And you pulled the fuses on the aftermarket stuff when you were testing?

How's your grounds? Especially the ground on the right rear of the block, near the starter, going from the frame to the block? Also, I just want to confirm that you don't have anything "aftermarket" (radio, lights, horns, etc.) hooked up, the underhood light is unplugged, and the ignition is...

The BAT fuse is what supplies half the instrument panel fuse box.

No, it wouldn't engage or energize until the ignition switch energized it, but it does have direct power to it.

The only thing I can see that connects to the battery that isn't fused is the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

But that's supposed to be fused. That's what the mega fuse or the fusible link is for. If you pulled the fusible link or the mega fuse (depending on which your truck has) connecting that wire should make no difference at all, it should be dead.

You're pulling the mega fuse too, or the fusible link if the truck has one?

I'm not trusting that meter of yours. Try with just the test light hooked up. Do not connect the meter. I have a funny feeling the meter is acting as a shunt. With just the test light and the fuses pulled you should have no light. If it still lights then you've got something hooked up...