IH 54 R-100 4X4

Cool, got it on ..
Just a wee bit of trimming on the pan ..



And, was it worth all the trouble to install these bad-boys .. ??

The GM factory strut rods (also called case-to-engine struts) are designed to provide structural reinforcement between the engine block and the transmission bellhousing.

* Primary Purpose & Function
Reduce Bellhousing Flex: Their main job is to limit the amount of flex and stress placed on an aluminum bellhousing, which can be prone to cracking under heavy loads.

Load Distribution: By triangulating the connection, they take some of the load off the main bellhousing bolts during heavy bouncing or high-torque conditions.

Drivetrain Stability: They help stabilize the engine and transmission assembly, especially in vehicles that see rough roads or off-road use, where the distance between engine and transmission mounts might otherwise allow for excessive movement.

* Are They Necessary?
Whether you should keep them typically depends on your setup:
Highly Recommended: For stock configurations with aluminum bellhousings, especially in trucks or vehicles used for towing and off-roading. Omitting them can lead to a cracked bellhousing over time.
Optional: Many enthusiasts remove them when upgrading to a steel "blowproof" bellhousing or a heavier cast iron unit, as these materials are much stronger and less prone to fatigue cracking.

* Replacement Parts: If yours are missing, GM Genuine Parts and AC/Delco offer original equipment replacements that maintain the factory-specified fit and vibration reduction.

' .. Maybe .. '
"IF" they help me from breaking very expensive parts from playing hard, dang straight it was worth it !!

Here's another item that will help with not breaking shi errr stuff ..



Those are on the wish list at the moment ..
Will be nailing them on in the not so far future ..



These mods may be overkill ??
But with having 500+ horse power on tap just might come in handy .

Sure won't hurt a thing having them onboard ..
( Well ... Perhaps my budget )

Jesse S said:

On my truck's motor, got a bit of fab work to do on the Mercruiser aluminum boat motor oil pan ..

View attachment 9376

View attachment 9377

These bad boys adds beef, keeps things from breaking ..

Going to require modification to the boat pan for needed room ...

View attachment 9378

The steel factory pan has a flat area stamped on the side for allowing room for the rod ..

I got a idea on how to make this happen on the aluminum pan ...

Click to expand...

That should definitely beef it up. I've seen some cracked bell housings from being to damn hard on the vehicle. Some people think more power just comes from beefing up the engine. I guess they don't realize that you need to beef up more components to handle the power.

More beef that may help from keeping things from breaking ...



Starter support bracket was added to the soup ...

Was a bit of a job cause of the 1990 big block having a 1/2" threaded hole .. Should had been a 5/16" there ?



Made up a insert from a lugnut stud that converted the hole to what was needed ..

While it is common for mechanics to leave them off, a GM starter support bracket is highly necessary for long-term reliability. Its primary job is to provide a third mounting point that stabilizes the starter against the massive torque it generates when engaging the flywheel.

Why You Should Use It ....
Prevents Block Damage: Without the bracket, the starter can "wiggle" under high torque. This stress is transferred entirely to the two main mounting bolts, which can eventually snap or, worse, crack the engine block mounting ear....

Protects the Starter Housing: The bracket reduces the leverage placed on the aluminum starter nose cone. Excessive movement often leads to the housing cracking or breaking entirely.

Maintains Alignment: It ensures the starter gear stays perfectly aligned with the flexplate or flywheel teeth, preventing grinding or premature wear on the ring gear.

Provides Grounding: In some older applications, the metal brace serves as a secondary or improved electrical ground path for the starter motor.

When It Is "Optional"
Modern Mini Starters: Many newer, permanent-magnet gear-reduction (PMGR) starters are significantly smaller and lighter than the old "direct-drive" units. Because they produce less torsional kick and weigh less, they often do not require a rear support brace.
Temporary Fixes: If you are in an emergency, the starter will function without it, but you risk shearing a bolt or damaging the block over time.

If you have a traditional heavy-duty GM starter, especially on high-compression engines like the 6.2L or 6.5L diesel or big-block Chevys, do not skip this part.

Most likely it's overkill .... But it's a dang good place for some 'Overkill' ..

Dang ...
It's starting to look like a engine !



Been a long, long Journey .. I'm here to tell ya !

Jesse S said:

Dang ...
It's starting to look like a engine !

View attachment 9385

Been a long, long Journey .. I'm here to tell ya !

Click to expand...

It's been an impressive journey for us viewers.

Checking in to see if you are OK. It's been a couple of weeks since you posted anything on the build.

Thanks for thinking about me

I'm doing okay, arthritis been causing a bit grief, but I'm dealing with it ..
Working on making some room in the shop around the truck, wanting to do some bodywork on the Binder so I can get color on the firewall ..




Still got the 406 mouse motor to pull .. Going to try to get somebody to help me with that .. It's pretty close to coming out ..
A lot yet to get done on the big block before it's ready to set in ..
Chipping away at it ..

It's ready to be balanced ...



The heads needs more parts in order to have them ready to bolt on ..
Just takes time and money to get done ..

Jesse S said:

Thanks for thinking about me

I'm doing okay, arthritis been causing a bit grief, but I'm dealing with it ..
Working on making some room in the shop around the truck, wanting to do some bodywork on the Binder so I can get color on the firewall ..


View attachment 9387

Still got the 406 mouse motor to pull .. Going to try to get somebody to help me with that .. It's pretty close to coming out ..
A lot yet to get done on the big block before it's ready to set in ..
Chipping away at it ..

It's ready to be balanced ...

View attachment 9388

The heads needs more parts in order to have them ready to bolt on ..
Just takes time and money to get done ..


View attachment 9389

Click to expand...

Good to see you're still here. Arthritis can sure put a damper on ones day. I deal with it constantly in my knees and right now the knuckles on my fingers are swelled to the point that it hurts to make a fist. I hope yours eases up for you.

Before the firewall sees color, had a spot of rust that needed to be fixed ..
Had to cut a panel in order to gain access for the repair ..



Wasn't a large rust spot, but in time it would had grown ..
Above photo shows a patch that I made to weld in ..



Saved the piece that was cut out to weld back in once the patch was installed ..





This is the finish, not doing a super nice job on the repair cause this panel is not seen due to it being behind the fender ..

The repair cured what little rust the truck has ...
Not all that bad for being 72 years old ..