Axle Removal With G80

As some of you know, I had a rear axle seal go bad a week ago.

Well, I finally got the axle out after some serious thinking and rethinking.

I don't have any pics right now, but once you open a G80 up, you'll know what I'm talking about.

1) First make sure your fill plug will come out before you tear into everything.
2) Then take off the cover.
3) Put the truck in Neutral and rotate a brake drum so that you can see the pinion shaft locking bolt (small black bolt, 8mm). - be careful when taking this out; I was warned that it might break, but mine didn't.
4) Put the truck in Park - this will make taking the locking bolt out easier.
5) Take out the locking bolt.
6) Put the vehicle in Neutral.
7) Now, keeping the pinion shaft in place, rotate the brake drum so that the center section rotates 180 degrees so that you can see a large metal block and so you can slide the pinion shaft out the top without hitting the housing (you have to take the pinion shaft out the opposite end of the locking bolt).
8) Before you pull out the pinion shaft, put the truck in Park.
9) Slide out the pinion shaft.
10) Once the shaft is out, it is very important that you don't rotate either axle; if you do, you'll knock the spider gears out of alignment (I haven't had a problem yet).
11) Push the axle (at the lugs) in about 1/4 to maybe 1/2 inch.
12) You'll see the C-clip (finally).
13) I suggest using a magnet to pull out the C-clip - I bought one that has a head less than 1/4 inch to fit in the small space from NAPA for $5.
14) With the C-clip out, slowly pull out the axle.


Yes the C-clip does come out without removing anything else (trust me, I spent a while trying to figure this out).

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Now some more info on my problem.

After getting the axle out, I finally saw the bearing/seal. The seal I bought at Advance Auto (that was for my truck and rear end according to the computer) didn't match what was in the axle at all. There was a number, R59047, engraved on the end of this bearing/seal assembly in the axle.

I took this number with me to a local auto supply store (they mostly supply shops, but also sell to the public) and they told me that it was a "repair" bearing. What it does is move the bearing out farther towards the end/lugs of the axle so the bearing contacts with a smoother or better spot on the axle itself. It also sticks about a little less than 1/2 inch past the axle housing itself.

So I bought a new "repair" bearing/seal assembly (damn thing was $65). I put it in the axle housing, slid the axle back in, and couldn't get the axle to go in far enough to get the C-clip back in. The culprit: the old "repair" bearing has been beat in by the backside of the axle itself. This is how the previous owner got the C-clip in the first time - by hammering on it with a sledge hammer most likely. So now I have to pull the new "repair" bearing assembly back out.

I am going to put back in a factory bearing and seal setup. If it leaks, well then I'll have to buy a new axle. A friend of mine, who has done this before, said the axle itself didn't even look that bad and couldn't figure out why they put in the "repair" bearing.

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If anyone sees any mistakes/errors/discrepancies in this write-up, PLEASE let me know and I will correct the problem.

If this is in the wrong place (moderators), please move it to where it should be.

Thanks.

All sounds about right Matt, I haven't done a G-80 but they are similar to other rears in construction.

All that work, and you still couldn't get it fixed. Dang, that sucks.

Finally done!!!


I ended up ruining the brand new $60 bearing assembly while trying to get it out. First a small piece of plastic came out that goes between the bearings (at the time I had no idea where it came from). From there, it was all down hill. The bearings started falling out. I also ended up going to AutoZone to "rent" - you buy the tool and get your money back when you return in; $58 - their bearing puller. It worked great and I had the now useless bearing housing out in a matter of minutes.

I then used the useless housing to pound the new, factory style bearing and seal back in. It worked really good (it better for being a $60 bearing seating tool).

With the factory style bearing and seal, the axle can go in WAY farther than need be. If I would have had a factory setup to start with, I would have been done in a day. Got the C-clip back in, pinion shaft, and locking bolt back in easily and quickly. Put the cover back on with a new gasket and filled it up using the fill plug.

NOTE: for anyone using the fill plug, you'll need to buy 3 quarts of fluid (it takes 2.5 anyways) because you can't get all the fluid out of the bottle by squeezing it.

I drove it 15 miles and it is parked in the driveway for now. Tomorrow I will take the tire and drum back off to see if it is leaking. Hopefully it isn't, but if it for some damn reason it is, I will be ordering a new axle ($130 shipped).


In summary, DON'T EVER USE A REPAIR BEARING!!!!! If your axle is bad, spend twice as much and fix it the right way. You'll thank yourself later.