This covers flushing the brake system on a 2002 Silverado Z71. Most systems should be similar. It is way overdue since I have never done it and the truck is 9 years old and has 89k miles on it.
Tools needed:
Pela Fluid extractor or old turkey baster
Motive Brake Bleeder
10mm box end wrench, for bleeders at each wheel
22mm impact socket for wheel lug nuts. Each vehicle may vary.
Half inch drive impact wrench or a half inch breaker bar
Vehicle lift or floor jack and four jack stands to support vehicle
Supplies:
1 liter of DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid of your choice.
Here is what I used, it is Super Blue DOT 4 fluid. Reason for using it is that it makes for easier changes. Once the fluid turns blue at the bleeder you know you have fresh fluid. Here also is the catch bottle, Motive bleeder and the Pela fluid extractor.
Now to get your vehicle up in the air and all four wheels off. I used my scissor lift and places a floor jack under it for added safety. Yes my name is on the jack stand. My dad bought them for me and he put my name on them.
Once it is up in the air go ahead and take the wheels off. Here is my tools of choice.
Now I found out the hard way after getting started that my one bleeder screw didn't want to loosen. I had to chisel it to get it loose. Needless to say I had to remove it and go by a new one. So before you get started it would be a good idea to go around to all the bleeder screws and make sure you can loosen them. Also note in the pictures to place the bleeder cap somewhere you will remember. I put the ones up front on the top ball joint zerk fitting.
Clean off your master cylinder reservoir. Don't need dirt to get into the brake system.
Now extract the old brake fluid. I used my Pela extractor but an old turkey baster. You can use the one from the kitchen, but don't let the wife find out. It would be a good idea not to try and return it. Just consider it a new tool in your tool box now.
Now fill the bleeder with fresh brake fluid. I only use 1 liter and by the time I was all done I used the entire liter. Different vehicles may vary.
Now hook up the bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure everything is tight and pump the Motive Bleeder to 15psi
Now start at the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder which is the right rear wheel and hook up the catch bottle. I got this one online with the magnet on it. It works great. Put your 10mm box end wrench on the bleeder screw and then attach the hose to the catch bottle. Then loosen the bleeder enough to let the brake fluid flow into the bottle. Once the fluid changes from nasty brown to blue, close the bleeder. Keep the catch hose and bottle higher than the bleeder screw. That way you can see if you have any air in the lines and when the air is no longer in the fluid then you know you are good.
Now move to the left rear and repeat. Keep an eye on the Motive bleeder to make sure you have enough brake fluid and the pressure stays up around 15psi. If it goes down no problem, just pump it back up.
Here is the right front wheel. You can see the dirty fluid start to flow into the bottle. You can see where I put the bleeder screw on the top ball joint zerk.
Here it is when the blue fluid started to flow into the bottle. This wheel is done.
Note how much fluid in the bottle before the fresh fluid started coming out.
OK the wife came into the garage and wanted to go to lunch. So here is my lunch break. Went to Wendy's and I had the Baconator value meal and a Frosty-Cino.
Here is my home made stand that my dad made from an old brake rotor and some pipe. I use as shown and to hold my oil drain pan under my vehicles when I use the scissor lift to change the oil.
Ok once you are all done by bleeding the R/R wheel first, then the L/R and then the R/F and then the L/F you can go ahead and let the pressure off the Motive Bleeder. As you can see in this shot the master cylinder reservoir is just below the max fill line once I released the pressure. Remove the bleeder and put the reservoir cap on and your all done.
Now to put the wheels back on and this would be a good time to rotate those tires if they need it. When you put the lug nuts back on make sure you tighten them in a star pattern as shown.
Then lower the vehicle so that the wheels have weight and go around and torque your lug nuts. Mine called for 140ftlbs. Make sure you use the star pattern again and pull on the torque wrench, not push on it. I have the break away wrench. Once you hear the click your done. No need to double click, but you can if you want.
Now put the lug nut covers back on. Just tighten them hand tight. No need to torque them.
My daughter came home from school and grabbed my camera without me knowing it and got this shot. She is a sneaky kid!
Now would be a good time to take care of your air tool. Don't forget to oil it up before you put it away.
Now put away all your tools, pour the old brake fluid back into the empty brake fluid can and dispose of properly.
Wash up, sit back and drink a cold one. Job well done!
I didn't use AMSOIL brake fluid because I already bought the Super Blue before AMSOIL came out with their brake fluid.
Tools needed:
Pela Fluid extractor or old turkey baster
Motive Brake Bleeder
10mm box end wrench, for bleeders at each wheel
22mm impact socket for wheel lug nuts. Each vehicle may vary.
Half inch drive impact wrench or a half inch breaker bar
Vehicle lift or floor jack and four jack stands to support vehicle
Supplies:
1 liter of DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid of your choice.
Here is what I used, it is Super Blue DOT 4 fluid. Reason for using it is that it makes for easier changes. Once the fluid turns blue at the bleeder you know you have fresh fluid. Here also is the catch bottle, Motive bleeder and the Pela fluid extractor.
Now to get your vehicle up in the air and all four wheels off. I used my scissor lift and places a floor jack under it for added safety. Yes my name is on the jack stand. My dad bought them for me and he put my name on them.
Once it is up in the air go ahead and take the wheels off. Here is my tools of choice.
Now I found out the hard way after getting started that my one bleeder screw didn't want to loosen. I had to chisel it to get it loose. Needless to say I had to remove it and go by a new one. So before you get started it would be a good idea to go around to all the bleeder screws and make sure you can loosen them. Also note in the pictures to place the bleeder cap somewhere you will remember. I put the ones up front on the top ball joint zerk fitting.
Clean off your master cylinder reservoir. Don't need dirt to get into the brake system.
Now extract the old brake fluid. I used my Pela extractor but an old turkey baster. You can use the one from the kitchen, but don't let the wife find out. It would be a good idea not to try and return it. Just consider it a new tool in your tool box now.
Now fill the bleeder with fresh brake fluid. I only use 1 liter and by the time I was all done I used the entire liter. Different vehicles may vary.
Now hook up the bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure everything is tight and pump the Motive Bleeder to 15psi
Now start at the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder which is the right rear wheel and hook up the catch bottle. I got this one online with the magnet on it. It works great. Put your 10mm box end wrench on the bleeder screw and then attach the hose to the catch bottle. Then loosen the bleeder enough to let the brake fluid flow into the bottle. Once the fluid changes from nasty brown to blue, close the bleeder. Keep the catch hose and bottle higher than the bleeder screw. That way you can see if you have any air in the lines and when the air is no longer in the fluid then you know you are good.
Now move to the left rear and repeat. Keep an eye on the Motive bleeder to make sure you have enough brake fluid and the pressure stays up around 15psi. If it goes down no problem, just pump it back up.
Here is the right front wheel. You can see the dirty fluid start to flow into the bottle. You can see where I put the bleeder screw on the top ball joint zerk.
Here it is when the blue fluid started to flow into the bottle. This wheel is done.
Note how much fluid in the bottle before the fresh fluid started coming out.
OK the wife came into the garage and wanted to go to lunch. So here is my lunch break. Went to Wendy's and I had the Baconator value meal and a Frosty-Cino.
Here is my home made stand that my dad made from an old brake rotor and some pipe. I use as shown and to hold my oil drain pan under my vehicles when I use the scissor lift to change the oil.
Ok once you are all done by bleeding the R/R wheel first, then the L/R and then the R/F and then the L/F you can go ahead and let the pressure off the Motive Bleeder. As you can see in this shot the master cylinder reservoir is just below the max fill line once I released the pressure. Remove the bleeder and put the reservoir cap on and your all done.
Now to put the wheels back on and this would be a good time to rotate those tires if they need it. When you put the lug nuts back on make sure you tighten them in a star pattern as shown.
Then lower the vehicle so that the wheels have weight and go around and torque your lug nuts. Mine called for 140ftlbs. Make sure you use the star pattern again and pull on the torque wrench, not push on it. I have the break away wrench. Once you hear the click your done. No need to double click, but you can if you want.
Now put the lug nut covers back on. Just tighten them hand tight. No need to torque them.
My daughter came home from school and grabbed my camera without me knowing it and got this shot. She is a sneaky kid!
Now would be a good time to take care of your air tool. Don't forget to oil it up before you put it away.
Now put away all your tools, pour the old brake fluid back into the empty brake fluid can and dispose of properly.
Wash up, sit back and drink a cold one. Job well done!
I didn't use AMSOIL brake fluid because I already bought the Super Blue before AMSOIL came out with their brake fluid.
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